Borgogno dinner

Dinner hosted by Trialto with Giacomo Borgogno's new winemaker, 23-year-old Andrea Farinetti.

This was my first experience with Barolo that had some serious bottle age. These older, traditional Borgogno Barolos are like the salted cod of wine: with the massive acidity and powerful, salty tannins, I swear I'd be able to come back to these bottles in 20 years and not much would have changed.

The 61 and 67 were surprisingly alive and fruity. But with all of them (except the 1985) the tannins and acid really smacked you in the face.

The bottom line for me is that it was a great learning experience (salty tannins? is there really such a thing?), but not a sublime or transformative one. I'll be interested to try traditional aged Barolo from another producer, but I think I can safely say that I don't have an urgent need to add any Borgogno to my cellar.

• 1982 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 87 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Muted nose. Lots of fresh cherry and strawberry, some cedar, plenty of bright acidity, saline minerality and grippy, somewhat granular tannins. Mouth puckering. A 32-year-old beast. My rank #4.

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• 1978 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 89 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Pungent aged nose of leather, tobacco, mushroom, and tar. Tart cranberry, but the fruit is fading and is being overtaken by the prominent acidity and salty minerality. The tannins are smoother and more integrated than on the 1982. My rank: #3.

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• 1961 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  At first the nose was all wet dog fur. But that dissipated and smoky fall forest floor emerged along with cedar and cherry. The fruit was still lively and bold: tart dried cherry and strawberry balanced perfectly with the same sharp acidity and aggressive tannins as the later vintages. Built for aging, this drinks more like a late 90s wine than something that’s 53 years old. I learned later that all the bottles at this tasting had been reconditioned. Regardless, this was the best bottle in the vertical. My rank: #1.

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• 1967 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 91 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Tobacco and leather nose. Less acidic than the other vintages, which let the sweetness of the fruit shine through. Nicely balanced, softer and rounder than the others, but still has grippy tannins. My rank: #2.

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• 1985 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva 85 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Served just prior to dessert. Oddly, this bottle had a honey and almond biscotti nose. Sour cherry and dried cranberry fruit jumped out along with sharp acidity. With this bottle, the tannins were soft and sweet. It felt a little unbalanced and not really cohesive: the sweet tannins fought with the acidity and tart fruit. My rank: #5.

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