A Casual Thursday in Toronto
Paese Restaurant, Toronto, ON
Tasted Thursday, March 27, 2014 by Wine Canuck with 469 views
Introduction
We gathered an eclectic group of people and wine for a thoroughly enjoyable evening. No flawed bottles, and most showed well in the 90 - 92 point range for me. Thanks to everyone for contributing.
2012 J.M. Sohler Pinot Gris Winzenberg 92 Points
France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru
A tad inaromatic as Pinot Gris can be. A little air helped, and with time a light nose of anise, honey, acacia flowers, and crushed rocks poked through. Plate is just a pinch off dry with excellent acidic balance. Finish is medium plus with quite a bit of honey lingering. A very correct and classic Alsatian, which reminded me of some of the higher quality examples I have had. Quite nice and a reasonably good buy at $30.
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1983 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc 91 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Right from the pop and pour: quite a complex, interesting nose of flint, candle wax, beeswax, motor oil, burnt paper, lemon, and machine shop. Very aged-semillion in character with aromatics that seem very in line given the (albeit limited) experiences I've had with aged semillion. Palate is still totally fresh with loads of acid. Finish is medium- in length. Nice wine and seems totally correct. The intellectual interest is high here but the hedonistic pleasure is a bit low for me.
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2007 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard 91 Points
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
And now to the opposite end of the spectrum. Hedonism in a glass; a very exuberant new world profile. On pop and pour it showed a nose of buttered popcorn, caramel sauce, vanilla crime brûlée, candied lemons soaking in syrup, ripe peach, and espresso. To my palate solidly in the modern spectrum, this is one for fans of full bore powerful oaked whites. Palate comes across with with just a pinch of vanillin oak sweetness and medium- acid. Finish carries on fairly long built on vanilla custard and caramel. Much lower intellectual interest, but the hedonism factor is high here. Disclaimer: I did smell a bit that had sat in the glass for a couple of hours and it had picked up a touch of mineral refinement, but IMO it never really lost the oak. Bigger fans of this style could easily have rated this higher.
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2008 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône La Pialade 93 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
Another great bottles of this. I've always wavered between 92 and 93 points, but on this day I have it pegged at 93. Pours extremely light with a nose loaded with cigar ash, grapefruit, light raspberries, loads of spice, incense and smoke. Palate is extremely light, with elevated tart acid, and a strong note of grapefruit and ash. Finish is a bit short and fizzles out a bit early.
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1983 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 92 Points
USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain
This pours a murky, opaque ruby with moderate bricking. Nose shows some maturity with a note of old lacquered wood, old furniture, menthol, dark cherries, plums, brown spice, cedar, iodine, ink, toast and grilled beef. More than just a passing resemblance to bordeaux, but with some unique character all it's own. Palate is fully integrated with hints if dusty tannin and apparent acid. Hints of alcohol poke through on the nose and palate (13.0% on bottle), but definitely within acceptable limits. Very nice wine. Pushing 93 points.
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1999 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Clos des Lambrays 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru
Nice aged burgundy nose. Nose shows balsamic, dark cherries, old furniture, ripe sweet raspberries, thyme, beef stock, tomato paste, and sawdust. Palate is dense with mostly dark but also some red fruit. Tannins are nicely integrating, thought this feels somewhat low in acid. This is appealing and very nice, but not exactly head turning.
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2005 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines 87 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Add this to the list of CdPs that just don't really work for me. Super dense, young, and primary. Inky, black in appearance. Nose is quite mute with some licorice, and a fair bit of alcohol. Too far in that direction for me. Palate is dense and over extracted, revealing hints of licorice. It's possible this could just be really closed up at the moment and will come around, but these are the type of wines I'm not sure I have the patience for.
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2000 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole 89 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
While I understand this is supposed to be a traditional producer I'm finding this a tad modern, at least in this hot vintage. A strong note of red licorice leads things off, with hints of powdered candy, florals, raisins, vanilla custard, and tar in the background. Palate repeats similar notes with a wall of tannin and a fair bit of acid on the finish. A bit monolithic today. Give a bit more time and hope for the best. While open today it is painfully primary for me and has me wondering about the producer. On the plus side someone at the table mentioned it was a lot more open that last time he had it so maybe the trajectory it's is a good one. Not something I'm seeking out at this point.
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1997 Podere Poggio Scalette Il Carbonaione Alta Valle della Greve IGT 92 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Alta Valle della Greve IGT
Showing nice, though the appearance and aromatics are quite dark given this is 100% sangiovese. I suppose that is just the style of this wine from this producer. Nose of balsamic, old wood, mixed red cherries and dark cherries, plum, prune, tar and coffee. What I found interesting is that often times wines with these descriptors become heavy and tiring but this retained an element of freshness which I liked. To me, the palate is the best part, all the dark depth you want but also so fresh. The finish is medium+ with notes of plum, prune and dark cherries.
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2001 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo 91 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Pours just a touch lighter than the Il Carnbonaione poured before it. Nose on this is of candied cherries, a slight hint of pink bubble gum, mint, red currant, a bit of French oak and forest undergrowth. Palate is nicely acidic and tart. Quite food friendly palate actually. Another medium+ finish and is pleasant with the steak and veal dishes.
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2009 Château Guiraud 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Wow! A real head turner for me and I don't think that's just because this was a sticky after so many reds. Damn powerful nose. So much going on here! The nose is outstanding: vanilla custard, caramelized pineapple, caramel apple, lemon drop, sweet coconut cream. Evidently a tad oaky, but I'm okay with that on this very complete wine. Palate is just right with good viscosity and refreshing acid, though just a touch sweet and rich. If you have some sensitivity to things being cloying this might not work for you, but it hits a sweet spot for me. I have to say, for me, WS nailed it.
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2005 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Laurence 92 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
I usually prefer the Cuvée Reservee. The Cuvée Laurence can sometimes have more fruit and less funk. Today I did really appreciate this however. Nose shows plum, dark cherry, chestnuts, tar, decaying leaves, and earth. I really love Pegau's style. Palate shows lushness and density of fruit with a touch of alcohol noted. The finish is medium+ in length built on ash, tar, chestnuts, and plums. Quite an appealing wine.
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