Selection Parcellaire Masterclass with Michel Chapoutier

A rainy autumn evening proved to be the perfect weather for a tasting of Michel Chapoutier's great wines. We were very fortunate to have Michel speak to the wines and his strongly held views on wine making, terroir and natural wines, among other topics.

The over-riding impression of all of the wines drunk was that of equilibrium. Every wine was immaculately put together and none could be construed as blockbusters. Rather, for my taste, they were wines of finesse that really do need time to show what they are going to do. I considered all of the wines to be outstanding examples if their type but was more impressed with the whites, on balance.

• 2011 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Blanc Les Granits 91 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph

  Bright nose of fresh feijoa, fruit dominant with minerality, Lovely drinkable texture with excellent presence and a very smooth texture.This excellent wine has the opulence associated with the style and adds a refreshing acid cut. Really nice - typical and refined.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Méal 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Very impressive nose featuring an impeccable balance of aromatics - mineral and smoke to the fore - in a spectacular refined fashion. Massive legs. Impressive opulence in the mouth - more oaky than the L'Oree. Notes of smoke and vanilla on the finish. Smooth texture and gorgeous proportion. Spectacular modulated finish that lasts 45 seconds. Bigger and arguably less refined than the L'Oree, this is a superb white Hermitage in the modern school.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L'Orée 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Rounder and slightly more oxidative in style than the Le Meal, this is also a softer wine. The nose features white flowers, rhubarb, caramel and ripe apricot notes. Very fat in the mouth with huge length, this totally refined wine is the essence of Hermitage. A subtle wine (as are all of Chapoutier's selection parcellaire wines) - this is classic and had huge potential for the future.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Croix de Bois 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Classic grenache hue - very youthful in appearance. On the nose, tight aromas of bark, minerality, white pepper and candy cane. This is a super classy grenache with a sweet and direct mouthfeel - the alcohol is well managed. Very refined and certainly outstanding but for me lacked a bit of soul.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage

  Bright and lean nose of currants, pepper and tobacco. Still closed but very refined. Beautiful fruit flavours, proportion and balance. Gentle tannins, bright acid lift. Maybe a bit too subtle for its own good - the wine has excellent balance but just finishes a little lightly. The length is there but the body of the length seems to dissipate. On balance, (just) outstanding in a high acid style.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granits 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph

  Dark, big and slightly obvious nose (for Cahpoutier) that relies on heavy toasted barrels. Bright acids, roasted meats and campfire - excellent. The wine is all about the heavy toast and excellent fruit with (as usual) impeccable mouthfeel and refined character. This win has a great finish that modulates imperceptibly till the end.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Very earthy nose of tobacco smoke, olive and rosemary. Smooth and clean mouthfeel - this wine is very light on its feet - a nimble, classic Cote Rotie. Lighter in style, this wine convinces with its equilibrium.

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• 2011 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  OUtsatnding wine that is just an infant and clearly has huge upward potential with age. ALready, this wine has the classic dark, brooding aromas that I associate with excellent vintages of this wine. A closed nose that hints at hung meats and tapenade. This mulit-dimensional wine is intense and displays perfect texture and balance - huge grip but refined. I would not call this a classic vintage but it is a great wine that is begging for time in the cellar. 95+++

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