Dinner at Ripple

No theme, just some awesome wines and good friends. I got the heirloom tomato salad and the rockfish with charred octopus, which was amazing. For dessert we split an assortment of cheeses, which were insanely good. I discovered a new favorite pairing: the Puffeney Savagnin and this cheese that's rounded with some sort of tree bark or sap? I'm not a cheese whiz but this stuff tasted similar to an epoisses and it was perfect with the Savagnin.

• 2009 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard 94 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  What a beauty. Aromatically kicking, with complex pear and apple, sea salt, white flowers, lemon custard. Tart and fresh on the palate, superb acid but nice weight as well. So precise, clean and elegant. Complex pear, orange and lemon custard notes mixed in with rocky minerals, honeycomb and subtle nutty notes. Gorgeous and elegant with a long life ahead.

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• 2012 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Federspiel Steinterrassen 91 Points

  Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

  Such a young Riesling capable of many years in the cellar, but it was fun to taste it so early. Bursting aromatics: green apple, pineapple, chalk and crushed rocks. Lively acid on the palate and a whole lot of salt, minerals, chalk and sea shell notes to complement the pineapple, orange and green apple fruit. Brisk on the finish. Delicious and complex but needs time to show a whole lot more.

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• 2009 Jacques Puffeney Savagnin Arbois 94 Points

  France, Jura, Arbois

  A crazy interesting wine. Aromas of hazelnut, sea salt, oregano, dried honey and lamp oil. Medium-bodied with bright acidity, the oxidative winemaking is obvious and intriguing, but I love the way it weaves into the other elements instead of dominating the entire wine. Flavors of green apple and apricot, laced with sea brine, jetty rocks, crushed peanut shells, oil and brie rind. Long, complex, deep, this maintains freshness and vibrancy throughout. I need to pick up some more and bury it for a decade because I'm interested to see what comes out.

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• 2012 Domaine des Terres Dorées (Jean-Paul Brun) Moulin-à-Vent 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent

  Lovely nose of roses and bright red and black fruits. Juicy and bright on the palate with fine tannins and fresh acid. Earth, spice, graphite and violet accent the rolling red and black cherry fruit. Opens up nicely with air.

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• 2009 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur-Champigny 93 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur-Champigny

  Exotic nose of herbs, pepper and currants. Fine tannins on the palate, fresh currant fruit is tangy and complex, backed up by olives, barbecued meat and pepper. Had been opened the day before, I believe, so it was showing quite well but it has clear aging potential.

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• 2008 Keating Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

  Red and black currants on the nose, along with dusty earth, cocoa powder and a slight mushroom note. Pure and silky on the palate, a great balance of fine tannins and medium acid. Currant jam and blackberries mix with clove, anise and vanilla. Long, complex, showing well out of a large decanter but could age nicely.

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• 2007 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Valbelle 87 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

  Decanted but not long enough. This baby needs a whole lot of time to open up. So saturated and brutish on the nose, like roasted figs, currant extract and a charcoal pit. So bold on the palate, with blueberries and blackberries slathered in smoked meat, olive brine and graphite. Really tight and hard to crack, but I like the stuff that sneaks out. Huge and extracted, this was a bit difficult to appreciate considering the other wines at the dinner. Still, delicious and clearly well-made but I'd love to revisit this in four or five years.

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• 2009 Linden Petit Manseng Late Harvest 90 Points

  USA, Virginia, Northern Virginia

  Golden color. Smells of apricots, marmalade, honey and nuts. Juicy and rich on the palate but tangy and balanced as well. Oozes with apricot and white peach, matched with honeyed green tea, mixed nuts and a hint of spice (like white pepper?). Very pretty, this paired wonderfully with an array of cheeses at the end of the meal. Cellar-worthy for sure. Drank from a half-bottle.

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• 2005 Château Doisy-Védrines 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Rich nose of apricot, honey, butterscotch, dusting oil and some toasty-nutty elements. Gobs of white peach, pineapple, orange peel and honey on the palate, backed up by baked pear, almonds, honeycomb and white tea. Complex as hell, this deserves years of cellaring, but opens up nicely. Didn't decant, but probably should have. By no means flabby, but if this had just a bit more acid, I'd totally freak (but I'm a huge acid fan).

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