Five Cappellano Baroli with Piedmont inspired cuisine

Tasted Sunday, May 25, 2014 by David Paris (dbp) with 708 views

Introduction

Leading up to our trip to Italy (including a visit at Cappellano), I had this idea to do a five course Piedmont inspired dinner to go along with 5 different Cappellano Baroli. Ken and I both had purchased some of these wines so it was a great opportunity to explore them together. We decanted all five wines once they arrived, so the first had been decanting for about an hour once we began in on them, and the latter ones a few hours.

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I spent a few weeks leading up to the dinner trying to find interesting dishes... I've research most of the Piedmont cookbooks I could find and bought a few and none of them are all that great. There also weren't too many interesting things I could find online. Perhaps Piedmont food is just uninteresting? *shrug* I'm kidding, but it's interesting the lack of quality books. I suppose I'll find out when we head there in a few weeks. The first course certainly was interesting, though... a raw sheep heads mushroom salad with white truffles, anchovies, egg yolk and olive oil. It was quite tasty.

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Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • 2003 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 89 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    This wine looked totally different from all the others... very brown, dark, and baked looking. Kind of thin, too. The aromas were very odd for a "young" Barolo, but it is 2003, after all. Stewed, almost oxidized notes dominate. If I try, some tart, light red fruits are present too. The palate texture is on thee thinner side and the flavors are quite lean, tart, and tannic. The body is fairly smooth, but there's just not much there. Really nice dial up of acid on the finish, though. Quite puckering and lean, in fact. There's a slight bit of dried fruits here and light, fresh raspberries. Overall this wine is already feeling a little bit tired. The only interesting part of it was the finish, and otherwise it's seeming too much affected by the heat of the vintage. I don't see this improving from here (amazing for such a young wine), but so it goes in '03.

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Next course was a lovely artichoke heart with a diced boiled egg, parmesan, and anchovies. Perhaps our favorite dish of the night, with some very interesting flavors.

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The following course I failed to photograph, but another favorite was the Spinach and risotto soup. Lovely stuff.

  • 2006 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Poured alongside the 2006 Rupestris. Very exuberant aromas, though coming across slightly steamy. Very heavy, delicious strawberries with some briar as well. The palate has very impressive smooth, soft, creamy texture. I absolutely love the way this wine feels on the tongue. It's large scaled, but oh so sexy. Again some surprising steaminess, but here there's also puckering acidity on the palate. Coupled with that creaminess, it's very nice. This was quite a bit softer on the palate than the '06 Rupestries. The finish dials up with a nice puckering notion, and has a very heavy, large scaled presence to itself. Hugely grippy tannins on the finish, but overall a little warmer feeling than expected.

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  • 2006 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 92 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Poured alongside the '06 Pie Franco. Initially this was showing some aromas of stinky feet, but luckily this did wind up blowing off. However, nothing aromatically really developed. I was surprised how muted this remained throughout the night no matter how many times I went back to smell it. The palate was more expressive, and enters immediately puckering, with very clean red fruit expressed. Quite tart, with building fruit as its held on the palate. Lovely layers of fruit open up the longer its held. The finish immediately slams you with tannins, but if you can see through that, you then get beautiful fruit. Very lovely, soft fruit, but wow those tannins are massive! Perhaps the "coolest" tasting of the night.

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

For the main we did Rabbit Asti style... basically, a Barolo braised rabbit. For this you need an entire bottle of Barolo in the pot (I chose not to use a bottle of Cappellano, though!):

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Unfortunately the dish was rather bland, and pretty much looked like hell. Just no color at all. Fail... won't be doing that again. We served it with Asparagus with Fontina cheese and anchovies.

  • 2007 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 93 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Fairly large scaled fruit aromas on this guy. Feels very large and dare I say extracted for a Barolo. I'm not even sure I'd pin this as Barolo on the nose. The palate offers huge, rich fruit... very large, but very nice and pure expression of fruit, though it is still incredibly sharp on the palate. Very very tight, but I also get this lovely candied graphite flavor that I absolutely adore. The best palate expression of the night. The finish is rich and puckering, with lots of tannins building. Formidable structure, but with that lovely fruit filled palate, this was probably the wine of the night.

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  • 2008 Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 89 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Surprising plum, pruney nose, though at the same time it certainly feels fresh. Very largely fruited, though... juicy fruit. The palate also offers very big fruit, and again, nearly extracted in its fruit offering... not nearly as tannic as the '06 or '07 on the palate nor finish. On that finish, you're immediately hit with a puckeering notion, but there's also enormous fruit. Quite surprised. Much more tannins show up on the finish, as they entirely coat your mouth, coupled with tart acidity. Surprising this seemed "hotter" than the 2007, which actually was a hotter vintage.

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Closing

Lastly, for dessert, another full bottle of Barolo went into Barolo poached pears with marscapone cheese... unfortunately while good, the pear tasted nothing like Barolo:

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Overall I must say that I was surprised by the wines... on the whole, they seemed a bit more "dialed up" than I expected... higher fruit content (which was nice), but also higher octane with some heat coming through on most of the wines. While they're in the 14.5% range as most other Barolos are these days, I somehow found the alcohol more noticeable here. There is definitely something quite lovely about the aromatics of these wines, but I am quite curious to see how they all evolve. I have a case of both of the 2006s, so I will be able to monitor them over the coming years... though it'll likely be 5-10 years before I pop the next one!

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