Launceston Place

This was my first visit to this stalwart. I found the ambition of the cuisine to be impressive, yet perhaps not matched by the setting and service. The rooms are odd shaped and a bit awkward, and the pacing of the meal felt quite slow, in an uneven rather than a leisurely way. The frozen cauliflower in a sort of tomato oil bath amuse bouche, and the salt marsh lamb main course, were standouts, and I was impressed by the cheese selection.

• 2006 Domaine des Baumard Savennières Clos du Papillon 90 Points

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières

  I was struck by this wine's purity of flavor and its impressive acidity. Not overly floral, with clean white fruit notes and well integrated oak fully in stride with its fine minerality and slightly unctuous texture. A great example of balance and restraint in a Chenin Blanc.

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• 2008 Travaglini Gattinara 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara

  More concentrated and weightier than I expected, with a tar & leather motif outweighing any floral aspects. Not sure this will evolve much -- what you see is what you get.

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• 2006 Château Coutet Barsac 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Though unquestionably of impressive pedigree, this glass was disappointingly muted on the palate, without the bright acidity I have come to expect in a quality Barsac. Though available by the glass, the Somm had to open a new bottle for us, and I believe that the lack of aeration was punitive here. The main components of the flavor profile were vanilla, sweet citrus and a bit of fine herbs. I hope to get another go at this at some point in the future.

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