| | I invited a dozen or so members over after work and lined up 9 of the best Soave's I could find. Some of the notes below are other tastings and I have noted them as such. Life and wine is about experimentation. There is more to life than Chardonnay. Here is some history and background info.
Soave comes from the Veneto in Northeastern Italy and is a generally underrated wine region. Soave is made primarily from the Garganega grape (although small amounts of Chardonnay and Trebbiano are allowed). The region gained DOC status in 1968. Unfortunately, vast vineyard areas in the plains were included with the much superior hillside sites when the DOC boundaries were drawn. As a result, many weak dull wines come out of Soave. To make matters worse, there is a massive Soave cooperative which monopolizes all but a handful of growers. The cooperative vinifies millions of gallons of wine (Soave is after all the largest white wine producing area in Italy) which it sells to negociants to be bottled. There are 5 basic categories for these wines: Soave (any wine from the DOC but almost exclusively Negociant bottlings); Soave Classico (from the historic hillside vineyards); Soave Classico Superiore (minimum 1 year aging); Single Vineyard (same as SCS but also sourced from a single vineyard); and Recioto di Soave (a dessert wine made from dried grapes). For this tasting, I put together wines from the top 3 categories with an emphasis on an eclectic mix of the different styles of Single Vineyard wines. There are only about 15 or so growers in Soave who bottle their own individual estate wines (including each of the producers in this tasting). According to James Suckling, many Single Vineyard wines (like those listed below) have the qualities of top French whites, such as Chablis or Puligny-Montrachet, with marked mineral and apple character. Yet they remain distinctly Italian, with, in many cases, a great price tag. Generally, single vineyard designated wines are the best in Soave. Here are my notes: Soave Classico - 2000 Tamellini Soave Classico Tamellini - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
Actually tried in Aug, 2002. This wine was an excellent light and refreshing summer drink. It possessed a lemongrass aroma. Medium bodied with crisp acidity and lively grapefruit, citrus and almond flavors. This was a dry wine which also contained a hint of licorice among its many unfolding layers. It had a long finish. Very impressive. (89 pts.)
Soave Classico Superiore - 2000 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
20000 cases made. This is the last of my 6 bottles. This wine is made from 90% Garganega grapes and 10% Trebbiano di Soave grapes. Both native varietals in the Veneto. This winery was founded in 1860. Nino Pieropan (referred to as "the noble soul of the appellation" by his peers) uses methods such as short pruning, green harvest and organic manuring to achieve the Garganega grapes full potential. The volcanic soils of the hillside sites used in this wine are heavy in clay and basalt. Aged in 20-hl. barrels for 2-3 months. This was WS's #41 wine of 2002. WS91. This wine is on the decline. It is not what it once was. It has rounded out but has lost much of its freshness. Some apple notes. 86-87 points. (87 pts.)
- 2000 Tamellini Soave Classico Superiore - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
5800 cases made. In 1998, Gaetano Tamellini, convinced that his 37 acres of prestigious hillside vineyards could do better, purchased modern vinification equipment and this Soave Classico and 2 single vineyard bottlings debuted. Yields are restricted and one of Italy's great white winemakers, Paolo Caciorgna, was hired to lend assistance. He grows white Garganega grapes exclusively on his estate in Costeggiola, a few miles north of the town of Soave. 22 acres are devoted to this wine, his base bottling. To assure quality, Tamellini works with importer Marco de Garzia to insure that his wines are shipped and stored in temperature controlled conditions during transport. Aged in stainless steel. WS90. This wine has held on a little better. Light colored. Fresh melon and green apple notes on a delicate frame. Crisp finish. 88 points. (88 pts.)
- 2001 Pieropan Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
The wine had a pale straw color. It was not as good as the 2000 but quite tasty. I was impressed by the minerality of the soil that shown through in this wine. It was crisp and lively with notes of tart apple and grapefruit. Good clean medium length finish. 89-90 points. (89 pts.)
Single Vineyard Soave - 1999 Tamellini Soave Classico Superiore Anguane - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
Actually tried this in Nov. 2002. A pale yellow color. This was a charming, elegant and indeed feminine wine. The glass was filled with lemony and citrus notes. Primarily I noticed that this had a fresh character and crisp acidity. Green apples, pears and an underlying minerality were present on the finish. Light to medium bodied which added to the pleasure of this wine. 91 points. Do not overchill this wine. It will lose its aromatics and dull the flavors. (91 pts.)
- 2000 Tamellini Soave Classico Superiore Anguane - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
830 cases made. Tamellini produces two limited production single vineyard bottlings (Anguane and Le Bine) from his 37 acres of vines in the Veneto. The "Anguane" vineyard is said by growers in the region to produce the most alluring and feminine of all Soave. Tamellini's 2 single vineyard wines are named after mythical fairies that are said to dance in the vineyard. Workers claim that there is a certain sensuality that pervades the vineyard, making it the most popular of the vineyards to work. James Suckling commented that this needs a little time in the bottle so I picked out a bottle of the 2000 vintage. 100% Garganega. A creamy nose with tart apple and pear notes. This one hit the spot on a 90 degree day. 91 points. (91 pts.)
- 2002 Tamellini Soave Classico Superiore Anguane - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
Actually tried this in the Summer of 2004. The 2002 did not disappoint. Fresh and crisp. Succulent apple and citrus notes. I would give it another 90 points (90 pts.)
- 2000 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
Tasted twice about 2 months apart. 800 cases imported. The top wine from this producer. According to James Suckling this is "always one of the best from Soave". Whereas Roberto Anselmi decided to abandon the appellation, Nino Pieropan has seen the controversial Soave DOC through thick and thin for over thirty years, never yielding a single quality inch! A full bodied ripe style. 100% late-harvested Garganega grapes which ferment in 500-liter oak barrels for several months and is then transferred for further aging in 20-hl. barrels, for a total of about 1 year. WS91. WA90. Nice aromatic nose of lemon and green apple. The most mineral of all the Soave's. Rich and full bodied which is a testament to the late harvest grapes used. A little oak was present on the long finish. 89-92 points. (91 pts.)
- 2001 Suavia Soave Classico Superiore Monte Carbonare - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
Made from old vines (the vineyard was first planted by the Tessari family in 1946). Monte Carbonare is one of Classico’s best crus, named after the dark, coal-like color of this volcanic soil (carbone means "coal"). Its small, highly concentrated crops are picked slightly overripe in early October, and a portion of the must ferments in nuetral barrique. The result is rich & complex. Purchased by Seaquam for us in Vancouver. He said this was reminiscent of some of Thevenet's riper Macons and gave it a 91-92 rating. 100% Garganega. WA89. The nose stood out on this one with creamy cheese and apple notes. A restrained style but deliciously rich tropical fruit notes. The smoothest of all these wines. 90+ points. (90 pts.)
- 2001 Gini Soave Classico Superiore La Frosca - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
1500 cases imported. Sandro Gini's mission is to achieve greatness in Soave, tease out all its subtle finesse without renouncing the rounded structure and challenge the top winemakers in Italy armed with a notoriously difficult grape like Garganega. This wine has irresistible freshness and acidity. A racy and minerally style. According to James Suckling, it reminds him of a young Chablis premier cru. Made in stainless steel. WS90. WA90. A floral nose with some petrol nuances. Amasingly rich for a wine made in stainless steel. Notes of stone fruit an mineral. This single vineyard is a step up from the SCS's. 90 points. (90 pts.)
- 2001 Roberto Anselmi San Vincenzo Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
On March 1st, 2000, Roberto Anselmi, the Maestro of Soave, slammed the door on this appellation and wrote the ‘traitress’ (a goodbye letter). It was an impassioned and objective analysis of this DOC. In part he wrote: "For years, I told myself: my vineyards are on high-altitude hillside soil, my vines are very densely planted (5,000-6,000 per hectare, a little under 2,500 per acre), my training system is not the high-yielding pergola but Guyot (small crops, fruit grown close to old wood), my harvest is severely selective, my winery hi-tech, every detail fine-tuned from grape bunch to bottle. The market considers my wine good to very good, my price points are reasonable, I target the high-quality restaurant, the best wine shops, and my consumers know me and appreciate me. This is all true, but it’ s not enough. I can’t go on defending Soave on my own, by my sole physical and economical efforts ... I've played Don Quixote for too long... I want out...I want my freedom." And with that he declassified his wines and has since sold them as IGT. 80% Garganega, 15% Chardonnay and 5% Trebbiano with no wood. WA88. Floral nose. A little too light but still very nice. Pear notes but it needed more depth to get to the outstanding category. 88-89 points. (89 pts.)
- 2000 Roberto Anselmi Capitel Croce Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
I tried this wien at the ws Grand Tour. It had an excellent melon nose but faded on the palate. It tasted flat at the start which eventually led into some nice pear and apple notes. The finish had a little heat. 87-88. (88 pts.)
- 2001 Roberto Anselmi Capitel Croce Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
Another superlative cru, from the stony, volcanic Capitel Croce hillside vineyard, aged in Allier barriques for 12 months. This is one of the few ageworthy wines from Soave with a cellar life of 5 to 6 years. I tried the 2000 at Wine Spectators Grand Tour in Chicago and thought it was a rich, full bodied, opulent almost Chardonnaylike wine. 100% Garganega. This was my favorite dry Soave. Ripe banana's on the nose which followed through onto the palate. This was much less oaky than the 2000 which I appreciated. Full bodied with spicy orchard fruit notes, primarily pear. Long finish. 91-92 points. (91 pts.)
Recioto di Soave - 1999 Tamellini Recioto di Soave Vigna Marogne - Italy, Veneto, Recioto di Soave
533 cases of half bottles were made. Recioto in general is hard to find and rare. These wines are made in tiny quantities from very ripe grapes that have been dried indoors to concentrate the sugar. Fermentation is stopped before all of the sugar is converted into alcohol to produce the wines sweetness. 100% Garganega. Deep yellow color. This had a creamy texture with carmel notes with some tropical fruit nuances mixed in. 91-92. (92 pts.)
- 1999 Bixio Recioto di Soave Il Mondello - Italy, Veneto, Recioto di Soave
Tried this wine at VinItaly. A very nice white dessert wine made from dried grapes. A carmel nose with creamy fruit notes of pear and apricot. 91-92. (91 pts.)
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