Chicago: wine, food, friends...cigars!
Blackbird, Les Nomades, Naha, with lunch at Shaw's Crab House
Tasted Wednesday, September 17, 2014 - Saturday, September 20, 2014 by Tim Heaton with 1,113 views
Introduction
A gathering of good friends, from all across America, to celebrate friendship and the 55th birthday of one in our group. Chicago had been discussed for some time - it's pretty much got it all, great food, culture, wine friendly town, etc.
Planning began roughly 3 months ahead of time (hotel was first, which was a good call, as the downtown was basically full-up during the week we were there, with -0- availability at our hotel). Several venue suggestions were made regarding dining during this period, with the group weighing pros and cons before ultimately deciding upon (4) different venues - 3 for dinner, and one for a group lunch. With three weeks to go, we had signed all of our dining contracts (typical for large/private parties), and pretty much had declared our wines.
In attendance:
Izzy/Kim (North Carolina)
Brad/Lesley (Florida)
Tom (Texas)
Dawn/Joe (Indiana)
Scott (Pac NW)
Tim/Alicia (Colorado)
Flight 1 - Blackbird (12 Notes)
Some enjoyed the menu more than others. That said, some dishes were more interesting, better conceived than others, too. The private room was very private, if a bit cold. Service was ok, nothing special. The people there were nice, but overall it lacked charm. One upside was that we only had to walk 15 feet or so from the front door to a little streetside patio of sorts (Avec) where we got to enjoy a night cap (completely unnecessary, of course) of Single Malt Scotch. Stumbling back from there, for 30 minutes, to our hotel, is a great memory.
Our (fixed) menu:
grilled sepia with shitake jam, beets, chamomile, and shiso
confit fjord trout with zucchini, smoked serranos, trout roe, and purslane
seared sea scallop with sweet corn, pickled blueberries, chervil, and black ramp
corned beef tongue with wheat berries, avocado, leeks, and beer vinegar
schmaltz-poached chicken breast and leg with smoked vidalia onion, king trumpet mushrooms, green garbanzos, and pistachios
grilled striploin with blistered fava beans, walnut gnocchi, and grated wasabi
doe run ‘st. malachi’ cow’s milk gouda with red miso cheesecake, anise streussel, sweet cherries, and fermented black bean
chamomile pickled cantaloupe with mish mish granola and toasted rice
roasted apricot sorbet with tahini fudge, honied kefir, sesame leaf croquant, and cilantro
Flight 2 - Les Nomades - truly an 'exceeds expectations'. Highly memorable, highly recommended (10 Notes)
The absolute, hands down highlight of the trip. Service, ambiance, food, etc. was top notch. Matt, our Somm (and our service director, of sorts) was fantastic - guy's going places. Highest marks to Maribeth and her entire team. Closed with cigars on the walk back to the hotel, IIRC (a bit of a blur, that one).
Our menu choices:
Plats Premiers (choose one)
Three preparations of smoked salmon, caramelized shallot purée
Artichoke terrine, petit salad, watercress purée, black garlic purée
Oysters on the half-shell, daily selection served with lemon and mignonette
Pâtés maison ~ assorted house-prepared pâtés served with cornichons and toasted brioche
Chilled torchon of Hudson Valley foie gras, petit salad with truffle vinaigrette, toasted brioche
Langoustine ravioli, seared scallop, coconut curry sauce
Asparagus risotto with wild mushroom ragoût, basil goat cheese sauce, celeriac espuma
Sautéed Hudson Valley foie gras, rhubarb, strawberry balsamic reduction, fig-banana water
Grilled calamari, confit fennel and tomato, escabeche
Escargots, yellow tomato coulis, Roquefort cheese
Deuxième
Mushroom soup, truffle foam
Duck consommé, star anise, water chestnut, shitake mushroom, and chicken dumpling
Warm lobster and shrimp salad, mango dressing, taro root chip
Stone crab salad, endive, truffle purée, avocado
Fresh asparagus, shaved truffle, asparagus gelée, jamon Iberico
Artisan greens, marinated vegetables, hazelnut crusted goat cheese, balsamic vinaigrette
Les Poissons
Sautéed Dover sole, asparagus, saffron beurre blanc
Arctic Char, Maitake mushroom, forbidden rice, yellow tomato lemongrass sauce
Today’s market selection
Les Viandes et Les Volailles
Roasted duck breast and confit duck leg, Savoy cabbage, green peppercorn sauce
Braised beef short rib, root vegetables, trumpet royale mushrooms, Bordelaise sauce
Veal sweetbread, red wine sauce; and roasted venison loin, foie gras sauce
Couscous & lentils, blue corn grits, roasted carrot, confit shallot
Duo of slow-roasted veal and lamb loin, pommes purée, eggplant, lamb jus au pistou
Les Fromages et Les Desserts
Notable artisan cheeses
Homemade ice creams and sorbets
Vanilla bean mille-feuille, with fresh berries
Lemongrass ginger crème brulée, lemongrass mousse, coconut tuile
Medjool date cake, mango, passion fruit ganache, apricot sauce, lychee sorbet
Cheesecake parfait, poached rhubarb, rhubarb sauce, strawberry rhubarb sorbet
Pastry assortment~ chocolate mousse, lemon tart, rhubarb crème brulée, Grand Marnier soufflé glacé
*
**KINDLY SELECT THE FOLLOWING DESSERTS AT THE TIME YOU PLACE YOUR DINNER ORDER**
Classic soufflés, choose Grand Marnier, lemon, raspberry, hazelnut or passion fruit
Warm chocolate tart with raspberries, white coffee bean ice cream, vanilla froth, chocolate sauce
Warm flourless chocolate cake with liquid cassis ganache center, vanilla ice cream
Fresh apple tart with green apple sorbet
CHOOSE AN APPETIZER, A SECOND COURSE, A FISH, OR MEAT MAIN COURSE, AND CHEESE OR DESSERT
PRIX FIXE MENU FOUR COURSES $115
or
INCLUDE BOTH A FISH COURSE AND A MEAT MAIN COURSE $130
Roland Liccioni, Cuisinier
Flight 3 - Naha (1-star, since 2010) - over priced, a bit soulless, not planning on returning or recommending (10 Notes)
We were seated in the main dining room (table for 8 that night). The food was good/very good. One or two dishes were excellent. We had fun (uh, 16 bottles, LOTS of them mags), but I don't think it's on anyone's radar to return. Service was OK. Found out at the end of the night that their 'checked bag fees' came in the form of water. $170 for water (no name water, mind you). Whatever.
Our (fixed) menu:
“French Kiss” Oyster from New Brunswick,
Chardonnay Vinegar Sorbet, Salmon Roe and Tarragon
*
Late Summer Sweet Corn Soup, Confit Garlic Custard,
Burgundy Snails, Buttermilk Ricotta and Burgundy Truffles
*
Sea Scallop “Dusted” with Vanilla Bean, Citrus and Spices,
Hawaiian Hamakua Farm Hearts of Palm, Musk Melon,
Caramelized Belgian Endive and Spearmint
*
Alaskan Troll Caught King Salmon and Maine Lobster,
Beluga Lentils and Black Trumpet Mushrooms, “Big Leaf” Spinach,
Grilled Scallions and Red Wine Lobster Jus, Sweet Pea Salad
*
Hudson Valley Foie Gras with a “Tarte Tatin” of Fennel,
Black Mission Figs and Mache, Preserved Black Walnuts, Minus 8 Ice Vinegar,
Licorice Root and Rose Petal Marmalade
*
A “Brace” of Roast Quail, Slow Cooked Applewood Slab Bacon and Cockscomb,
Neptune Grapes, Tuscan Kale, Soft Corn Grits and Sauce Arabica
*
Braised Short Ribs of Beef and Veal Sweetbreads
Scented with Black Cardamom and Plums, Lobster Mushrooms,
Luxury Pumpkin Puree and Swiss Chard, Hemp Seed Fattoush
*
Bittersweet Chocolate Pavé, Milk Chocolate Beignet,
Caramel Corn, Chocolate Cream and Malted Milk Ice Cream
LOTS of great pairings, but the 2000 Alois Kracher Welschriesling TBA #10 Zwischen den Seen {en magnum} and the Foie Gras dish was mind blowing
Flight 4 - Shaw's Crab House (downtown location) (6 Notes)
Love, love, love this place. Old school, new school. Really great food (we each ordered off the menu), and good/great service, too (exception: Brad's espresso?) We were seated in one of their private rooms, a nice affair that looked out on the main dining room. Ask for Allison if you're going, or the private dining mgr if you're with a large group. Will definitely return/recommend. 9 very happy people left there that day - proud to say I know all of them a little better.
Closing
If I can speak for the group, I believe that we'd definitely return to Les Nomades. In fact, it gets our highest marks. Blackbird was met with mixed reviews (the menu was appealing to some, less so to others), and Naha was stiff and overpriced, the food good/very good, but not 1-star - not sure any of us will be in a hurry to return there, either.
Truly a warm and generous lot, and very good traveling companions, too.
The next city is t/b/d, but New Orleans, San Diego, or Seattle seemed to be the cities most commonly discussed at length.
2008 Veuve Fourny & Fils Champagne Rosé Les Rougemonts Extra Brut
France, Champagne
(9/17/2014)
Very firm, solidly built. Chalky, with brilliant freshness, really lively acids. By the second glass, more minerals and crunchy fruit comes forward, but honestly, if I had these, I'd let them rest for a decade - they've got the stuffing to well exceed the (modest) price point. recommended
Served non-blind at an offline.
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2004 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Special Club
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
(9/17/2014)
Really delicious. Interesting and very tasty blend that shows well today and also exhibits some really great raw material for substantive development over the next 5-10 years as well. Subtle toast on a backdrop of citrus and orchard fruit leavened with minerals and chalk. A lovely, never-ending stream of very fine bubbles. This is classy stuff. recommended
PnP, served non-blind.
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2005 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre La Grande Côte
France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
(9/17/2014)
The color would suggest just a couple of years after release - the acids, pretty much the same thing: this is ageing quite slowly. But, with 3 hours of Audoze, this was open (though not fully, could still use some time in the cellar - palate preference depending) to come to its fullest expression. Medium(-) bodied, with lively aromas and full-ish stone and citrus fruits in the mouth. Lingering, vibrant and noble. Just lovely. 13,5% abv, thru 2023; highly recommended
Served non-blind.
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2011 Littorai Chardonnay B. A. Thieriot Vineyard
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
(9/17/2014)
My first Littorai in some years, and, IIRC, my first ever from this vineyard. Served alongside a magnum of Peter Michaels' Point Rouge, the two had less in common than one might think, though each had just as many attributes in its favor. This was lighter, and brighter than the 2006 PM, more oily and citrusy, too, with really unique mineral and honeycomb character that tantalized the mind and palate alike. I seldom use the expression 'crunchy fruit', but it sure seems appropriate here; exciting stuff. Original, balanced, refreshing -- what's not to love? Thru 2021, highly recommended
Slow-O 1 hour, served non-blind. Many thanks to the cookies for sharing :D
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2006 Peter Michael Chardonnay Point Rouge
USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
(9/17/2014)
{en magnum} Fresh, but also developed in this format (I thought that it might be too tight still, but that wasn't the case) so as to avoid showing anything hot or non-integrated. (if) Served blind, first (all) instincts go to CA, though I'm glad it didn't do so in a way that was gratuitous. Our bottle had deeply pitched acids that aptly managed multiple layers of orchard, stone and citrus fruits that would have been awkward and flabby absent the significant lift. The abv is adequately resolved, but prolly best to aerate to decanter for 60 minutes, anyway. Reading some other notes (after the fact), I think I got lucky and found this in a good place. Served side by side with a 2011 Littorai Theriot, this was a fabulous lesson in diversity.
Slow-O 1 hour, served non-blind.
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2006 Morlet Family Vineyards Chardonnay Coup de Coeur
USA, California, Sonoma County
(9/17/2014)
A fascinating contrast to the 2006 Peter Michael Point Rouge and the 2011 Littorai Theriot served next to it. Medium-bodied, but the cut was significant, effortlessly hoisting and clearly delineating layer upon layer of fruit; tricks (my) the mind, at times that I found myself looking at the bottle, expecting to see it was some type of blend with Sauvignon Blanc or something. And while this debut vintage may have been much more powerful and weighty at release, it was in a perfect place on the night, and, IIRC, the first bottle that was emptied. Excellent with food, or on its own. Artful, which is to say, not overworked, clumsy or hot. Thru 2020, recommended
Slow-O 1 hour, served non-blind.
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1999 Dominus Estate
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/17/2014)
{magnum} This bottle has shown up at various tastings a number of times over the years, and depending on when it does (and how it's been stored, etc.), I've noticed a good amount of bottle variation. Thankfully, for us, that variation proved heavily in our favor. I agree with another tn here in that this needed more aeration in order to show its best. In fact, 1/3 of a bottle remained for day 2, and it was magnificent, in full bloom, if you will. On a night with serious heavy-hitter reds, this was a standout for its grace and artful composition. Having said all that, I still prefer the (magnum) 1997 served two nights later. In a 750 format, it's likely time to drink up, but in this magnum, there's still has another 4-5 years of very pleasurable drinking ahead; fully resolved on all fronts. highly recommended
Served non-blind. Aerated to decanter for 90 minutes.
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2000 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Original Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
(9/17/2014)
Leather, cassis, plum and pen ink with flavors largely following the nose. Elegant, full-bodied, and fully resolved, with some of its former bulk still shining through from moment to moment. Pleasurable, and very good with food. Certainly on the back half of its plateau; drink up.
Aerated to decanter 90 minutes, served non-blind.
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2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select
USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
(9/17/2014)
{magnum} A divisive wine by its very nature, I suppose; perhaps more so at this stage and in this format. No need to run through the descriptors at this point, as it's pretty well documented. Would like to see this in 10 year (750ml) and/or 20 years (1.5L) as I prefer nuanced tertiary to modern/sappy secondary. Let these rest unless you're just ready to get your hedonism on.
Aerated to decanter 90 minutes, this was still unfolding some three hours in; served non-blind.
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2001 Pride Mountain Vineyards Reserve Claret
USA, California, North Coast, Napa / Sonoma
(9/17/2014)
No need to wait unless tertiary is your game (and it's already got some, surprisingly); for now, solidly in the secondary development camp. Nothing heavy handed or over-ripe, instead, a sensibly full-bodied wine that displays some really smart blending. With a 6 hour Audoze, this was ready to go, and held strong into day 2 as well. The coolness of the mountain fruit was nicely offset by the warmth of the vintage. Very good toward excellent. 14,4% abv., drink thru 2022
Served non-blind. I will decant the next one 90 minutes prior to service.
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2002 Hundred Acre Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan
USA, California, Napa Valley
(9/17/2014)
Dense, but equally well-lifted, which makes for a textural pleasure palace of sorts. Fine tannins, resolved EtOH, and deeply (dark/black) fruited; manages to keep from getting too high-toned and anonymous. Delicious, and, while not in my wheelhouse, well composed and undeniably pure. Serious length. Toward the end of its secondary development; 5-7 more very good years ahead, at least.
Aerated to decanter 90 minutes, served non-blind. Would advise to Audoze all day.
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1983 Vier Jahreszeiten Winzergenossenschaft Dürkheimer Feuerberg Huxelrebe Beerenauslese
Germany, Pfalz
(9/17/2014)
{375ml} Holy cow, was this ever good. Still managing some decent freshness, notwithstanding its advanced color. But really, the strong suit here was complexity, the type that comes only with age and from really good raw material, too. All around, an excellent example of the variety, style, place and time. drink thru 2022, highly recommended
Slow-O 30 minutes, served non-blind; continued to open up through the final sip.
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