Wraysbury Dinner

• NV Laurent-Perrier Champagne Grand Siècle "La Cuvée"

  France, Champagne

  Seven years post-purchase aging. The two-tone pink/grey box rather than the 90's patterned bronze. Fresh, creamy nose with crème-pat maturing chardonnay nose. Lovely line and poise. Still a little understated, but so classy and fine with the PN providing some depth without detracting from the finese. ****1/2

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Roast rack and crispy belly of Saltmarsh lamb, peas and hazelnut crumb

• 1974 Maison Albert Bichot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts Domaine du Clos Frantin 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Opened about six hours ahead of serving and left with the cork back in to relax. Freshened up and put on some weight in the interim. Nicely sweet mid red fruit, silky smooth. Darkened and became a little more savoury in the glass, finishing with a touch of soy. As intended, when served blind this was taken as a mature Rioja. Plenty of mid-palate depth and interest. Remarkable given the vintage etc. Really very enjoyable. ****

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• 1974 Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino Rioja Contino Reserva 91 Points

  Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja

  Mid ruby, reasonably bright. My third bottle of this in eighteen months, and from a stunning bottle initially, the second was a little less composed, and this one a step further down whilst still being a very good mature Rioja, it lacked the pizzazz of that first bottle. A touch of coffee, less of the orange peel than one might have expected. Still reasonably plush fruit, but just lacking that little something. Can't argue with bottle variation after 40 years though! ***1/2

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Saddle of red deer, beetroot and romanesco

• 1985 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Served a little too cool initially, and though it was opened six hours in advance I should really have decanted it an hour or so ahead of serving. Still quite dense and dark-fruited. Velvety texture, quite plush. Served blind it was mistaken for a right bank claret ten years younger. It does show a good core of sweet fruit and an iron and blood edge, though this minerality takes a while to open out and show. Lovely. ****

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• 1983 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle Flawed

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Dark ruby. Dense. A little less expressive and somehow more mute cf the 85 alongside. Never really takes off, and after an hour or so in the glass there's just the faintest hint of corkiness on this. Enough to take the edge off but not enough to render it undrinkable. Still, no better than *** / 87 in this state. Shame, as bottles in good condition have been wonderful. I wonder whether this had been re-corked by the domaine — under the lead capsule there was a clear plastic quarter-capsule, and the cork, though the same type, markings and length as the 85, was significantly fresher-looking and far less deeply soaked, red only a quarter down cf the 85 which was almost wet through.

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Chocolate cake

• 1963 Cockburn Porto Vintage 94 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Bright, vibrant mid ruby. Decanted 12 hours ahead of serving. Beautifully sweet, fragrant, almost slightly ethereal, non-spirity port. As a very occasional port drinker, this is exactly how I like them. Very moreish (ouch!). ****1/2

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