Wine-Pages Offline - London

Vinoteca, Soho
Tasted Friday, November 14, 2014 by graemeg with 455 views

Introduction

The last time I was in London for over 24 hours, there was no such thing as an internet to put to use arranging offlines. A near-week-long business trip gave me just one possible evening to fit in a social event, and forumites – at the generous instigation of Nayan, who ran the admin – stepped up in the most hospitable way possible, all bringing a ‘themeless’ bottle to Vinoteca in Soho. Even as late as 2014, we forget how bizarre the idea of an “off-line” dinner is to ‘normal’ (ie. wine-handicapped) people; my two colleagues on the trip were positively incredulous when I explained my planned Friday night activity to them. Nup, never been to the restaurant, never met the people, and I’ll be totally unarmed!
Generously sharing their wines and time with me were Nayan & Anne, Phil & Sonia, David P, Max and Nick A. Thanks for a terrific night folks. Sheer force of habit has resulted in these sketchy notes, offered with as little authority as I would think of claiming…

Flight 1 - Fizz & Whites (3 Notes)

  • 2010 Juvé y Camps Cava Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva

    Spain, Cava

    {cork} (Nayan & Ann) From Vinotec’s list; I thought it surprisingly cheesily advanced for champagne; since it turned out to be Cava this was less of a surprise; the apple-ish qualities to the palate should have been the giveaway. Medium acidity, bubbles quite active but obvious. White fruit and brown apples. Fairly decent effort; but not for the cellar.

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  • 2004 Chambers Rosewood Gouais

    Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen

    {screwcap, 11.4%} Served (blind) a little warmer than I would have liked; but perhaps this emphasized the fairly mild grassy/straw flavours and aromas. There’s a suggestion of developed toastiness that hints at oak, but often misleadingly. This was similar for me to last January’s winery tasting; it’s pleasant enough; with balanced acidity, and gentle hay & toast flavours; it has a light/medium-bodied weight, with a finish that just manages medium length, although it’s not a terribly absorbing drink. The main interest here is the historic connection, Gouais being a grape verging on extinction, despite being credited with chardonnay’s parentage. Nayan had even tasted a previous incantation of this label; at least it was new to everyone else!

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  • 1996 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    {cork, 13.5%} (Phil & Sonia) Aged, wax and lanolin flavours, not without an oxidative character, but enticing none-the-less. Medium/full-bodied, with softening acidity, yes, but this is gloriously at peak; near-20 year-old Roussanne might be something of an acquired taste, but this coats the palate so evenly and with such majestic presence that surely even those unsympathetic to its character could appreciate it. Wonderful; but drink now obviously, unless you’re determined to gamble further with cork!

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Flight 2 - Reds & Sweet (7 Notes)

Attempting to arrange the entirely random and rather disparate collection of reds into a logical sequence of weight meant we broached my Aussie effort next, with the remaining wines following in what we presumed were a parade of generally increasing size.

  • 2001 Domaine A Cabernet Sauvignon

    Australia, Tasmania, Coal River

    {cork, 14.5%} (me!) Purporting to drink wines in palate-weight sequence and starting with a wine claiming 14.5% alcohol seems capricious to say the least; but I was prepared to have faith in Domaine A’s philosophy. And it must be said, this really doesn’t betray than much ethanol; instead it has an only slightly-developing nose of ripe dark fruit, black olives and tobacco. The palate has lovely leafy cabernet fruit, no warmth, but a rather astringent finish; the medium chalky tannins are persistent, and the medium-length finish coats most of the tongue. This is pretty decent I reckon, steering a mid-course between old- and new-world styles. It doesn’t really justify its price either at home nor in the UK, it must be said; but perhaps that’s a function of its barely-2000-dozen annual production. Still, nice to drink, now and for another decade at least on this showing.

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  • 1995 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    {cork, 14%} (Nick) Oh, yes, old red wine; leathery, sweetish, red berry and bretty aromas; dry dusty palate, at least medium-bodied even after all these years. As a child of Oz I have to say this is illogically reminiscent of old hunter reds; smeary and blurry, with heat and dust, yes, and subtle brett, but mostly a sensual sort of presence; has a good length still of chalky tannins and acid that match food nicely; there’s still a fine mid-palate presence here. At twenty, in tip-top shape for current drinking.

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  • 2003 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas Renaissance

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

    {cork, 14%} (Phil&Sonia) Developing aromas; sweet blackberry fruit with a touch of spice. Still manages near-medium acidity despite the vintage, soft chalky tannins frame the richly spicy palate; it finishes medium-length, with all the tongue engaged. Pretty tidy wine all round; if any red can cope with a hot vintage and still offer a semblance of structure it’s syrah. Great drinking now.

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  • 2004 Talenti Brunello di Montalcino

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    {cork, 14.5%} (David) I really like Brunello, but I’ve tasted so few; a reflection of how pricey they are in Oz. And everywhere I s’pose. This is big and rich, with sweet violets and liquorice on the nose; the palate is a hefty blend of black fruits but manages that conjuring trick of being rich and austere at the same time; it’s virtually full-bodied, with masses of powdery tannins, no shortage of acid, and a longish but not overblown finish. Really good wine, and still on the upslope of development. Keep.

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  • 2005 Torbreck Mataro The Pict

    Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

    {cork, 14.5%} (Max) Quite youthful still, although a bit liqueur-like; volatile and estery, with cherried aromas. Only medium-bodied in the end; has a tobacco-ey sort of dirtiness; earth and mushrooms too. Deriving some sort of complexity from its low-acid flirtation with bacteria I think; medium chalky tannins and medium-bodied weight unite to form a medium length dry finish; Nice as it is I think it’s not likely to improve; so best enjoy it while it lasts.

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  • 2008 Domaine de Maruéjols Vin de France Rosemary

    France, Vin de France

    {cork} (Max) Light smoke and tobacco nose, quite aged. Pungent, earthy palate, black-grape fruit characters but fading a little; also a touch scorched. Medium-bodied, with pleasant medium acidity, and short-medium finish. Decent effort for a VdT carignan presumably? Drink up. This was poured earlier but not tasted by me – I should have drunk it in the right sequence for best effect.

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  • 2000 Bacalhoa Moscatel de Setúbal

    Portugal, Península de Setúbal, Moscatel de Setúbal

    {cork, 18%} (Nayan & Ann) Gold amber colour. Rich honeycomb and vanilla bean. The palate is liqueured and honeylike, medium/sweet, syrupy and dense in texture but then cutting acid pushes through; this is fresh, with a cold tea character to the flavours, medium/full body, and a medium length finish. Oh, very nice indeed.

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Closing

What a great night it was; and I am sorry I didn’t get to move around the table a bit more to chat. The magic of the internet. I must say, I wasn’t in the least surprised to find Wine-Page-ers so generous and convivial; the internet might be full of weird personalities but the fraternal nature of wine-lovers the world over really is a force for good. By sheer co-incidence I ran into my work colleagues (who re-scheduled flights) in the BA lounge in Changi 36 hours later; all they wanted to know about was the dinner with the people I’d never met before! ‘You had to be there’ was all I could say. Thanks to all!

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