In the House of MLERMONTOV

Another tremendous evening with my friends. MLERMONTOV is a most gracious host and I always know that the wines will be of the highest caliber. Some of the greatest Riesling I have ever experienced was had at this table and has converted me to a believer of the grape and regions it excels in.

• 2009 Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  The nose was gorgeous with smoke and minerals up front, yet with time in the glass I found peach skin, yellow flowers, hints of bread crusts and copper. It entered the palate angular and firm, only to quickly smooth out, enticing the senses with tart apple, minerals and Bree. The tart, mineral finish was perfectly accentuated by mouthwatering acidity. Very nice.

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• NV Equipo Navazos La Bota de Vino Blanco 44 "Florpower" 91 Points

  Spain, Andalucía, Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda

  The nose showed crushed stone, almond, stone fruit and fig. On the palate, it was clean yet showed tremendous presence with citrus-tinged green apple, blanched almond and hints of honey. A long mineral-laden finish with roasted nuts and stone fruit provided an excellent finale.

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The reds were very good, however two of them stood head and shoulders above the rest. This being my second time tasting both the 2000 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo and 1988 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde. The Mascarello is a perfect example of why you buy the producer and not the vintage. This wine is atypical of the 2000 vintage, in that it comes across and remarkably classic in every way. The ’88 Guigal is a wine that proved the importance of the Northern Rhone to me. What an incredible wine and still full of life. If you have them, you are very lucky as it’s drinking just beautifully right now. What happened with the Clos des Papes? I wish I could say. After experiencing the 2001 at this same table only a month ago, I was hoping for another incredible experience. However, I was let down. As for the Brunello, it’s seen its day, but that doesn’t mean I didn’t revel in its mature beauty.

• 1981 Il Colle Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 90 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  A truly beautiful wine on the nose with classic, mature Sangiovese notes of dried cherry, leather, crushed potpourri, plum and minerals. This showed elegant, mature fruit. On the palate, it may have seen its day, as this was clean, fresh and focused, yet never filled out, as pretty dry cherry notes and minerality provided an enjoyable experience, yet with a quick exit.

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• 1988 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  What a stunning performance from the ’88 Guigal Brune et Blonde, as the nose opened with soil and undergrowth, yet quickly gained momentum as plum and herbs were joined by raw meat, animal musk and chalky minerals. On the palate, it was unbelievably rich for its age, yet refined, showing dried berry, citrus rind, savory broth, cracked pepper and dried spice. The medium-length finish was silky-soft. Very nice!

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• 2000 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 94 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  A true outlier from this ripe vintage, the 2000 Bartolo was classic and very youthful. The nose was tightly-coiled, showing dusty potpourri, rosy floral tones, dried cherry, herbs, undergrowth and minerals. On the palate, it was tense with fine tannin. With time in the glass, notes of tart cherry, soy, dark soil and inner floral tones became more apparent. Structured and clenched on the finish, yet still enjoyable. This could use another five-to-ten years in the cellar, yet it’s still stunning today.

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• 2000 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 90 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  The nose was forward and ripe with intense blackberry, minty herbs, pastry shell, and dark soil tones. On the palate, it was silky-smooth and dark, yet juicy and fun, showing minerals, and spiced, ripe blackberry. Long dark fruits and spice lingered on the finish with a hint of heat. This was good, but far from worthy of this producer.

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What can be said about a lineup of this quality? To get it out of the way, there was one disappointment in the 2002 Christoffel, yet in lesser company it may have excelled. As for the others, I place two of them among my absolute, top experiences with German wine to date. Scheurebe? I guess I need to do my homework, yet it’s so worth the exploration. As for Egon Muller; I am now a devoted fan. I am floor by the transformation these Auslese have undergone through the years. These were some of the most finessed, dare I say ethereal wines I have yet to taste.

• 1997 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese 92 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  The nose was pretty and finessed, surprisingly so, with notes of stone, tart lemon curd, flowers, and petrol. On the palate, I found fresh peach, green apple and flowers with juicy textures. Unbelievably finessed throughout the entire experience, leaving a pretty, yet petit fruit and floral finish.

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• 1997 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 94 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  The nose was like a morning bakeshop, showing sweet pastry, toasted butter, apricot tartlet, and honey. On the palate, it was remarkably finessed yet velvety-smooth with vibrant peach and sweetened sour cream. On the finish, this turned more to cleansing acidity, as notes of peach pit and citrus faded from memory.

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• 1997 Egon Müller/Le Gallais Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Auslese Auction 95 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  What a gorgeous and rich nose, showing dried peaches, apricot and spiced apple with sweet floral spice and toasty butter. Weighty yet perfectly balanced on the palate with intense baked apple and peach, along with mulling spice and butter. Long on the finish with honey-soaked peaches, yet vibrant all the same.

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• 2002 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese ** 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  The nose showed light peach and sweet floral notes. On the palate, it showed soft textures with citrus-tinged apple and inner floral tones which carried into its medium-length finish. This was fun and juicy but lacked character.

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• 2001 Müller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spätlese 95 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  Outrageously exotic and unique, totally unexpected and practically exploding from the glass with exotic spice, sweet florals, grapefruit, dried mango and hints of pepper. On the palate, it was rich and weighty, yet with vibrant acidity, showing pineapple, sweetened grapefruit, herbs and minerals. The finish fell slightly short of expectation, but how could I complain after all that had come before it? This is simply an incredible wine.

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