"Very Special" Dinner at Picholine OL

Picholine Wine Room, NYC
Tasted Wednesday, January 24, 2007 by trankin with 966 views

Introduction

The always lovely and knowledge-hungry KC put together a wonderful off-line last night at Picholine. As she said, "My idea is to bring a small group of 8 together for a very special night of wine and conversation."

Well - a very special night it was indeed.

In attendence were Kim, Gary & Cindy, Richard, Nano, Mark, Ramu, and myself.

The wines were selected based on Kim's instructions, and Picholine paired a menu to the wines.

Flight 1 - Champagne and Hors d'oeuvres (1 Note)

What better way to start the evening than with a nice bottle of Dom Perignon, from the fine 1985 vintage. This was served with a plate of hors d'oeuvres - a mushroom panacotta with a parmigiana tuile, a brandade, and a beet gazpacho. An interesting selection to pair with the wine.

  • 1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    A beautiful, elegant, and lively champagne. Pleasant pear on the nose, with a touch of brioche. On the palate, there's a notable citrus note - ultimately key lime is what I came to as the best descriptor - fairly sharp note with a bit of an acidic component. Lovely champagne. Very dry, a touch of toastiness. Solidly in the prime of its drinking window.

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Flight 2 - Lobster and White Wine (2 Notes)

These two whites were both elegant and enjoyable, and made for a wonderful pairing, and a contrasting pairing, with the dish - Warm Maine Lobster with caramelized endive, kumquat, and vanilla brown butter. The lobster worked beautifully with the Latour, and the whole dish paired beautifully with both wines.

  • 1995 Louis Latour Bâtard-Montrachet 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Nose of white flowers and a bit of vanilla. A light, elegant wine, with notes of pear and just a touch of oaky vanilla. Beautifully balanced. Some nice mineral elements - Mark called it oyster shell which seems about right. The only issue for me was this wine was lighter in body than I felt it should have been.

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  • 1989 Zind-Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Heimbourg Vendange Tardive 93 Points

    France, Alsace

    A lovely wine, and quite a contrast to the Latour. Nose of spicy apples and cinnamon, and maybe even some raisins. To me, drinking this wine was like drinking the perfect apple streudel. Beautiful apple and spicy notes, and I could even taste a bit of raisins - in a very good way. A hint of orange marmalade rounded this out. Very very enjoyable.

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Flight 3 - DRC & Pasta (1 Note)

Well - this was my first DRC, and something I was greatly looking forward to. The complexity of the wine was just wonderful, but to me it was like it had all these wonderful aromas and flavors, but they were all knotted up together. I had great difficulty pulling them apart, which I hope is something that will be resolved with a few more years in the bottle. The finish was a touch short, but overall I thought it was excellent.

Served with a Stracciata with sweet Maine shrimp, escargots and hazelnuts. A nice dish, but only a decent pairing.

  • 1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    An incredibly complex and huge, but rather tightly wound, nose on this wine. I'd love to smell this wine in 5-10 more years. Notes of briars and cloves. Some coffee and olive juice notes as well. There's so much in this nose, just waiting to come out. On the palate, this is still a bit tight, with lovely fruit and serious earthiness. Mossy, treebark, earthiness. Gives more with food, but this is still tight at this point. Unfortunately the finish is a bit short, and perhaps a touch acidic. I still loved this wine, but think it needs more time. There was certainly debate as to whether this would ever be really great.

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Flight 4 - The 89 Beau (1 Note)

This was the single wine I was most looking forward to trying tonight - and on a night like this, that's saying a LOT! Unfortunately, this bottle did not live up to the reputation that I've read so much about. Probably heat damaged somewhere along the way.

Served with a Wild Mushroom and Duck Risotto with butternout squash and black truffle butter. Decent dish but not one of my favorites.

  • 1989 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Flawed

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    There was much debate about the condition of this bottle. Certainly not corked, but also in no way showing what most of us hoped it might. I think the consensus wound up that this was mildly heat-damaged somewhere along the way. The nose was funky and earthy. On the palate, it was rather simple and round, with some earthiness showing through and some decent fruit. But nothing special at all.

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Flight 5 - Red Legs! (1 Note)

There was much trepidation and joking about this next dish - but what a wonderful dish it was. Definitely my DOTN!

Scottish Red-Legged Partridge with porcinis, Tokyo turnips, and foir gras sabayon. YUMMMMmmmm!!!!

And that's not even counting the wine, which quickly became my WOTN up to that point. Beautiful, elegant, and drinking perfectly! And a wondrous match for the red legs!

  • 1997 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    This bottle was just singing tonight. Really showed beautifully. The nose was gorgeous and very different. Bacon and smokiness, and a touch of something I could best describe as a soapy smell. (And I mean that in a good way, and no I don't think it was the glass) On the palate, there's some nice, dark, red fruit. Someone mentioned a bit of "furriness" on the palate, which, I have to say I could see. Never would have picked it out myself, but I can see how you'd think that. 95+ My #2 WOTN, Group's #2 WOTN.

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Flight 6 - Lambing out (1 Note)

Well, most of us enjoyed the wonderful Millbrook Venison with parsnip "pain perdu" and huckleberry just. A couple folks chickened (lambed?) out and had lamb prepared the same way. The venison anyway was perfectly cooked and was the most tender cut of venison I've ever had.

But my, oh, my the Palmer was just a wonderful wonderful wine. Drinking perfectly, and lovely throughout. I'm almost surprised anyone had another vote for WOTN this was so wonderful. But I GUESS there were a few other worthy wines! ;)

  • 1983 Château Palmer 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    WOW. Lovely nose of leather, earth and moss. Expressive and elegant. Gorgeous palate with lovely fruit. Perfect acids. Floral notes - violets, lavender. Pomegranate. A concentrated attack. Outstanding, lengthy finish. Just a beauty. And another one right in it's sweet spot. My unquestionable WOTN. Group's WOTN.

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Flight 7 - Cheese Please (1 Note)

Mark brought the mystery wine to go with the cheese course. We were all in the ballpark, but most of us were pretty much stuck in the bleachers on guessing this wine.

The cheeses were: Le Moulis, a sheep's milk cheese from the Pyrenees; Amondeiro, a sheep's milk cheese from Portugal, and Vacherin Fribourgeois, a cow's milk cheese from western Switzerland.

  • 1998 Château Pavie 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Mystery wine, served blind. Very concentrated nose with some wonderful floral elements. On the palate, this is pillowy soft and silky. No way this nose and this palate go together. So little structure and a bit too much oak for my taste. Some nice spice notes on top. I enjoyed the flavor profile, absolutely loved the nose, but the silkiness and softness of the palate left me wanting more.

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Flight 8 - And a Great Finish! (1 Note)

Chocolate Souffle with fennel ice cream and candied pine nuts.

The wine that needs no introduction. Clearly a wondrous wine. Just needs about a millenium.

  • 2001 Château d'Yquem 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Nose of bananas and caramel. On the palate, this is a lovely, harmonious wine. Notes of honey, lemon merinque pie, bananas. Really lovely but OH so young. Definitely not strutting what it will be capable of in a few years time, but very enjoyable today. Probably a 93-94 showing in my opinion, but undoubtedly will improve. My #3 WOTN, Group's #3 WOTN.

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Closing

Well - what can I say but THANKS to all the attendees for sharing a wonderful evening, bringing gorgeous wines and great conversation. What a fantastic evening! Certainly one I won't forget soon.

WOTN votes - 3pts for a first place vote, 2pts for 2nd, 1pt or 3rd:

WOTN - 83 Palmer with 18 points
#2 - Gerin La Landonne 97 with 15 points
#3 - d'Yquem 01 with 6 points
#4 - DRC with 4 points
#5 - Dom with 3 points

First time my 3 votes for WOTN matched the table's vote.

Thanks Kim for organizing and everyone or making it such a wonderful night!!!

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