A mid-winter visit to Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhône, France
Tasted Thursday, February 5, 2015 - Saturday, February 7, 2015 by Eric with 2,544 views
Introduction
Dan was visiting Bern, and we decided that a quick getaway to taste some wine would be great. Châteauneuf-du-Pape was just a five hour drive away, so off we went.
We caught the height of the mistral with 100km winds ripping the region throughout our stay. With weather always near 1C, the wind cut even deeper. However this made the hearty food and wine all that much more satisfying!
With some advice from Jeff Leve on where to stay and to eat, and some Googling, I was able to contact nearly all of my favorite wineries. Everyone was very accommodating on short notice. The wineries below are some of the most traditional in the region, and it was really a dream to get to visit them all. There is no doubt that 2012 was a big and ripe vintage, and those wines will take some time. I was really impressed with some of the 2007's I tasted, all of which have really settled down.
Flight 1 - Day 1: Le Vieux Donjon (4 Notes)
Claire Michel was our first stop on our trip, and it was a pleasure to taste such old school wines with her. Not flashy. Just honest, solid and very ageworthy.
Flight 2 - Day 1: Clos des Papes (the tasting room) (3 Notes)
Clos des Papes was our only stop without an appointment (they said one was not available or necessary). We started with a somewhat perfunctory tasting in the tasting room.
Flight 3 - Day 1: Clos des Papes (the cellar) (4 Notes)
Vincent Avril emerged from the cellar as I was in the midst of purchasing some wine after the tasting. He told us to grab a glass and invited us down. He was tasting some of his whites in preparation for a vertical of whites that he would be doing with his importer in Dallas soon, and we were the lucky beneficiaries. I was stunned at how well these were aging. Nothing shut down or awkward. Really impressive!
Flight 4 - Day 1: Dinner at La Table de Sorgues (1 Note)
What a gem of a restaurant!
I had never had a Barroche Pure before, so I figured it needed to be tried as we saw it on the list.
Flight 5 - Day 2: Domaine du Pégaü (8 Notes)
My favorite winery in the world, it was a joy to taste with Laurence. She is an endless fountain of information about the region, the vineyards, the wines, and the local politics. A tasting was followed by lunch at a nearby restaurant in town.
Flight 7 - Day 2: Domaine Charvin (11 Notes)
Wow what treat to taste with Laurent Charvin. I have always enjoyed his wines, and now I will always have the image of all of us clambering up atop the concrete tanks. This was a whirlwind tasting in cold conditions, but it made it all that much more satisfying. I have immense respect for the man and his excellent wines.
Flight 8 - Day 2: Château de Beaucastel (7 Notes)
We finished our day of tasting with a visit to Marc Perrin at Beacastel. He toured us through the simply stunning caves showing endless walls of bottles. (They have been stockpiling about 10% of most vintages to have future stashes to be able to sell from perfect conditions.) The bottles were pristine and all the best examples I have tasted of their respective vintages.
One revelation for me is that the gamy, wild aspect I like in Beaucastel Rouge seems to have more to do with the Mourvedre in the cooler vintages. The 1999 was stunning beyond belief!
Flight 9 - Day 2: Dinner at L'Oustalet Gigondas (1 Note)
We finished with the Grande Truffe menu at the fabulous L'Oustalet. We were the first ones into the restaurant, but by the time we left 3+ hours later it was warm and vibrant with every seat filled. One advantage of the February visit is that we were at the height of the black truffle season. The earthy richness and decadence of these was such a fun counterpoint to my memories of a trip to Alba in November and 3 days of white truffles. So different and so similarly wonderful!
Flight 10 - Day 3: Domaine Bois de Boursan (4 Notes)
And the final visit of a great three days was at one of the quiet stars of the appellation. It was such a pleasure to meet Jean Paul Versino and to taste his pure wines.
Flight 11 - Day 3: Dinner (1 Note)
After a long drive home, this was the last Châteauneuf-du-Pape of the weekend.
2014 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
(2/5/2015)
This was just bottled two weeks ago, but it was already showing well. A blend of 50% Clairette and 50% Roussanne. Honeysuckle and some nuts on a very tropical front end. An oily mid-palate with a mineral finish. 100% stainless. They really seek to emphasize the freshness here, and it is working. Lush and fun.
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2012 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
(2/5/2015)
Stem and berry burst from the glass. Wild aromatics with meat and licorice. The wine definitely reflects the whole cluster aspects that they generally try to retain for their Grenache (75% of the blend). White pepper, tight, pretty wound up. Very mineral.
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2009 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
(2/5/2015)
Dark and roasted. Very powerful with a sweet and juicy core. Excellent spice. Quite structured. Rather drying on the finish.
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2007 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
(2/5/2015)
An exotic nose. Soy and tar. This is really soft and pleasing, seemingly easy, but with great complexity and depth. Not at all overripe or overdone. This is the rare case of a 2007 that really works for me.
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