Ultimate Conterno versus Giacosa battle

Troquet
Tasted Wednesday, February 18, 2015 by BaroloRob with 1,250 views

Introduction

Organized a group of good friends to compare Monfortino to Giacosa Riserva in the best years. In attendance was Bruce, Michael, Rick, Maurice, Bill and Fred along with myself. Due to the generosity of all the participants, the lineup was outstanding.
Menu was as follows.

February 18, 2015

Amuse
1990 Krug, Brut

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Pan Roasted Vermont Quail
potato gnocchi, hedgehog mushrooms and black truffle emulsion

A) 2001 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva, Monfortino
B) 2001 Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga, Riserva
C) 1996 Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Falletto di Serralunga, Riserva

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Roasted Peking Duck Breast
puy lentils, seared foie gras dried cherry gastrique

D) 1990 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva, Monfortino
E) 1990 Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Falletto di Serralunga, Riserva
F) 1985 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva, Monfortino
G) 1985 Bruno Giacosa, Barolo Falletto di Serralunga, Riserva

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Roasted Veal Sweetbreads
veal cheek daube with cippiline onion agridoux

H) 1978 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva Speciale. Monfortino
I) 1978 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda di Serralunga, Riserva Speciale
J) 1971 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva Speciale, Monfortino
K) 1971 Bruno Giacosa, Barolo, Collina Rionda di Serralunga

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Assiette of Vermont Lamb
cous cous, eggplant and North African spices

L) 1964 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva, Monfortino
M) 1964 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Speciale
N) 1961 Giacomo Conterno, Barolo Riserva

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Dessert

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Flight 1 - Champagne toast (1 Note)

What can you say? 1990 Krug is great and a benchmark champagne. Lovely lemon and apple with impeccable balance. I am a fan of Krug.

Flight 2 - The young bucks (3 Notes)

The necessity of this flight was debated by the group, given that the wines are not really ready to drink. Still it was useful as a starting point to show the evolution of the maturation of barolo. Both of the 2001s were very good and will be spectacular one day.

Flight 3 - Waiting in the wings (4 Notes)

These wines are rounding the corner but not quite prime time. The 1990 Monfortino was the clear winner, followed by the 1985 Giacosa. As delicious as they were, I am confident they will be better in a decade.

Flight 4 - How did I stumble into this party full of supermodels? (4 Notes)

This is one of the best flights of wine that I have ever had. All the wines were off the charts. Initially the 1971 Giacosa was the clear winner and received the most votes for wine of the flight. However, after retasting the wines with food, the group became split between the two 1971s for wine of the night. The 1971 Monfortino was sexier and rounder versus the 1971 Giacosa which was deeper and more masculine. It was easy to flip back and forth between them as your favorite depending on the moment. These wines are roses in full bloom. The 1978 Monfortino is spectacular but still needs a half a decade to evolve into a fully mature barolo like the 1971s. The 1978 Giacosa was great but couldn't compete with the 1971s.

Flight 5 - A night with Katharine Hepburn (3 Notes)

In this flight the wines were past there peak but still very interesting and had a story to tell. It was like hearing the life story of Katharine Hepburn at the end of her career. Memorizing but you still find yourself distracted by the supermodels from the last flight. The group was split between the 1964 Monfortino and the 1961 Conterno riserva. The fruit had evolved into all tertiary flavors. Reminded me a bit of old Heredia Lopez.

Closing

An amazing night with so many fantastic wines. I learned a great deal about these wines having had the privilege of comparing them side by side. In the end, the 71s stole the show. The company and food were wonderful. One of the best wine dinners I can remember. In the end, there was no clear winner between these two great wineries. Giovanni Conterno and Bruno Giacosa were clearly unparalleled vintners in Piedmont.

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