Haut-Brion dinner

Tasted Saturday, February 21, 2015 by beatles with 682 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

Flight 2 (1 Note)

  • 2010 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru

    The concentration, the minerality, the mere tension here is crazy; sacrilegious, of course, to open this now, but it would have been equally blasphemic to turn it down, when someone offers ... I probably will never see this wine again, but if you have a stash, do not touch for ten years, I see absolutely no signs of premox here. A majestic wine.

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Flight 3 (1 Note)

  • 2008 Coche-Dury Meursault 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    A very typical Coche, a subtle mix between Puligny and old fashioned Meursault; very elegant tightly wound, minerals, citrus dominates, butter lingers behind, this is very young indeed, it will improve and merit a higher score, I think (served in tough company, vis-a-vis Montrachet from Laguiche)

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru

    Very, very young, with some herbal notes (almost) covering the elegant expression of the vineyard and the fruit. Still, this is burgundy showing elegance, grace, even lightness, but it will need time to come together. While this is of course on a high level, tasting vis-a-vis 2010, this goes to show the weakness of the 2009’s, when it comes to the top terroirs.

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  • 2009 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Even of the successor of Denis is less heavy in the oak, this is STILL heavy on the oak and the obvious vintage does not help; this is quite open, very rich, loads of pinot here, a plentiful wine, that will probably merit a higher score, if given time to settle down

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

  • 1995 Château Haut-Brion 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    First HB of the night - served blind. Impressive wine, a tell-tale Haut-Brion – and surprisingly strong for the vintage - I was actually guessing 1996, which says something. It has tobacco, black cassis, minerals, a firm backbone and a very solid body – all in balance. This will keep a decade or longer, but it is coming around.

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Flight 6 (1 Note)

  • 1982 Château Haut-Brion 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    This is right up there with the best of them, in complete harmony, and yet with a lot of backbone still here, HB at it’s best. The tobacco and cassis notes are great, the somewhat dusty, serious exterior is drawing attention, there is an Imperial, majestic feature to this, it tells the stories of The Reform Club – a woman is only a woman, but a good cigar is a smoke etc. A historic wine - and it will keep a decade longer, easy.

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Flight 7 (1 Note)

  • 1990 Château Haut-Brion 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A very classic example of both the wine and the vintage; it is smooth, almost creamy, a little warm in the style, vanilla interferes with the tobacco notes, a hint of the south here. Hard to resist, and I doubt it will become any better than this.

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Flight 8 (1 Note)

  • 2011 Château Haut-Brion 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Tastes great, just way to young – and really no reason to open one now. The juice is here, but what it will be, is hard to say – certainly a lighter vintage and the weakest HB of the night, a rather plain (in comparison), albeit abundant fruit, but somewhat lacking the HB character. Try in ten years to get more of that tobacco & smoke, let it bngrow to be a man ...

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Flight 9 (1 Note)

  • 1989 Château Haut-Brion 98 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    WOTN and just overwhelming in it’s masculine charm, everything in the right place. You could talk about tobacco, minerals, some sexy sweetness of fruit, spices et al, but music comes to mind - Bach, Symphoni no. 3, F Minor ... ;)

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Flight 10 (1 Note)

  • 2005 Château Haut-Brion 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    This reminded me somewhat of the 1995 – just much younger, of course. It is a firm wine, very concentrated, quite closed (a crime, really, to open it now) but with promises of future greatness. I love it’s cool, very European Old World style with minerals, tobacco, black fruit all tied up in a fist. Tannic in a good way. Try in five years.

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