Colicchio & Sons, New York
Tasted Friday, February 27, 2015 by drwine2001 with 1,065 views
Nice to be inside tasting through these wines on a cold winter day in New York. My apologies in advance for skipping a few producers and for the brief, impressionistic nature of these notes, but you can only absorb so much in a 2 hour walk around tasting. For each producer, I have noted them in the order that they were poured.
I think it's fair to say that these were the most uncompromising, old school wines shown today. No fluff or sweetness to be found.
Impressive older wines that were quintessential Volnays
Three distinctly different wines in this fascinating flight
Tasting his wines was a highlight of the weekend. These 3 wines were deeply colored, expertly extracted, and complex. Fantastic!
Although the sample sizes were limited, here's what I took away about the current state of recent vintages:
2002-Lovely reds that are largely drinking really well now. Thinking about it, early on they showed a lot of the red fruited charm that the 2012s have, although maybe the acidity was higher. I wouldn't be upset if the newer vintage followed this trajectory.
2003-Continues to surprise with some reds that have amazing amounts of freshness despite their ripeness (see Clos de Tart for example).
2004-Blech. No magical evolution here.
2005-Still hard as nails. I keep pushing back my projected drinking windows eve at the lower levels. I think we have to take the 1988 approach and not touch them before 20 years of age.
2006-Whites continue to be a mess. Many reds are a pleasure now, even many of the bigger boys.
2007-Many of the whites seem frail. When the reds aren't too meager, they are aromatic and drinking well.
2008-My admiration for whites has only increased. Looking at my notes, the '08 was often the best vintage for producers from virtually all of the white wine regions, north to south. On the other hand, the reds are dichotomous. Those vinified in a leaner style can be punishingly acidic and devoid of fruit, but I'm impressed with how many refined beauties are out there as well and how slowly but surely they've unfolded over the last few years. I wish I owned more of the reds (only the good ones, of course!).
2009-The more I taste, the less I like, and that goes for wines of both colors. There are some profound ones when the acidity is right, but to find them, you have to wade through a minefield of overripe mediocrities.
2010-Not enough of these poured at this event to shape my opinion
2011-Whites okay but unexciting, reds range from good to disastrous when they are destroyed by greenness, and I've encountered too many of the latter to feel sanguine about the future of these red wines.
2009 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Medium yellow. Some citrus and chalk but overall pretty woody and dull. On its way out even in this format.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2008 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Beautiful, classic mix of citrus, sea shell, dynamite acidity, great density, and long, stony finish. Head and shoulders above the wines from the flanking vintages.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue
2007 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Magnum. Sound medium color but reticent nose and dilute flavors with little remaining fruit. As good as the '08 was, this was really disappointing and curious. Can it really be this much past its prime so soon, or was this just off? No time to go back and try a different bottle.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue