2013 Acker BYO at TriBeCa Grill

New York City
Tasted Tuesday, December 17, 2013 by Matt Neel with 494 views

Introduction

Another night of debauchery and generosity. Good fun.

Flight 1 (13 Notes)

  • 2002 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Greenish-straw. big rich nose, mineral, oak, petrol, honeysuckle, lemon curd -- I like it! (which is somewhat rare for me, being the one person on planet Earth who isn't moved by C-D); steel; a very precise nose -- pointillist, even. The palate is round and ripe with excellent acidity but also shows charm and sweet fruit; pretty primary, though; give it time. Good, long butterscotch finish. Nice wine!

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  • 1993 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque

    France, Champagne

    Straw. The nose is immediately extremely toasty -- burnt toast. That blew right off, fortunately, revealing pristine minerals and white flowers (think lemon flowers); oyster shells. The palate has a very fine mousse and is youthful, yet; good citrus fruit. Very fine length with a little brioche and spice French toast at the tail end. Terrific, and pleasantly a bit on the delicate side of things.

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  • NV Maurice Vesselle Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Reservée Brut

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Pale straw. Has a whistle-clean nose of cream and minerals upon minerals -- quite deep and and appealing. The palate has beautiful balance, good, active mousse, terrific acidity and very fresh, bright fruit. A food wine for sure! Lovely and long. "Refreshing" seems like the right word to use to describe this wine in a nutshell...

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  • 2002 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Pale gold. The nose is closed up tight -- lemon and minerality are all that show now. The palate is very dense and packed with pitfruit and glycerin; huge, showing the ripe vintage, but totally primary. The class of the wine really shows on the finish with butter and butterscotch; tremendous length. Has plenty of oak but not at all too much. Terrific. Absolutely freaking stellar with poached lobster and roasted fennel. Beautiful wine! (From magnum)

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  • 1990 Alain Robert Champagne Blanc de Blancs Reserve Le Mesnil

    France, Champagne

    Gold straw. The nose shows a fair bit of oxidation right away, then pure, bespoke orangesicle, furniture lacquer. The palate is big and rich with a mellow, settled mousse; oxidation shows but is welcome and appealing; more cream and orange. Sports a long, earthy finish. I found this to be a bit of a bruiser -- food wine. Terrific.

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  • 1973 R. López de Heredia Rioja Reserva Viña Tondonia

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Bricked ruby. It's fairly stinky on the nose, sewage, but also minerally cherry, dried blood/iron; cocoa powder; later matchsticks and wet firecrackers join up to make it a party. The palate is certainly mature and thinning but the dried cherry fruit is hanging on; there is more cocoa but no leather. Has a little length to it. Good but DRINK UP, good lord -- it's got nowhere good to go from here...

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  • 1976 Bodegas Olarra Rioja Gran Reserva

    Spain, La Rioja, Rioja

    Very pretty ruby, well bricked. Lovely nose of roses and horsepiss and a little leather. The palate is tangy, sorbet-tinged fruit, bright fresh cherry; then more roses. Light in body, with good length. Thirstquenching and mouthwatering. Delicious, though not attention-grabbing -- Just like Sammy, whose wine it was... :-) (from magnum)

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  • 1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    Bricking almost-opaque blood. Big, big, dusty, mineral nose; just an immense nose; tobacco, iron, porcini mushroom, licorice, iron/blood, bitter chocolate; wow! The palate is a beast, offers a hit of sweet cherry then wham! the tannic hammer comes down. The fruit is wild and complicated -- Jalapeño chili, cherry, cranberry, mulberry, roasted herbs. Freaking awesome, but not for the faint of heart. Good, not great, tannic and youthful finish. Miles to go before it sleeps, miles to go before it sleeps. Later, the nose became super umami saturated -- nori, kelp, and other weird, saline mysteries... (my wine)

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  • 1978 Domaine Michel Gaunoux Pommard 1er Cru Les Grands Épenots

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru

    Bricking blood. A very lifted, sorbet-bright nose bursts right forth -- roses, wild strawberry, fabulously deep and haunting -- wowy!! The palate is less amazing but still really good; sweet cherry fruit, quite zippy, tangy acidity, and grippy tannins. Good length. Really an excellent wine, impeccably balanced.

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  • 1990 Georges Lignier et Fils Clos St. Denis

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru

    Bricking blood. Big, fresh rose, strawberry sorbet nose -- rather 85-ish, actually; then a little heat and bacon fat shows, but it is still impressively fresh; very open and inviting and chock-full of spices. The palate is very similar, with fresh, high-toned red fruit; sorbet; and a little heat. Nice length, with a little lacquer and, again, a little heat. Really a nice wine, with a paradoxical heat/fresh balance to it. Tasty!

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  • 1978 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

    Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

    Deep blood. The nose is raisiny and classic, some oxidation is evident (and expected). The palate is similar, chocolatey. Good length. This needs time and was brooding and tight; try in 5+ years.

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  • 1995 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Blood. Nose was snarly and gnarly, the palate angular and harsh. Not showing for me tonight. Judgment reserved. (from magnum)

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  • 2001 Domaine Leroy Clos Vougeot

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    Deep blood ruby. Beautiful sweet sorbet nose but impossible to dig into it much because it is so primary; cherry, rose, cranberry -- very red. The palate is the same, all the elements are there, it's just that they're in differentiable at this stage. Very, very, very fresh and bright and crisp and pure -- I have a hard time believing this is a Domaine Leroy Côtes de Nuits based on its fruit profile. Phenomenally long with spectacularly precise balance. User friendly, despite its primariness. I would hold it for several more years, yet, but it is also genuinely delicious to drink now.

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