2013 Wines in Bottle Chez Vincent Dauvissat

The theme of the day was the opportunity to meet and be guided by daughters of 2 of the great winemakers in Chablis. We were shown this range by Etiennette Dauvissat while her father was out doing what the great vignerons always seem to be doing-working! As at other addresses in Burgundy, Etiennette related the many challenges posed by this vintage. You certainly could not prove it by the results. There was absolutely nothing "off vintage" about these wines. Compared to the most recent Dauvissat vintages, I'd probably place 2013 ahead of 2011 but behind 2010 and 2012.

• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Petit Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis

  Dry, light, crackling acidity. Good entry level wine.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Slightly fuller than the Petit Chablis with green tones and more salinity. As usual, more than the usual AC Chablis.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  While this had the usual focus and acidic drive, I thought that this Sechet had more flesh than usual, although it is still a clean, lean example at its core.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  More ripe citrus (orange more than lemon) aromatics than any of the 3 wines which preceded it. Rounder and more immediately inviting and friendly as well due to acidity which is beautifully buffered by the fruit. Excellent early showing.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  In a way the synthesis of Sechet structure, Vaillons fruit and breadth, and an added dollop of intensity and broth character. As is often the case, the best of the Premier Crus with a long life ahead of it. Outstanding wine.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Apparently first time produced since 2005. Honestly, of all of the Premier Crus, this was the only disappointment, and it bore a stronger resemblance to the AC Chablis, seemingly with less of everything than the Forest. Curious that this was shown after that wine-maybe I'm missing something here.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  This was most aromatically forward wine in the range with all sorts of green herb and primordial algal scents. In the mouth, brothy, downplayed apple fruit, terrific acidity, wonderful texture and sap, and long finish. Easily the best wine of the flight and the unique, mysterious glory of Chablis fully expressed.

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• 2013 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Deceptive pale greenish color. Bigger and lusher than the Preuses. Tart lemon on the nose and palate, excellent concentration and acidity, more finishing minerality than the other Grand Cru. For all of these positives, I found it more monochromatic and less interesting today than the Preuses. Would I/did I buy it? Absolutely. However, during our stay in Burgundy, we also tasted the 2009 and 2010 Clos. This would be a step behind both of those wines, lacking the mind-blowing structure and punch of the 2010, and the depth and generosity of the 2009 (which is generally not a Chablis vintage that I love).

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• 2001 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  As is Vincent Dauvissat's wont, his daughter also finished the tasting with a wine served blind. Full yellow. Ripe, honeyed nose. Fairly viscous and full bodied with more saline Chablis character than on the nose. Good remaining acidity and freshness but fully mature. I guessed something like 1997 or 1998 but was off by a few years. A very good showing for a 2001, and of course, a treat to taste at the conclusion of this wonderful visit.

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