Taberna del Alabardero, Washington D.C.
Tasted Wednesday, April 22, 2015 by dcwino with 976 views
Mr. Bernard Burtschy, the wine writer for Le Figaro and a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member and Mr. Pierre Lurton of Cheval Blanc and D’Yquem were in town for the Heart's Delight. Bijan organized a dinner in their honor. Twelve of us got together at Taberna del Alabardero to drink what else, but Cheval Blanc and D’Yquem. I was extremely happy and felt very privileged to attend the dinner since Cheval Blanc and Vieux Chateau Certan are my two favorite right bank properties. Also I have always considered D'Yquem to be a unique terroir and step above almost all Sauterns/Barsac, perhaps Climen being the only exception in certain vintages. This event strongly reaffirmed my love for Cheval Blanc and D’Yquem.
I was busy opening the bottles and thought this was the 96 Churchill. Was it the power of suggestion? I thought the 96 Pol Roger showed exceptionally well and others agreed, though might not have rated as high as 97 pts. I discussed the greatness and the remarkable consistency of the luxury cuvee champagnes in general and Dom in particular. We also agreed that some folks misjudge young Dom and don’t recognize the importance of aging them.
My 04 sensitivity and love bias for Raveneau kicked in.
Pierre explained the methodology of picking the grapes for Ygrec. He mentioned that with age, perhaps the great Alsatian Riesling may be stylistically similar to Ygrec. We also discussed the lack of demand for Sauterns and the need for the properties to re-invent themselves.
The 37 from the same source as the last showed a lot better. I really wish I was little more careful extracting the cork. A few thought the 79 was corked but I took it as musty/dirty cellar smell.
The 82 was singing and some picked as their WOTN. It was an exceptinal showing and I rated 95 pts, not quite perfect but certainly not in the low 90s. The 90 was my WOTF, really hedonistic.
This is the weakest flight yet they all were quite enjoyable, especially the nose.
These are three monumental wines that will become the legends in a few decades.
According to Pierre, Mr. Arnault approached him regarding making great wines in Argentina. After traveling to Argentina and tasting the 71 Norton, he was convinced and the rest is history. The fruit expression is quite opulent and generous and hints towards the new world. However the wines are age worthy with bright acidity and strong presence of tannins.
This was simply an exclamation point on a memorable evening!
This was a great event and my sincere gratitude goes to Bijan for organizing and Bernard and Pierre for their presence and sharing their insights. A great time was had by all!
2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne 92 Points
France, Champagne
As Bernard Burtschy pointed out, this was pretty tight. Fresh white fruits, citrus, granny smith, white pepper and mineral. Medium concentration, fine mousse, good acidity and clean medium finish. It is interesting that the 02 has opened up beautifully all of sudden in the last few months where the 00 remains youthful. Also this is more linear/cooler but less concentrated than the 02. For my palate the 02 is superior, about three points higher in general. Still very nice way to start.
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1996 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut 97 Points
France, Champagne
It was a big crowd for a sommelier so I helped open the bottles and I just assumed that this was the 96 Churchill but turned out that it was the regular vintage. Having said that this was my note.
“This was absolutely seeing from the get go. Fully matured and its peak, displaying beautiful sweet yellow fruits, apple tart, apple peel, ginger, spicy spices and mineral. Exceptional concentration, fine mousse, intensely sweet yellow fruit driven palate impression, bright acidity and lovely seamless finish. This is a great example of the 96 luxury cuvee champagne, ie very hedonistic with generous concentrated sweet fruits yet also very precise due to the bright acidity. I highly recommend.”
This showed exceptional well but thinking this was the Churchill influenced my score? I still highly recommend.
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