Night Two in Paris

A bit trite I suppose, but such a unique restaurant, with a deft family touch, and of course an overwhelming passion for wine. The food was not remarkable, to be honest, but this is mainly a reflection of the wine focus. We started with a glass of their house Champagne but I quickly moved to the still wine.

• 1996 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

  From a magnum. Fully evolved and light bodied. Gracious and savory, though clearly past the peak and slowly gliding downhill. Lovely spice and muted citrus palate, harmonious and balanced, with a toasted nut minerality but only a touch of acidity left. I found some slate on the finish.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2011 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton Domaine Prince Florent de Merode 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  Our host thought he had grabbed a 2009, the first of this cuvee, but the 2011 was very approachable. Inviting nose with classic aromatics: raspberries, blackberries and spice, balanced and expressive. On the palate, it was very earthy, with minerals and saline dominating alongside notes of menthol and mocha. Light-bodied and delicious.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 1997 Château Haut-Brion 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  From a magnum. This so outperformed expectations I can hardly believe it. Fresh and gravelly nose balanced with floral aromatics and, of course, sweet dark fruits. Just entering the secondary stage in my view, with a palate dominated by lots pure, balanced dark fruits and layers of gravel and tobacco, without a hint of greenness. Fine tannin and structure, a soft, graceful finish with admirable persistence. Later in the evening, I could not help but notice a striking resemblance to well-aged Nebbiolo, with violets and licorice emerging.

  Read 1 Comment / Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 1989 Château Latour Grand Vin 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  From a magnum. Not a standout for me, hardly flawed yet nothing soared either. A yeasty, unyielding nose that did not seem to soften over time. Clean and full texture, with very high acidity. Notes of black fruit, ripe plum, walnuts, graphite and smoky forest floor, along with what I would deem to be green tannins.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 1996 Château d'Yquem 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Still a baby, with a medium golden color and a nose of apricots, lychee and honey. A somewhat simple palate for an Yquem, lacking the vibrant acidity I look for, but a lovely Sauternes nonetheless, with decades ahead of it.

  Post a Comment / 1 person found this helpful, do you? Yes - No / Report Issue

Is there a better view in Paris?