The Icon Vs. The Iconoclast: Giacomo Conterno & Luciano Sandrone
Morrell Wine Bar
Tasted Thursday, May 14, 2015 by Eric Guido with 630 views
Introduction
Who would have thought to put a producer known for being one of the bastions of traditional winemaking in Piedmont against another producer who is famous for eschewing the old ways, being one of the most forward-thinking, often labeled “Modern,” winemakers in the region? Our tasting group, of course.
For the full spread with comments, photos and more, go to: http://morrellwinebar.com/the-icon-vs-the-iconoclast-an-epic-barolo-tasting/
Flight 1 - 2000 & 1997 (2 Notes)
Something of an oddball flight that ended up with wines from two highly-acclaimed vintages which simply haven’t lived up to the hype. It’s amazing how, to this very day, people will try to sell me 2000 and 1997 Barolo on the vintage hype. It makes me wonder how often these same people are tasting the wines. The fact is that both of these were probably beautiful in their day, yet the characteristics of the vintage have taken their toll.
Flight 2 - 1998 -- The Drinking Vintage (3 Notes)
1998 has become known as the Barolo vintage of the late nineties to drink now, and this selection was a great example of why. All three were beautiful, but the Conterno really took the prize for its incredible freshness and purity of fruit. However, I would be remiss not to mention how absolutely stunning the ’98 Le Vigne was on this night. There was a moment when we went back and forth between it and the Cascina Francia, splitting hairs over which was the more beautiful wine. Also, with a hefty dose of Ceretta fruit in the Le Vigne, it showed many of the Serralunga qualities we were looking for in the Cascina Francia.
Flight 3 - 1999 - Utterly Classic (3 Notes)
Last year, our group revisited the 1999 vintage in a horizontal of some of the best wines of the region. The diagnosis was that ’99 represents one of the most classic years from the Barolo vintage streak of the late nineties. Tonight was yet another example of just how amazing this vintage is. The ’99 Monfortino was epic to say to the least, yet we did go back and forth between it and the Cascina Francia, trying to decide which was which–showing that the ’99 Cascina Francia is a gorgeous wine and should be in all of our cellars, even at its current price.
Flight 4 - 1996 - For The Long Haul (3 Notes)
Where do you go after 1999 in Barolo? You go to 1996, of course. The ‘96s represent a vintage which comes across as impossibly young. The better modern producers seemed to have hit gold in ’96 (Domenico Cleric CMG and Azelia Bricco Fiasco come to mind), as the wines have been drinking beautifully. However, as modern ‘96s go, on two occasions, I’ve found the Sandrone to be good, but far from great. However, as far Giacomo Conterno is concerned, I believe these wines may be immortal, especially the Monfortino, which was as tight as a drum. Unfortunately, the word is out on these wines, and acquiring them can be costly.
Flight 5 - Greatness Realized (3 Notes)
An epic tasting must have at least one epic flight—at this tasting, there were two. The ‘99s were a revelation for us, but the combination of the two ‘90s and the Conterno ’85 was otherworldly. Rating these wines was a difficult task, and I’m very lucky to have been able to revisit them to watch their evolution. Both of these vintages were considered warmer years, and this was a true testament to how the better producers can make great wine no matter what Mother Nature gives to them. As for the Cascina Francia, I almost shed a tear when I think about my old stash, which has been completely depleted. If you can afford them, buy them!
Closing
In closing, I must admit to having fully enjoyed the Barolo of Luciano Sandrone. Having been a fan of Giacomo Conterno for over a decade, I had expected to come away from this tasting confirmed in my notion that the Sandrone wines would pale in comparison, yet they truly held their ground. What’s more, even for the lower-scoring wines, I can only image that they would have fared better if not placed next to some of the giants on our table this night. My eyes have been opened, and I have a feeling that I’ll be drinking more Sandrone down the road.
For the full spread with comments, photos and more, go to: http://morrellwinebar.com/the-icon-vs-the-iconoclast-an-epic-barolo-tasting/
1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 88 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The nose showed a mix of moist earth, minerals, musky cedar and olive brine. On the palate, I found tart red berry fruit in a sappy, yet somewhat muddled expression. Dried red fruits and musky tones lingered on the finish. The question came up if this is over the hill, or possibly damaged, yet the bottle was stored properly since release. It may just be that some ‘97s are fading fast.
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2000 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 89 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
The nose was restrained at first, showing dark berry tones; yet with coaxing, it began to release a bouquet of cranberry and minty herbs with a hint of cedar. On the palate, I found radiant, focused fruit with hints of spice in a very pretty and brilliant expression of Nebbiolo. Gruff tannin coated the palate throughout the finish, yet with a lack of balancing fruit and acidity.
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