Beijing dumpling night Chez Moi (courtesy of Grace)

It was my mum in-law Grace's last night in HK, so Mrs L decided to put her to work making 200 dumplings for a group of usual suspects. If there was magic in the dough and filling, I couldn't quite see what it was, but it was certainly magic in those dumplings that my tough old mum in-law from Beijing whipped up this evening. There was also a giddy assortment of cold dishes, which disappeared at lightning speed. My only contribution was the wines, and a mediocre attempt at duck pancakes using a duck confit that I'd had in the fridge for a week. But this was an accommodating crowd, so mediocre though they were, the pancakes were gobbled up without much fuss. There was a mild panic when we ran out of black vinegar towards the end of the evening; which was fine by me as I don't touch the stuff. I steered people towards the Clos des Papes instead...

• 2012 Voyager Estate Sémillon Sauvignon Blanc Tom Price 93 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  Crispy and lemon zesty, with notes of pear and green apple. Nicely rounded and drinking nicely, perfect for a hot summer evening

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• 2010 Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Tom Price 95 Points

  Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

  What a pleasant surprise to be the first to review this wine on CT. This was one of 4 bottles I purchased directly from the estate during a visit earlier this year. Before that, my last experience with the Tom Price was a superb bottle of 1995 about a decade ago. This encounter doesn't disappoint. Mrs. L had opened a bottle the night before, and there was half left in the fridge for a decent tasting. Dark and inky, with a smoky mineral-rich cassis nose that is quintessentially cabernet. On the palate were powerful layers of fruit that displayed a beautiful ripe character. Very young but already showing subtleness and complexity. Velvety juicy finish. Something to buy and put away for a good decade. First rate Aussie cab. (Beautiful estate too, well worth a visit if passing thru Margaret River!)

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• 2000 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon 95 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Dark inky purple. Black berries, licorice, rocks and dry forest in the nose (did I imagine that last one? I swear that's what I thought of...) Plush fine and velvety on the palate, not a hint of heaviness, but what flavor! Nicely rounded already at nearly 15 years of age, this wine is enjoyable now. But the swirling black depths of fruit beneath are hinting that this wine could outlast me.

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• 2004 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  My third and last magnum. Rich and smooth as I remembered, with a heady nose of dark berries and licorice. The palate is more refined than your usual CDP, partly because the alcohol is so neatly tucked away at the back of the fruit. The finish is long and velvety. This wine is very enjoyable, except that after a couple of glasses, it starts to get a bit heavy (for my taste)...

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