Tasted Friday, July 3, 2015 by HowardNZ with 1,138 views
Aldo Vacca the Managing Director of Produttori del Barbaresco was generous to spend half a day with us in Barbaresco. We began beneath the 1,000 year old Barbaresco tower, with the Tanaro River below us and the Ovello vineyard in the distance, where Aldo explained the geology and geography of the area and the history of Produttori.
We then drove around various vantage points to see most of Produttori's vineyards.
We stopped first to see Asili and Rabajà, in the direction of Marchesi di Gresy's monopole Martinenga, with Pora in the distance and Rio Sordo below. We then stopped to view Muncagato and Montestfano, with their full south aspects. Further along we saw my favourite Produttori vineyard, Montefico, with Ovello over the hill. We stopped for a better view of Rabajà and then at Produttori's second winery close to Ovello.
Aldo described the recent vintages in relation to the Riservas:
2007: 'A strange vintage' said Aldo. He said that between 20 September and 2 October none of the numbers changed. Now Aldo describes it as 'seamless, a perfect vintage'. He really rates the 2007 Riservas.
2008: A vintage Aldo likes with the Riservas: 'a bright burst of intense fruit'.
2009: A 'warmer, softer, full, rich and powerful' vintage for earlier drinking.
2010: No Riservas made to preserve the quality of the Normale.
2011: Aldo described the 'super ripe vintage' which in his view gives a clear vintage characteristic. He said his '11s were 'perhaps a little New World'. The closest vintage he could compare them with was 1990. He said that he didn't expect them to be cellared very long-term, noting that 'about 20 years' was about the life of the '90s. He described the wines as 'sweet, drinkable young'. Tasting them, I was initially surprised, expecting them to be more classical 2004-like, based on the early reports. However, not being very familiar with 1990 Barbareschi, to me, they seemed like a cross between the '09s and '04s, but closer to the '09s.
2012: No Riservas because they would have been 'less interesting', according to Aldo.
2013: Definitely Riservas. Great potential, based on Aldo's comments and the four we tasted. Aldo was pleased because 2013 is the first good '3' Barbaresco vintage since 1923.
2014: Probably Riservas. 'A better year in Barbaresco than in Barolo', said Aldo.
We asked Aldo if we could taste some '13s before our main tasting of '11s in bottle. It was only a quick tasting of four Riservas, from 25 HL Botti, that Aldo was happy for us to see. I was very impressed with the potential quality of the samples tasted. Just quick impressions however ...
The 2011s were bottled less than a month before we tasted them. Aldo was interested in our reaction because ours was the first tasting of the lineup in bottle.
Aldo said he thought that the '11s might hit their peak relatively early, in 10-15 years.
Unsurprisingly, Aldo is still thinking about the optimal ordering of these wines but the below reflected his current thinking. Typically he orders a tasting of Riservas from most approachable to the most structured and dense. He is particularly still thinking about the placement of the Muncagato. Also, the Rabajà was placed relatively early and the Ovello relatively late. It will be interesting to see if the order is the same for our next tasting of '11s in NZ ...
Given their rich and opulent style and accessibility, and that vaguely New World quality, I can see the 2011 Riservas being very popular ...
I think these sites and wines are great for us wine lovers. They give us endless complexities to think about each vintage they are made (geology, aspect, effect of the vintage on the particular site etc) ... but may present some issues in marketing. Aldo said with a smile one of his importers (I will not name) had said to him 'Nine vineyards is a good number, just six too many. Do more Rabajà!'
Thanks very much Aldo! I look forward to seeing you on your next NZ visit!
I'll shortly post notes on our lunch with Aldo and Renato Vacca of Cantina del Pino at Trattoria Antica Torre in Barbaresco.
2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
A beautiful bouquet of rose hips, bright cherries and other dark fruit and spices. You could sense the structure and depth on the nose. On palate, very attractive and approachable. I could drink this Rabajà now! Good freshness and acidity. Ultra-fine tannins. The big structure of this wine hits you on the back palate. This is a serious, high quality wine. Very long. This Rabajà could be quite special.
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2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
I'm probably biased because the Montefico is typically my favourite Riserva however I thought there was also great potential here. A nose of dark cherry and black liquorice with a mineral backbone. Surprisingly drinkable, yet to close down. Classical Montefico in structure, acidity and tannins. Good freshness. Deep dark fruit, some menthol and finishing long, chalky and mineral.
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2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
A contrast. On the nose, brighter, red cherries and dried herbs, a slightly jubey feel. Racy acidity on the front palate. Those red cherries, red currants, raspberries and other red fruit flavours are the first impression and then the structure and the grippy tannins hits you on the finish. Actually, there is quite a lot of weight and tannin in the Ovello. Very good, I suspect, but this wine will need major cellar time.
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2013 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
The Rio Sordo was in barrel almost a year to the day said Aldo. Deep, bright red colour. The first sample was 'aytpical' according to Aldo, seeming too reduced, chemical, spritzy and drying on the finish. A second sample from another tank was much more 'correct'. A nose of clean red berries and, in the mouth, sweeter and quite pinot-like. Crystalline red fruit. After a relatively sweet entry, a succulent, juicy mid palate, the back end was very tight and grippy.
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