The Square
Tasted Thursday, July 16, 2015 by SimonG with 458 views
A fascinating and fun evening. Reading through the notes as I typed them I did wonder whether I'd been a bit generous, but these weren't rustic second cousins, but well made wines that transcended grape and presumably relatively humble terroir. Some serious winemaking on show here. The PYCM classic PYCM and fantastic vfm, the Coche showing its class after a near miss with TCA, both the Leroy and the d'Auvenay remarkable for different reasons, the latter being talked about in good Grand Cru terms, and after that impossibly hard act to follow, the two Entes breazed though effortlessly. An inspired choice of venue for this too.
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne-Aligoté 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Smoke, a touch of oak. Mineral. Clean and fresh on the attack. Nicely zingy. A bit wider and richer as it opens on the mid palate. Reasonably bracing finish. Stylish and lovely. ****
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2012 Comte Armand Bourgogne-Aligoté 87 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Riper on the nose. A touch of lime but opens up to a peach stone and roasted nectarine roundness. Quite fat in the glass and on the mid palate. Some grip through the middle but a touch flabbier. A little smoker too with air. ***
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2013 Buisson-Charles Bourgogne-Aligoté 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Very clean and slightly smoky on the nose. Mineral, linear and really quite taut. Lean and lithe. ***1/2
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2009 A. et P. de Villaine Aligoté Bouzeron 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Bouzeron
Fatter and rounder. A touch of vanilla. Holds some line but it is fatter and richer and broader than previous wines. Finely chalky against that richer backdrop. ***
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2009 Coche-Dury Bourgogne-Aligoté 91 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Some discussion as to whether it's corked. Maybe just the occasional whiff but it feels more bottle stinky than corked. Opens to a rounded vanilla, quite rich, but cut with a touch of the vegetal. A touch of honey with air. Lots of interest here. ****
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2008 Domaine Leroy Bourgogne-Aligoté Flawed
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Horrendously reduced nose. Really horrible. Difficult to get past the nose. Lean and clean on the palate, but ponky. Really ponky.
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2009 Domaine d'Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Bourgogne-Aligoté Sous Chatelet 94 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Darker colour. Mid straw. Gorgeous nose, reminds me of mature Leflaive. Lots of toasty hazelnut and oatmeal biscuit. A whiff of oak too. Wonderfully rich and full and intense. A five star nose. The acidity and fresh line comes through on the back end. Long, but lacks a little weight and intensity through the back end. ****1/2
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2011 Arnaud Ente Bourgogne-Aligoté 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
A little less harmonious than the 12. A little more edgy with a whiff of swimming pool initially. Opens up to a hazel nut richness though less intensely so than the d'Auvenay. Similar profile to the 12. A little cleaner and slightly more linear. ****
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2012 Arnaud Ente Bourgogne-Aligoté 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Fresh, clean, light on the nose with a touch of mint. Floral, light elegant, but a subtle intensity. Very rounded in a complete rather than blowsy manner. Long, elegant, silky. Very fine. More harmonious than the d'Auvenay if less exuberant and striking. ****
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