Burgundy WIMPS

With Cep arancini

• 1996 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année

  France, Champagne

  Pale/med straw, hints of gold. Lemon, autolysis. Very light/negligible mousse, notable oxidative edge, quite lean with bright, lemony acidity, medium length finish. **

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Roast monk tail with cobnuts, device pumpkin, elderberry capers and beurre noisette

• 2008 Domaine Roulot Monthélie 1er Cru Champ Fulliot

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Monthélie 1er Cru

  Pale/medium gold, though rather oddly seemed to lighten with time in glass. Initially quite rich, buttery with a prominent oxidative ess, but freshening to become more floral and indeed quite fresh and tangy on the finish. ***(?).

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• 2007 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  Pale lemon. Discreet, minerally nose, green apple, slight touch of sesame. Youthful. Medium bodied, mineral, spice, some tropical fruit, deep, vibrant, complex and long. Excellent, this bottle could do with a few more years ***(*1/2).

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• 1971 Robert Ampeau & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Bright, medium gold. Lovely, mature, complex nose showing butter, ripe stone fruit and a lovely aromatic florality. Medium/full bodied, rich, stone fruit, butter, touches of soil and some saffron, balanced, harmonious and long. Glorious! *****

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Ombelico of suckling pig and mangalitza lardo and savoy cabbage

• 2005 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Beaune 1er Cru Grèves

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Medium/deep garnet core, pale garnet rim. Ripe, pure dark berry fruit, vanilla, sesame. Medium bodied, ripe black berry fruit, again still quite marked by new oak with vanilla and sesame, ripe, fine, quite soft tannins, balanced acidity, medium length finish. Needs a bit more time. **(*1/2).

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• 2001 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

  Medium/deep garnet, wide pale mahogany rim. Smoky, mature red fruit, Earth, touch of sous-Bois, quite soft and harmonious, spice on the good length finish. ***1/2.

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Shoulder and rack of Dorset hogget th crushed golden turnip and cime de rapa

• 2000 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Medium/deep garnet, pale mahogany rim. Big, spicy yet aromatic nose, touch of game. Medium/full, broad and rich on the palate, some slightly showy tannins on the finish but very enjoyable. ***1/2.

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• 1988 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Pale/medium mahogany, wide pale rim. Evolved nose, autumnal, vestiges of dried red fruit, earth, floral top note. Light/medium bodied, has an ethereal quality, fine but still quite firm tannins, good length lightly gamey finish. Excellent, and no particular hurry. ****

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• 1998 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Medium/deep garnet. Dark fruity - plum, blackberry, slight herbal note. Medium bodied, quite rich and earthy with dark fruit, attractive herbal edge, good length grippy finish. Excellent ****.

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Warm chocolate, salted caramel and candied walnuts

• 2003 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru

  Pale/medium gold. Ripe Apple, sweet spices, touch of honey, lovely creamy texture, lovely clarity, decent acidity, very good length finish. Lovely, if not really a match for the pud! ****

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