Jan-Dirk Taams' residence, Groot-Ammers, Netherlands
Tasted Monday, October 19, 2015 by Xavier Auerbach with 975 views
An impressive private tasting. All the wines were tasted blind, except flights 1 and 9.
Elegant and refined style, light weight and structure, nice stuffing of ripe citrus fruit, puts finesse above power and concentration, floral, friendly, perfectly integrated oak, long and precise finish. Lovely rather than great but very attractive in its way.
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Slightly deepened colour; lactic nose, oxidative; surprisingly dry palate, steely lemon, old acidity; long but lactic finish. Not rated.
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Fully mature on the nose, slightly tired even, candied fruit, hint of sherry; palate displays cooked apple, hint of butter, slightly separated acidity; decent length, hint of caramel. Good concentration but over the hill. Not rated.
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Fresh but rich nose, hint of reduction, good depth but not much definition or precision, slightly woolly; sturdy rather than refined on the palate, firm, ripe but with correct acidity, concentrated; good length with slightly drying oak. Very correct rather than inspired.
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Excellent depth and definition on the nose, ripe citrus, flowers, well-integrated oak, pure and primary, "aerien" even; wonderful palate, complete, many nuances of ripe fruit, well-structured, excellent intensity, excellent balance, seductive; great length. At peak, time in hand. A standout in these first two flights.
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Very evolved nose, good depth, closed, hint of nuttiness, baked apple, fennel, clears up with some air; nice weight and concentration but really too developed, separating acidity; good length with some bitters. Directly from the Dutch importer's cellars, so no storage issues. Disappointing.
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Estery nose, apple cider, clears up with air, honeyed; odd palate, green apple, disjointed, soft acidity, oily; finishes with some steely lemon and liquorice. Puzzling wine, but I think the quality is there.
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Evolved nose, cooked apple, clears up with oxygen, fresher than the Jadot Demoiselles 2005, retains a certain minerality, airy, noticeable oak; juicy and appealing palate, good weight, high quality oak; finishes with cooked apple and a hint of bitters. A big wine but old before its time? Certainly no match for the magnificent 2000, also tasted recently.
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Fresh and mineral, high quality new oak, slightly lactic, transparent style, juicy fruit, lacks a bit of weight but the tannins are ripe (just), clean and precise, good length. Not nearly as good as previous bottles.
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Stewed fruit on the nose, oxidative, overripe; rather raw tannins, hint of dried cocoa, over-extracted, disjointed; black cherries on the finish and lots of drying oak. Not sure what the producer was trying to achieve here, but I do not like it. Not rated.
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Deep and spicy, oaky, hint of the barnyard, warm and glowing, generous and ripe, with firm tannins that need more time to soften, balanced by glossy black fruit, a thoroughbred. Outstanding.
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Sweet fruit, borderline overripe, spices, no noticeable oak; harmonious, generous, quite formidable tannins still wrapped in flesh, lacks some structure and stuffing; sweet fruit on the finish, good length.
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Underripe cherry fruit, light weight, a bit anaemic, drying tannins, cherry stones, length is good. Middling at best.
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Deep and complex nose, borderline overripe, meaty and spicy; sweet fruit and big tannins, ambitious but not profound, juicy but slightly disjointed; tough tannins, touch of alcohol, lacks a bit of length.
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Much lighter nose than the Clos Dubreuil, red cherries, warmth from the oak, hint of spice; the palate displays lots of juicy and fresh fruit, bright acidity, little oak, light but well-integrated tannins; very good length. Slightly underripe perhaps? 57% Cabernet Franc, 43% Merlot.
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Quite closed, spicy, meaty, high quality oak, toasty; ripe tannins, complete and balanced, with the fruit to match the extraction, ambitious but with appropriate restraint; closed on the finish. Classic.
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Glossy red cherries, relatively light pitch, hint of spice, good depth, aerien; quite tannic, fresh and slender, not lush or rich, drying even, cranberry flavours; good length. Feels a bit underripe, I question its balance. Opens up well in the glass, quickly becomes sweeter. Stylish but needs time.
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Deep and complete, quite closed but displaying real class, ripe, bay leaf and coffee; lovely balance, ripe and concentrated, powerful and weighty, lovely sweetness, glossy. Modern, rich, energetic, needs time.
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Spicy and warm, good depth, beef stock, lovage, rounded, cocoa, tannic grip, tea and tobacco, freshness. Showing well after half a century.
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Delicate, fragrant, mature, old but lively, bready, almost Pinot Noir like; sweet fruit, together, fresh acidity, retains some tannic grip, vestiges of fruit. Fragile, feminine, elegant. Finesse. Interest.
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Liquorice, spices, solid, youthful, juicy and approachable, supple tannins, good length.
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Half bottle. Youthful appearance, ruby core, cherry rim; tannic and clean, not a lot of concentration, juicy. Fun. But not good enough.
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Volatile, ethyl acetate, combines concentration and power with the elegance of the vintage, very youthful, hard to assess.
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Solid, fleshy, meaty, hint of volatility, sweet, alcoholic, bitter and warm, quite developed for age.
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Mature but lively appearance, little evolution; floral and lifted nose but not volatile; spices and rounded, elegant, sweet, transparent; lovely length. Very good and very distinctive Niepoort.
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Fully mature but lively appearance; cocoa, hint of stalks, sweet and fresh, beautifully balanced, hint of exotique, spices; good length.
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Ripe, rich and sweet nose, deep and spicy, rich and full palate, youthful, closed even, a truly great port in the making. This will be fabulous in 15-20 years' time and may merit an even higher score then.
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Stalky and difficult nose, cocoa and violets; rather dry on the palate, seems to lack the power and ripe fruit I was expecting; liquorice finish, lacks some length. We will have to wait a long time for this one and the waiting may well be in vain.
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Fragrant, sweet, floral, violets, pure, roses, violets, youthful, cocoa, elegant and refreshing, ripe tannins, intense, suave, feminine, has the wow-factor.
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Lovage, cherries, plums, soft tannins. More like an LBV than a proper Vargellas.
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Very tannic and structured, warmth, closed, ripe fruit, excellent tannic grip, complete.
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Youthful, pure, precise, good weight and warmth, firm but ripe tannins, cherry and toasty new oak, primary but charming, mineral, a poised wine with balance and length. Should enjoy an admirable career.
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Energetic, fresh, elegant, earthy, new oak, bright fruit, pure and precise, noble oak. Outstanding 2000.
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Sauvage, mineral, fresh, spices, beef stew, deep and energetic, not without some edges, pure and precise, rich, powerful, mineral, linear, long.
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Finesse, power, precision, incredible fragrance, good stuffing, delicious fruit, red earth and spice box, new oak, supple fruit, youthful but with real elegance, excellent length.
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Mature claret, deep and rich, polished, perfectly classical, perfectly mature, warm and cedary, strawberry, hint of lead pencil, good weight and length.
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Half bottle. Complete, classical, cedar, mature, lively, stylish, sweet and silky, harmonious, elegant, seamless, perfectly balanced, grande classe.
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Youthful appearance, golden but fresh; classic nose, lovely rôti, tropical fruit, off-dry; juicy and lively, fresh and with slightly oxidative notes; warm finish, good length.
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Half bottle. Fully mature, hint of candied fruit, evolved but juicy, good bitters, still fresh acidity, good length.
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NV Michel Arnould & Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve 91 Points
France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Magnum. A blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, both Grand Cru Verzenay. Red apple and citrus, well-matured but fresh, has weight and balance, hint of nutty evolution, powerful flavours, good length. A lovely expression of its terroir in both varieties.
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