A private dinner
Restaurant Behrens Am Kai *, Düsseldorf, Germany
Tasted Friday, October 30, 2015 by Xavier Auerbach with 1,001 views
Introduction
A best bottle dinner after Alper Alpaslan's epic Clos du Mesnil tasting, with some Krug thrown in for good measure...
1979 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 95 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
AP 29 80. Direct from the producer's cellars. So incredibly youthful and fresh, intense and refined, slate, hint of blanc manger (reminiscent of the 1959), pure and precise, wonderfully elegant and juicy sweetness, salted lemon, elegant and layered, hint of strawberry, very good length. Stunning.
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NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 94 Points
France, Champagne
ID 313040. Magnum. 134 different wines from 12 vintages, 1990-2005. The composition is 44% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 19% Pinot Meunier. Disgorged summer 2013. The ultimate multi-vintage champagne, the antithesis of Clos du Mesnil and a bit of a shellshock after tasting all 16 vintages of that wine. Seems remarkably light tonight, but that only underlines the immense power and energy which the Clos du Mesnil terroir confers. This Grande Cuvée is generous and complex, harmonious and flowing, with a wonderful silky elegance, ripe and creamy but with a lovely crisp freshness.
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2003 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 94 Points
France, Champagne
Rich and deep, showing considerable phenolics, big and bold but with ripe acidity, red fruit, slightly sweet, seemingly forward but needs some time to come together. A powerhouse. Retaste in 5 years' time.
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2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 95 Points
France, Champagne
Quite a rich and vinous style, similar vintage character as the Clos du Mesnil 2000, rounded and ripe and supple but with nice aromatic lift, elderflower, ripe but firm acidity, powerful yet elegant, very good length. A top 2000.
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1998 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 94 Points
France, Champagne
Magnum. Rich but lively, ripe and weighty but with distinctive 1998-acidity, good tension and energy, red apple, quite powerful and rich but seems to lack a certain elegance?
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2009 Weingut Keller Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs 94 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Rich but precise, immediately recognisable as Keller, scintillating acidity covered in rich Riesling flesh, mineral spice, perfect balance, silky and supple, relaxed, long.
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2008 Wittmann Westhofener Brunnenhauschen Riesling Großes Gewächs 91 Points
Germany, Rheinhessen
Magnum. Seems quite sweet and mature, honeyed, soft and very developed for a 2008, very good fruit but lacks energy and minerality, good length.
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2009 Hospices de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Cuvée Bahèzre de Lanlay Lucien Le Moine
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Cuvée Pablo. Magnum. Very resinous oak on the nose, overpowers the fruit completely at this stage; rich and rounded and silky but again the oak blows everything else out of the water. I wonder if this ever will come round. Liquid oak. Not rated.
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1998 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l'Ermite 94 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Magnum. Wonderfully pure and fresh, berries and cherries, sous-bois, tannic but balanced, cool minerality, very elegant, intense and silky, very good length.
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2000 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa 92 Points
Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Magnum. Mature, tannic, not very defined or precise but rich and powerful, hint of nutty development, more tar than roses, ripe tannins, sweet core of fruit, very good length.
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2008 Tenuta di Biserno Lodovico 93 Points
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Magnum. Young vines (planted in 2002), 80% Cabernet Franc, with Merlot and a dash of Petit Verdot. Green pepper, well-structured, spicy oak, sweet fruit, depth and energy, modern and attractive, needs 5 years.
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2004 Viñedos Lacalle y Laorden Rioja Viña el Pisón 93 Points
Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alavesa, Rioja
Sweet cherries, rich, ripe tannins, silky and sweet, perfectly made, a very technical wine but (and) in a way also emotionless. I admire its quality but I find it difficult to connect.
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1985 Château Margaux 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Perfect mature claret nose, cedar, gravel, wonderful definition and depth; elegant and sweet palate, superb harmony and elegance, generous and feminine, very good length. In perfect shape, a true 1985.
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1983 Château Latour Grand Vin 90 Points
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Light and a bit tea-like, sweet and supple, light structure, juicy but quite drying tannins, decent length.
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1975 Château d'Yquem 100 Points
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Immense energy and concentration, deep and rich, powerful, honey and vanilla, peach and lime zest, VA in check, almost Cognac-like top notes, like a tightly coiled spring, complex, complete, subtle bitters, perfectly integrated oak, unending finish. For me, the essence of Yquem.
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1988 Château d'Yquem
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Wonderful Sauternes but not a perfect bottle. Sweet and elegant, juicy and fresh, well-integrated oak, I am suspecting a touch of TCA below the sensory threshold. Not rated.
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2001 Château d'Yquem
France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
From a magnum that was opened a few days ago and was still about one-third full. Just a sip - I did not have the time to really concentrate, but I was once again amazed by the magical combination of richness, concentration and elegant freshness of Yquem in this vintage. I am not scoring it tonight, but I suspect this is still (close to) perfection.
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