The Fourteenth Stonefields Dinner

Host Michael Barnstijn and Louise McCallum, in addition to Master of Ceremonies Malcolm Roberts and Chefs Amanda Ray and Alida Solomon, created a wonderful night devoted to "Women in the World of Wine." What a night!

• NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  The nose on this was powerful on first pour and continued to evolve and improve over the course of 2 hours exhibiting a mix of pure lemon and lime flavours, white blossoms, lemongrass, biscuit and autolytic notes.
  The palate showed such depth, complexity and roundness with flavours of mint, lemon custard, ripe tropical fruit, biscuit, dough, minerals and herbs...this really gains weight with time.
  Finish is long, complex and round but with mineral driven density.

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Oyster with Concord Grape Mignonette, Live Quebec Scallops on the shell with Mustard Foam & Apple Gastrique, Alaskan King Crab with sweet butter.

• NV Marie Courtin Champagne Indulgence Extra Brut Rosé 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  2011 Base bottling - biodynamic and very little, if any, dosage
  This was bright rose...bordering orange red in colour
  On the nose, this was unlike any champagne I have every tried. If I was poured this blind, I might have gone with a sparkling Saumur from the Loire as there was so much pyrazene. The dominant aromatic element was rhubarb and grape jelly with some subtle autolytic notes and all wrapped in a vegetal blanket.
  On the palate it was clear that this was super low dosage. Flavours ranged from concord grape juice, rhubarb, vegetal notes to primary tart strawberry and other small red berried flavours.
  The finish was medium.

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• 2002 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion Brut 97 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  100% Grand Cru fruit...only made in the best years and fermented and aged in barrels. Malolactic is blocked and dosage is 6-8g/L
  This was flat our unreal. Such power and finesse.
  Nose was explosive with a bouquet of exotic white flowers, lemongrass, hazelnuts, mineral, biscuit, brioche and lemon zest. This is an enveloping nose that is rich and round and makes you want to come back over and over.
  Palate is so pure and powerful. I am floored by this wine...layer upon layer of flavours come at you in waves. First lemon, lime zest..then flowers, then autolytic notes, then minerals, then spice, then buttered caramel.
  Finish is never ending...so long, complex and complete. Stupendous champagne

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Foie Gras Torchon with Apricot Puree & Brioche

• 1784 Château d'Yquem 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Purchased at Christies and authenticated by Michael Broadbent.
  Striated glass, bottle recorked at chateau in 1993
  
  Quite dark colour...deep amber with hint of orange at the edge.
  Nose as extremely pronounced....burnt sugar, burnt brûlée, orange spice, brown sugar, orange zest, marmalade, and christmas cake. This is aromatically insane.
  Palate is remarkable...it is viscous with notes of honey, orange marmalade, burnt sugar, roasted hazelnuts, minerals and spice and with no VA.
  Finish is long....never ending with layers of candied flowers, orange zest, marmalade, brûlée, minerals and candied almond.
  Wow...spectacular.

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Bay Sea Scallops with Olive Oil Crema, Sturgeon Caviar and Lentil Chip

• 2003 Yalumba Viognier The Virgilius 93 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley

  This was perhaps that wine at this years dinner that challenged my preconceptions the most. All of my previous experiences drinking Condrieu and other Viogner wines led me to the conclusion that Viognier was best consumed in the first few years of its life to preserve its aromatic intensity. The Virgilius took this prejudice and hit back...even after 12 years of age, this wine came out with an intensely floral driven nose that was augmented with lemon custard and a vast array of spices.
  The palate had great texture and just enough acid to balance it and let the flower, mineral, spice, vanilla and citrus flavours come to the fore.
  Finish is long and lush. Pretty wine.

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• 2000 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 93 Points

  France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

  This was so aromatically intense...we came back to this over and over throughout the night and found the nose beguiling.
  This was quite ripe with some tropical and honeyed notes and a faint whiff of petrol. The palate was rich and viscous with minerals, ripe stone fruits, flowers and honey.
  Finish was long.

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• 2005 Y de Yquem 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux

  I stuck my nose in this and said "white bordeaux....yum"
  Such typicity...minerals, candied citrus and floral notes, some smoke, vanilla and wood spice.
  The palate is really dense and structured...has years and years of time left. Layers of nutmeg, white flowers, vanilla, rich lemon custard, and an herbal note that adds a brightness to this wine.
  Finish is long...great wine.

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Jerusalem Artichoke Soup with Maple-Sherry Glazed Bacon & Sunflower Sprouts

• 2012 Southbrook Winery Chardonnay Poetica 91 Points

  Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Four Mile Creek VQA

  Biodynamic and 100% whole cluster pressed and aged in 15% new French Oak barrels.
  This is quite restrained on the nose with pear, citrus, spice, roasted nuts and minerals.
  The palate seems a touch bigger and marries rich almost tropical fruit with a fine bead of acid that is augmented by wood spice and vanilla notes.
  The finish is medium.

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• 2009 Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay White Bones Adrianna Vineyard Gualtallary 92 Points

  Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Gualtallary

  This was a touch reduced on first pour but this blew off quickly at revealed a pretty nose of citrus, minerals, pear and apple.
  The palate is dominated by lemon and lime but augmented by some riper, bordering on tropical notes, and vanilla and spice.
  The finish is long.

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• 2009 Gaja Langhe Chardonnay Gaia & Rey 93 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  This is a hedonism...chardonnay hedonism.
  Powerful nose of lemon custard, vanilla bean, lemongrass, nutmeg, hazelnut, guava, marzipan and wood spice.
  The palate had great texture and a nice balance between ripe fruit, high quality oak treatment and brisk balancing acidity.
  Finish is long with pure fruit and oak driven flavours. Very nice.

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Pear & Rosemary Stracciatelli Ravioli with Butter Sauce, Pear and Crispy Sage

• 1998 Domaine d'Auvenay (Lalou Bize-Leroy) Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 96 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

  292 bottles made
  This was quite lithe and held up really well throughout the night...there was a lovely mixture of powerful deep citrus flavours, notes of vanilla and wood spice and a green herbal note that provided a wonderful lift.
  The palate mineral driven and balanced that off with lush lemon cream, vanilla bean, nutmeg, hazelnuts, acacia blossoms and lemongrass
  Finish was long and layered....simply stupendous chardonnay.

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• 1996 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

  This bottle was in great shape...no premox issues.
  This nose was quite herbal and earthy but balanced off with sweet baking spice, mint, white blossoms and lemon pastry cream.
  The palate very complex with baking spice, nutmeg and mineral augmented with lemon zest, lime, white flowers and minty herbal notes. So much going on.
  Finish was long, layered and lush. Great wine.

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Louise Brison poured for guests to have during a brief walkabout. After about 20 minutes the guests were seated with just the 1966 Bollinger

• 2008 Louise Brison Champagne Brut Millésimé 92 Points

  France, Champagne

  50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay estate grapes grown organically in the Aube. Dosage of 6g/L.
  Nose is citrus driven with some melon and stone fruit notes.
  This palate is like a lighting bolt cutting across your palate...mineral driven with spine of razor sharp acid and balanced with pure citrus and stone fruit flavours and whiff of fresh baked bread. Quite refreshing.
  Finish is medium+

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• 1966 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  This was recently "found" in the cellar of Bollinger in March 2011 and disgorged after 44 years on the lees! 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay
  
  The first bottle we opened was oxidized and clearly not a pristine example....the second....wow...was in great shape.
  Nose had a myriad of roasted nuts, dried citrus and candied flowers wrapped in spice and subtle coffee notes.
  The palate was equally rich and intense with autolytic insanity and ever-present fruit and spice notes.
  Finish was long and layered....pretty reference point aged champagne

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Seared Venison with Butternut Squash Puree, Chocolate Walnut Gastrique, Rainbow Chard, Lingonberry & Red Wine Jus

• 1995 Château Mouton Rothschild 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  This was still quite young, but definitely a wine that is on the way up.
  Nose was packed with cassis, graphite, earth, black currants, black cherry, truffle, cedar, and dark flowers.
  The palate is packed with dark fruit and augmented with cedar, leather, graphite, lead pencil and cassis. My only critique was that I found it a touch hollow on the transition to the finish...but this is a very minor critique.
  The finish is long. Great wine...one for the future.

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• 1983 Château Margaux 98 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  2nd of 2 bottles. 1st was subtly corked
  
  Wow...this was unbelievable! So explosive....liquified flowers are everywhere....lavender, violets, roses, forrest floor, earth, cedar, cassis and sandalwood....quixotic wine!
  The palate is so pure...cassis, lavender, cedar, leather, black currants, earth, forrest floor, mushrooms and flowers, flowers, flowers.
  Finish is a knockout, so long.....unbelievable wine.

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• 1982 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  The nose was dominated by pyrazene, black fruit, graphite and lead pencil.
  On the palate there was similar dark fruit, pyrazene, lend pencil, graphite, earth and leather but there was also some brett and a touch of volatility that detracted from the bottles overall quality. It seemed as if its best days had been behind it...there was nothing wrong with it at all, but I got the sense that it would have been better 3-5 years earlier.
  The finish was medium+.

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Duck Confit with Spelt Spatula, Duck Heart, Brussle Sprouts & Grappa Cherries

• 1929 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 97 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  This was a flat out stunner...
  Nose was so expressive with dried flowers, soy, menthol, orange rind and dried dark fruit notes.
  The palate was quite savoury with soy, meat, dill, cigar box, dark fruit, dried flowers and minerals.
  Finish was spectacular....so long and expansive. Wow....legend.

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• 1929 Château Haut-Brion

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  This was really hard to score...not a faulty bottle but also not the best example of this vintage I imagine.
  The nose was really quite subdued with some dried fruit and flowers but really seemed to be on the way down.
  The palate was ashy...still some fruit but was tannic and astringent.
  Still some fruit on the finish but not showing its best. Not rated.

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Wild Boar with Quince, Chestnuts, Northern Beans with Triple Crunch Mustard Jus

• 1999 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 94 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Nose of sweet fruit, savoury herbs and tea leaves.
  The palate shows leather, sweat red fruit, dried flowers, herbs, umami and smoked meat. Obviously leaning modern...but pretty.
  Finish is long and savoury.

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• 1999 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 91 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  There was whiff of oxidation on the nose...some bruised apple...not totally oxidized but in my mind this has not aged well. There are obviously redeeming qualities....very savoury and medicinal.
  The palate shows brown sugar, bruised apple, rum raisin, christmas cake, umami and medicinal notes. House style? Obviously traditional.
  The finish is medium and shows pure red fruit mixed with medicinal and herbal notes.

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Braised Beef Cheeks & Wild Mushroom Semolina with Alba White Truffles & Parmesan

• 2009 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Adrianna Vineyard 93 Points

  Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Gualtallary

  This was a pretty mix of powerful dark fruit, flowers, and minerals.
  On the palate there was this lovely mixture of plush fruit, perfumed flowers, bitter chocolate and minerals,
  The finish was long and complex

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• 2007 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon 89 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

  The nose showed methylated ripe fruit....this seemed overblown and jammy with some pyrazene notes. The alcohol burned my nose.
  The palate showed dark ripe fruit but again seemed overdone...just too much extraction and back for my palate. Seemed like there was some residual sugar even.
  Finish was long with dark fruit but there was some obvious alcohol on the backend.

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• 1996 Yalumba The Reserve 92 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley

  This was brought over by the Yalumba winemaker. 50% cabernet, 50% shiraz in barrels that the winery make themselves.
  
  Nose is dominated by menthol, eucalyptus, dark black, dark chocolate and what a few of us called "peppermint patty"
  The palate had beautiful texture with ripe black fruit, menthol and eucalyptus and nice balancing acidity.
  Finish is quite long. Nice wine.

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Sainte Maure de Touraine A.O.P., La Fromagerie Pierre Jacquin & Fils, La Vernelle, Centre-Val de Loire, France

Poached Pear with Vanilla Marscapone

• 2009 Château Climens 96 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  Nose of honey, marzipan, lemongrass, tropical fruit, white flowers and fresh cut strawberries....This is so complex and aromatically intense!
  The palate is so floral with acacia, white blossoms, honey, lemongrass, red fruit, mango, guava and coconut. It is so viscous and textured but with great balancing acidity.
  Finish is long....so long.

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• 2001 Château Coutet Barsac 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

  The nose was dominated by fresh cut mint, lemon, dried apricot and honey.
  The palate was quite viscous with tropical fruits, white plum, spice and white pepper. Could us a touch more acid in my mind as it is just so big and dense.
  Finish was medium with moderate complexity

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• NV Tesseron Lot #29 XO Exception

  France, Cognac, Grande Fine Champagne Cognac

  This was a lovely way to end the evening. No formal note was taken...but it was lovely

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Many thanks to Michael and Louise. This was another great evening benefiting a great cause.