BORDEAUX 2005 / Graves reds and whites tasted in 2006

Bordeaux
Tasted Saturday, April 8, 2006 by PanosKakaviatos with 335 views

Introduction

THE TASTING NOTES / PART II
NOT JUST RED WINE

Readers take note: these are notes that date from 2006...

In this second part, we look at two famous appellations which remain somewhat obscured by the Right Bank (St. Emilion and Pomerol, primarily) and the Left Bank (Medoc and its main appellations of Pauillac, St. Julien, Margaux and
St. Estephe). Graves and Sauternes are Left Bank wines (to the left of the Gironde River and the southern Dordogne/Garonne branches of that river), but they are both also south of the city of Bordeaux, unlike the Medoc, which means that the reds mature more quickly due to a slightly warmer climate. Though about 80% of Bordeaux wine is red, each of these two AOCs are very well known for white whites (dry in Graves, sweet in Sauternes). Indeed, two of the greatest Bordeaux wines ever come from these regions: Château Haut Brion (in Pessac) – the only non Medoc wine to be included in the 1855 Classification of wines from the Medoc and Sauternes – and Château d’Yquem, in Sauternes. Without much further ado, let us start with the great red and white dry wines of Graves, and, more specifically, Pessac-Léognan, an appellation only recently created (1987), which consists of the northernmost part of the Graves region, where soils are more gravely and warmer than in the south: ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, but in spots with more clay, also good for quite a bit of Merlot. That’s me, above, at Château Haut Brion.

Flight 1 - Château Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion (5 Notes)

Some scenes from the tasting at Château Haut Brion, the only château not in the Medoc to be included in the famous 1855 classification of wines from the Medoc and Sauternes (rated top level with only three other wines). This classification was ordered by Napoleon III in response to primarily English buyers of Bordeaux who requested a list of the best wines. The classification reflected the price of wines as established by brokers over a 100-year period. Though much has changed in the 150 years since, many of the so-called classified growths possess terroirs worthy of their initial ranking. Haut Brion is no exception.

  • 2005 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    More forward than Haut Brion, more evident flavors of cinnamon and fruit basket aromas, springing out of the glass, with almost over the top headiness. I felt that the Haut Brion showed a tad more breeding, in the quality of the tannins, but this wine has muscle and needs time in barrel to settle. 91-93+

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  • 2005 Château Haut-Brion 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    I was very impressed with this wine, but it took 30 minutes for the flavors to emerge. A brooding Haut Brion, with less immediate power than the 2004, but more substance. At first I could hardly detect much aroma, but time in glass revealed spice and cherry with some fresh mint. Mouth coating feeling on the palate and – most important – a long finish. I was somewhat put off by a certain alcoholic presence, more than in any other 1st growth, but just splitting hairs. 56% Merlot, 39% Cab and 5% Cab Franc. 92-94

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  • 2005 Château La Tour Haut-Brion 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    et another wine in the Delmas stable, and it was a tad rustic, with good expression of fruit flavors and spice, but slightly rough tannins. Nice minty freshness coming from the 41% Cab Franc and a good finish. 88-90+

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  • 2005 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A beautiful white, one of the best of Bordeaux, and no exception in 2005, with sappiness and crisp acidity. Complex flavors include white peach, pear, discrete butter and fresh hay field aromas. Smooth on the palate with a long finish. Very fine. 78% Semillon and 22% Sauvignon. 92-94+

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  • 2005 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Another impressive effort from the Delmas family, this is a rare white wine that can impress. Seems thicker on the palate than the Laville, but also has floral elements and freshness. 52% Sauvignon and 48% Semillon. 91-94

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Flight 2 - Graves and Pessac Leognan - WHITE (19 Notes)

  • 2005 Château Rahoul Blanc 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves

    Another very clear sample, with a pleasing vanilla gingerbread nose. Palate is key lime pie! Nice presence on the palate, but not as nuanced as #1... Still, more immediately appealing, and ... slightly highly in comparison! 90-92+

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  • 2005 Château Bouscaut Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Nice mineral like nose with lime notes, clove and spice. Palate is a bit burly with some sharp, almost salty flavors. Nice finish, with intensity, too. 89-91?

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  • 2005 Château Carbonnieux Blanc 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Peanut brittle nose with hints of Tequila and lime. Palate is fruit juice and alcohol heat is nicely kept in check. Very nice balance and thirst quenching pleasure, perfect for a summer day or with grilled fish. 91-92+

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  • 2005 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Closed first nose, second nose is more citrus with grapefruit on the palate and some sweet vanilla too. Nice and fresh palate with some pineapple and a linear focus of flavor. Serious wine! 90-93

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  • 2005 Château de Fieuzal Blanc 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Too oaky and plain on the palate

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  • 2005 Château de Fieuzal Blanc 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Too oaky and plain on the palate. 87-88

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  • 2005 Château de France Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    What lovely aromas of verveine tea, orange blossom and pineapple! Very delicate wine, as palate is poised and balanced though not as intense as, say, #6. Lovely wine however, and one that normally inexpensive. Look out for it! 91-93+

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  • 2005 Château Haut-Bergey Blanc 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    First nose shows a hint of oak. Some lemon, more grapefruit. Palate is boisterous and fun, if a bit rustic. 87-89

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  • 2005 Château La Louvière Blanc 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A "soft" orange nose, juicy on the palate, zesty, but slightly monolithic - if not at all rustic like the above. A pleasurable drink. 88-90+

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  • 2005 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Mineral and pear aromas and flavors, and the palate is also a bit peachy! Peachy keen, if just a tad cloying... Still, a nice pleasant white with full bodied feel and sure to please some palates! 87-90

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  • 2005 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Fresh grapefruit aroma. Palate is citrus, but also very nuanced and layered with different flavors. Lovely hint of pineapple on the fresh and crisp finish. Good character! 91-92+

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  • 2005 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Closed nose, but then very pear like. A nice medium bodied feel with lemon notes though a tad alcoholic. Good finish. 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Olivier Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Lemon and lime aromas and flavors please and the wine has a nice smooth texture, but it is not rising into the realm of the sublime either! Again, good finish, and similar in profile to the above. 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Pape Clément Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Nuanced nose of citrus and oak-derived flavors, though palate is at this stage too dominated by the oak. A fine full body, with notes of orange rind and tannic edge from the oak. Hopefully will round out? 89-91

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  • 2005 Château Picque Caillou Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Peanut brittle nose, recalling #5 but palate here is a bit cloying, if candy-like; almost like a watermelon sour ball! This is OK, and will perhaps improve with time in barrel. 88-90

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  • 2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Candy notes with pineapple and nectarine. Palate is full-bodied though a tad alcoholic, but overall a very nice integration of oak and fruit and will certainly round out in barrel. 90-91+

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  • 2005 Château de Chantegrive Blanc 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves

    Cloudy straw color, nose has notes of pear and apricot, just enough notions of sweetness on the palate and with nice mineral notes, and a really nice finish. Impressive stuff. 91-93+

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  • 2005 Château Baret Blanc 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Some 70% Sauvignon Blanc, this wine has fresh fruit flavors with some oak; the palate is round yet nicely dry. Nice wine! 89-91. The red is good, too, with nice cherry nose, and plum on the palate with pretty intensity (89-91)

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  • 2005 Château Ferrande Blanc 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves

    Looks quite filtered - very clear - the nose is closed, shows slight expression of oak, with hints of pineapple. Not nearly as expressive as above and in fact lackluster in comparison, but not bad at all, just a bit shy. 87-89

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Flight 3 - Graves and Pessac Leognan - RED (18 Notes)

  • 2005 Château de Chantegrive Graves 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves

    Charcoal aromas and ripe plum, black cherry. The palate is a tad austere, a tad sour, also slightly hard and alcoholic, but overall not bad. 89-90

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  • 2005 Château Ferrande 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves

    Strawberry candy nose with nuanced fruit, some cedar. An impression of elegance, with a slightly tangy palate, juicy with greater punch and depth than the above. 91-92+

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  • 2005 Château Rahoul 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves

    First nose is a tad closed, but turns to fresh fruit salad; the palate is “cool” not minty, but fresh. Thirst quenching quality. White pepper on the finish. 91-92

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  • 2005 Château Bouscaut 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Closed nose, but then nice fruit expression with hints of mineral and spice. Palate is suave and tannins are velvety with chocolate flavors and not heavy in any way. An underperforming estate, this will not be expensive. Very fine! 91-93

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  • 2005 Domaine de Chevalier 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Fresh, almost citrus like aromas with dill. The palate is however slightly hard with a muscle like feel. Awkward period? 88-89?

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  • 2005 Château de Fieuzal 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Peppermint aroma, very mint, almost eucalyptus. Hints of licorice explode on the palate, which is very fine. The tannic texture is just okay, but good balance and a nice fresh finish. 90-92

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  • 2005 Château de France 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Nice cherry aroma; very beautiful aromas of red and black berries with cedar. But gum hitting palate. Good tobacco flavor, but perhaps over extracted? 89-92?

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  • 2005 Château Haut-Bailly 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Black fruit, blackberry aromas. Very sumptuous on the palate with red and black fruit plus cedar elegance. Palate shows a nice tannic structure, grainy, showing just a tad of alcoholic heat, but negligible. Nice finish. Very fine wine. 91-94

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  • 2005 Château Haut-Bergey 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Subtle licorice nose precedes a good fruity palate but nothing extraordinary at this early stage. Time in barrel should help. 87-89

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  • 2005 Château La Louvière 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Shows a hint of green, but palate is juicy and thirst quenching. Grows minty with time in glass, pleasant. A certain austerity however, some toughness. Will round out with barrel aging, but not a super star either. 88-90+

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  • 2005 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Sweet plum pudding nose, with graphite. Intriguing and good, but palate attacks a bit hard. Smoothens out later, but perhaps too extracted? Shows quality whose hard edges should smoothen with barrel age. 87-89+

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  • 2005 Château Latour-Martillac 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Fresh wintergreen aroma with white pepper. Palate slightly thin, indistinct, but shows fruit and freshness. 87-88+

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  • 2005 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Spice and fruit and mint, mostly mint on this nice nose! Wine is full bodied with smooth, mouth-coating tannins again with mint flavors and a long finish. Very good! 90-93

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  • 2005 Château Malartic-Lagravière 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Nice, fresh almost floral with some plum and spice. Chocolate like palate shows also great balance and freshness with good acidity, leaving a very full- bodied and balanced impression on the finish. Really very good wine.

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  • 2005 Château Olivier 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A bit of wintergreen though slightly closed nose. Palate is juicy, slightly hard in its tannin but there is finesse and fresh strawberry flavor and... a smooth finish. This should turn out into something nice. 89-92

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  • 2005 Château Pape Clément 92 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    First nose is mineral, then tobacco, with a rich - though slightly alcoholic - palate, but overall impression is of a fun, big wine without being over- extracted. Good finish, too. 90-93

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  • 2005 Château Picque Caillou 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Subtle nose of spice, some ripe plum. Attack is supple, soft as are the tannins. Flavors of milk chocolate and not at all big, rather polite. Odd notes of nail polish make me wonder about the time of malolactic fermentation. Nice overall. 87-91

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  • 2005 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 89 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Charcoal and caramel nose, with notes coming from high- toasted oak... Indeed, some jus d'oak characteristics that do not appeal to me. But there is fruit and peppermint seeping through the wood. Shows much corpulence on the palate, too with a good, if slightly alcoholic finish. 88-90

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