Bordeaux
Tasted Saturday, April 8, 2006 by PanosKakaviatos with 335 views
THE TASTING NOTES / PART II
NOT JUST RED WINE
Readers take note: these are notes that date from 2006...
In this second part, we look at two famous appellations which remain somewhat obscured by the Right Bank (St. Emilion and Pomerol, primarily) and the Left Bank (Medoc and its main appellations of Pauillac, St. Julien, Margaux and
St. Estephe). Graves and Sauternes are Left Bank wines (to the left of the Gironde River and the southern Dordogne/Garonne branches of that river), but they are both also south of the city of Bordeaux, unlike the Medoc, which means that the reds mature more quickly due to a slightly warmer climate. Though about 80% of Bordeaux wine is red, each of these two AOCs are very well known for white whites (dry in Graves, sweet in Sauternes). Indeed, two of the greatest Bordeaux wines ever come from these regions: Château Haut Brion (in Pessac) – the only non Medoc wine to be included in the 1855 Classification of wines from the Medoc and Sauternes – and Château d’Yquem, in Sauternes. Without much further ado, let us start with the great red and white dry wines of Graves, and, more specifically, Pessac-Léognan, an appellation only recently created (1987), which consists of the northernmost part of the Graves region, where soils are more gravely and warmer than in the south: ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon, but in spots with more clay, also good for quite a bit of Merlot. That’s me, above, at Château Haut Brion.
Some scenes from the tasting at Château Haut Brion, the only château not in the Medoc to be included in the famous 1855 classification of wines from the Medoc and Sauternes (rated top level with only three other wines). This classification was ordered by Napoleon III in response to primarily English buyers of Bordeaux who requested a list of the best wines. The classification reflected the price of wines as established by brokers over a 100-year period. Though much has changed in the 150 years since, many of the so-called classified growths possess terroirs worthy of their initial ranking. Haut Brion is no exception.
2005 Château La Mission Haut-Brion 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
More forward than Haut Brion, more evident flavors of cinnamon and fruit basket aromas, springing out of the glass, with almost over the top headiness. I felt that the Haut Brion showed a tad more breeding, in the quality of the tannins, but this wine has muscle and needs time in barrel to settle. 91-93+
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2005 Château Haut-Brion 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
I was very impressed with this wine, but it took 30 minutes for the flavors to emerge. A brooding Haut Brion, with less immediate power than the 2004, but more substance. At first I could hardly detect much aroma, but time in glass revealed spice and cherry with some fresh mint. Mouth coating feeling on the palate and – most important – a long finish. I was somewhat put off by a certain alcoholic presence, more than in any other 1st growth, but just splitting hairs. 56% Merlot, 39% Cab and 5% Cab Franc. 92-94
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2005 Château La Tour Haut-Brion 89 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
et another wine in the Delmas stable, and it was a tad rustic, with good expression of fruit flavors and spice, but slightly rough tannins. Nice minty freshness coming from the 41% Cab Franc and a good finish. 88-90+
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2005 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A beautiful white, one of the best of Bordeaux, and no exception in 2005, with sappiness and crisp acidity. Complex flavors include white peach, pear, discrete butter and fresh hay field aromas. Smooth on the palate with a long finish. Very fine. 78% Semillon and 22% Sauvignon. 92-94+
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2005 Château Haut-Brion Blanc 92 Points
France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Another impressive effort from the Delmas family, this is a rare white wine that can impress. Seems thicker on the palate than the Laville, but also has floral elements and freshness. 52% Sauvignon and 48% Semillon. 91-94
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