Francois's 70th Birthday Celebration - Kelly and Kevin's another excellent adventure

Paris and Bordeaux
Tasted Friday, February 26, 2016 - Tuesday, March 1, 2016 by dcwino with 823 views

Introduction

Francois’s lovely wife contacted a few months back inviting us to a surprise party to celebrate Francois’s 70th birthday. I certainly would not miss to participate for anything and I enthusiastically said yes. I however was so surprise as I always thought that Francois was in his late fifties or early sixties. The man has unlimited energy and vigor. The celebration was held in Bordeaux and Kelly W and I planned a four nights trip, as usual the trip was totally evolved around wine. The friends joined from all around the world!

Flight 1 - Lunch at Carre des Feuillants (1 Note)

This was the restaurant where Scott M drank all the 93 Rousseau Chambertin a decade ago. I always enjoyed the restaurant but the interior had not changed for awhile. The cooking was quite solid but my pork steak was a bit dry which was unacceptable for a two start Michelin. The wine list was still solid and some were very well priced.

  • 2008 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    (2/26/2016)

    Laser like focus and precision. Dense coiled nose displaying ripe yellow fruits, lemon curd, honey, wet limestone, white flowers and rain water. Incredible concentration, beautifully layered fruits, strong presence of mineral, mouth puckering acidity and long finish that resonates. Although it opens up a bit with air, it remains pretty coiled. It clearly reflects the vintage, producer and vineyard. Very serious wine that is very impressive now but will improve for a couple decades for certain.

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Flight 2 - Dinner at Les Climats (2 Notes)

I heard a lot of good things about the restaurant. The space was beautiful. I ordered the tasting menu and it was truly exceptional. The list had some bargains. I highly recommend the restaurant.

  • 2010 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    (2/28/2016)

    Much more expressive than the clos drank at lunch. Beautiful open nose displaying white fruits, pear, apples, a hint of beeswax and mineral. Good concentration but clearly not as concentrated as the clos, quite refreshing and precise, nice acidity and lovely long clean finish. Not as serious as the clos, but perfectly delicious.

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  • 2010 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 100 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    (2/27/2016)

    Truly a sensory overload. Simply perfect nose displaying perfectly ripe blackberries, cornucopia of flowers, coffee beans, exotics spices, a hint of vosne spice and mineral. The nose remains perfect but constantly evolving and changing. Though so much going on in the nose, all components interplay beautifully and perfectly harmonious. Deceptively light as the palate is incredibly polished and silky. Perfect balance and precision. Despite being young, incredibly complex and drinking perfectly. I recall Jeremy H and Paul H mentioned this is actually better than the Beze. I didn’t think so earlier but now I agree based on this example. The Beze is more intense but this is even purer and more precise. One of the greatest young wines of my life. Perfect in everyway!

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Flight 3 - Lunch at Brasserie le Noailles (1 Note)

It was pouring down . We walked to Restaurants L’Entrecote but there was a long line. So we looked for the busiest place. Brasserie le Noailles was solid. I ordered simply sautéed Cep which was excellent. The wine on the other hand was so so.

  • 2007 Château de la Dauphine 86 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Fronsac

    (2/27/2016)

    Quite concentrated, mostly black fruits and noticeable oak. Noticeable tannins, slightly disjointed acidity and abrasive tannins. Perhaps too extracted and too much oak at the moment. It will be interesting how this will evolve in ten years as the concentration is there.

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Flight 4 - Francois 70th Birthday dinner at Cote Rue (9 Notes)

All the guests arrived, all very familiar faces. The sommelier was pouring the 96 Krug and Bollinger RD magnums. The anticipation was high as Francois was just about to arrive. We turned off the light and hoped that it would be a true surprise. As he entered, we all sang happy birthday and it became quite apparent that it was truly a surprise. The dinner lasted for a while and we were entertained by Francois Wilhelm who sang a number of songs and told the funny stories. He and Francois attended the business school together and it appeared that drinking was a bit part of their daily routine. Everyone was having fun, a lot of laughter and only a couple of tears from Francois. It was a memorable evening.

  • 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    (2/27/2016)

    Served en magnum. Good precision but seemed a bit tighter than usual which accentuates the Krug oxidative note. Excellent concentration, very precise and coiled. Perhaps needs time in magnum format.

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  • 2005 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 97 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    (2/27/2016)

    Quite generous but subtle nose displaying yellow citrus fruits, a hint of lanoline, honey, saline and wet stone. Very good concentration, good mineral expression, perfect amount of acidity and fresh clean finish. Not as precise as the 08 but more open and equally great.

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  • 2009 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile 92 Points

    France, Alsace

    (2/27/2016)

    Directly from the domaine, hand carried by Francois Wilhelm, the commercial director of Trimbach. Ripe yellow fruits, peach and apricot, already showing petrol, honey, spicy spices and mineral. Good concentration, bright acidity and good sweet finish then becomes dry.

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  • 1992 Gitton Père et Fils Sancerre Les Romains 92 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre

    (2/27/2016)

    Served en double magnum. Very youthful nose displaying ripe yellow citrus and apricot and lanoline. Good complexity coming from slow aging in the large format. Really interesting and enjoyable wine.

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  • 2004 Domaine de l'A 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux

    (2/27/2016)

    Served by Stephane himself. Very youth nose displaying mostly black fruits, a hint of cedar, bitter chocolate and mineral. Good concentration and balance. Very good efforts. Giving a good reason to buy well made small wines in big format to cellar for a couple decades.

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  • 2006 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 95 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    (2/27/2016)

    Classic Janet nose, red and black fruits, smoke and ash, charred steak, crushed white pepper and tapenade. Excellent concentration, very silk and polished, nicely layered, bright acidity and long finish with a hint of charred rare steak at the end. Drinking nicely.

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  • 1996 Château Pavie Macquin 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (2/27/2016)

    Served en magnum by Stephane. Black fruits, quite youthful, rustic iron, and a hint of green pepper. Medium concentration, good acidity and still noticeable slightly rustic tannins. Still quite youthful but not sure how this will evolve.

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  • 1998 Château Pavie Macquin 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    (2/27/2016)

    This feels more like the Pavie Macquin I know. Youthful dark modern right bank nose, ripe blackberries, cassis, dark milk chocolate and sandalwood. Excellent concentration, silky and polished palate, sweet dark fruit driven palate impression and long clean finish. Very nice showing.

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  • 1976 Charles Gruber Aloxe-Corton 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton

    (2/27/2016)

    Served en Methuselah. Excellent appearance. A bit of red cherry, strong oyster shell, sous bois and earth. The complexity is coming from slow aging. Very enjoyable.

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Flight 5 - Nightcap at Le Flacon (1 Note)

As we were walking back to the hotel, we accidentally passed by Le Flacon, the wine bar that we had a blast in our last visit to Bordeaux. There were a bunch of guys drinking wine at the bar. As I entered, the lady told me that the bar was closed. However Gilles, the proprietor, immediately recognized and told us to come in. He even remembered where we sat and what we drank in our last visit. We ordered a bottle of Selosse Rose for a quick nightcap. Kelly spoke to a guy at the bar who happened to be a chef and he asked us to try his place. If you are in Bordeaux, you must visit this small quaint and friendly wine bar with small but well-chosen wines at the unbelievable price.

  • NV Jacques Selosse Champagne Brut Rosé 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    (2/27/2016)

    Medium expressive nose displaying sweet yellow and light red/copper fruits, strawberry, raspberry jam, caramel, sweet spices, a hint of brioche and mineral. Excellent concentration, sweet ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, good mineral presence, bright acidity and long finish. A bit heavier and sweeter than Dom Rose. Very enjoyable.

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Flight 6 - Lunch with Francois's family and friends at Restaurant Gravelier

Francois’s family kindly organized a family and friends luncheon. I got to drink alot of interesting wines, excellent Pinots from Alsace and Germany, Scheurebe, Tokaji and etc. Francois brought a wine that I have never seen before. It was made from left over juice from all DRC crus after bottling. It was cloudy. The nose was excellent, all telltale signs of DRC, noticeable stems, decadent yet pure red fruits, Vosne spice and etc. The palate was a bit rustic but quite concentrated. If this is any indication, DRC made the great wines in 2013. We discussed the future plans of Grand Jury Europeen and upcoming wine events. After a fun long lunch, we bid farewell to Francois and his family. It was a great pleasure to be a part of the lunch.

Flight 7 - Dinner at Restaurant Solena (3 Notes)

Since the chef told us to check out his place, we decided to make a reservation. The wine list pretty good and the dishes were excellent and imaginative. Unfortunately the chef, Aurelien Crosato, informed us that he sold the restaurant. He may open a restaurant in Oregon but nothing solid as of yet.

  • NV Jacques Selosse Initial 94 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (2/28/2016)

    Disgorged in December 2014. Fresh nose displaying sweet and sour ripe yellow fruits, saline, mineral and macadamia. Excellent concentration, sweet ripe yellow fruit driven palate impression, mineral, bright acidity and long finish. The oxidative note is expressed as macadamia but the overall expression is quite sweet and fresh. Drinking perfectly.

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  • 2008 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    (2/28/2016)

    Pop and pour, starts a bit tight but opens up quickly. Harmonious nose displaying decadent yet subtle red fruits, raspberry, strawberry jam, sweet spices, rose, mushroom, a hint of sous bois, light caramel and Asian spices. Beautiful purity, balance and precision. Both the nose and palate are perfectly ready to go.

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  • 2012 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie 96 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    (2/28/2016)

    Expressive nose displaying intense black fruits, crushed blackberry, a hint of licorice, ash, tapenade and rare steak. Exceptional concentration, incredibly silky palate, beautifully layered fruits, strong mineral presence, good amount of acidity and seamless long finish with a hint of ash at the end. Very youthful but showing good complexity and sensual silky palate. Certainly will gain more ash, blood and tapenade with cellaring. Really enjoyable in a very youthful way.

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Flight 8 - Nightcap at the hotel (1 Note)

We were looking for a wine bar. Unfortunately it was a Sunday night. The hotel list very limited and pricey. Luckily we managed to find a very good Bordeaux.

  • 2010 Château Batailley 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (2/28/2016)

    A pleasant surprise. Expressive classic Pauillac nose; perfectly ripe black fruit, cassis, blueberry jam, strong note of lead pencil, cedar and earth. Exceptional concentration, intense cassis driven palate impression, nicely layered silky fruits, sweet tannins and long sweet finish. Excellent showing.

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Flight 9 - Lunch at Taillevent (2 Notes)

Since we were planning a dinner at La-Cagouille hence seafood and white wine, I figure Taillevent is a great choice for lunch. Even at the last minute, it was easy to book a table luckily for us. Jean-Marie warmly greeted us. The lunch is served in the ground floor dining room as usual which is understated or a bit stuffy and boring, depend on your take.

We were the last table to arrive. We took two wine menus to find the gems. Kelly suggested that he picks the white and I pick the red. As usual they had a great selection of Raveneau and we ordered the 01 Blanchots. I decided to order the 99 Camuzet Richebourg which I found out was their last bottle. All the dishes were quite solid and delicious. In case of langoustine amuse bouche, exceptional. The service was very good except being the last table, we felt bad for the waiting staff. The complimentary Calvado from 1981 was excellent.

  • 1999 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Richebourg 98 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru

    (2/29/2016)

    Medium expressive and incredibly youthful nose displaying deeply toned black fruits, spicy spices and earth. Per Kelly "Beautiful dark fruit, a hint of mushroom and earth that you get in a young Richebourg" which is the perfect way to describe. Unbelievable concentration, impressively layered dark fruits, quite chewy, sweet tannins, good acidity and intense long dark fruit driven finish. Kelly and I agree that despite being very impressive, it is not as hedonistic as the 10 Rousseau Beze drank on Friday night.

    With air, the nose really opens up, losing a bit of youthful fruit and becoming so much more complex. Perfectly harmonious nose displaying fresh ripe red and black fruits, vosne spice, exotics incense, decadent caramel, coffee candy, rose, truffle and earth. The palate remains very concentrated yet becomes incredibly silky and harmonious. Airy and weightless without compromising the intensity, just like a great D’Yuem. After a bit over two hours and it becomes truly magical. Kelly mentions four hours of decanting is needed and I have to agree. It is already a memorable wine but will need another ten years to reach the peak. By then this may be a 100 pointer.

    Response from Nicolas Méo-Camuzet
    "C'est en effet un grand vin et je pense que 99 est mon meilleur millésime (2005 rivalise et peut-être bientôt 2015 …). Notre trilogie de Vosne (Brulees, Richebourg et Cros Parantoux) est assez serrée cette année-là, ce sont les seuls vins de ce millésimes qui ont besoin de temps encore. Je ne suis pas étonné qu'il faille les aérer et que le plaisir soit lent à se montrer."

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  • 2001 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Blanchot 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    (2/29/2016)

    Extremely coiled nose displaying only a hint of tartt tatin and honey. Strong acidity and mineral dominates. We decide to decant. With air, it remains very tight. The fruit is non-descriptive, only a strong oxidize apple peel note. Excellent concentration, oily palate, mouth puckering acidity and medium finish due to lacking fresh fruit. The structure is admirable but the wine lacks the freshness. The bottle seems correct. I need to try it again soon.

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Flight 10 - Drinks at Willi's Wine Bar (1 Note)

As it is a custom, we headed to Willi’s wine bar. The list was as solid as ever. To re-energize, we order a bottle of the 09 Ravenau valmur. BTW, they were serving the 10 Raveneau Vaillons by glass.

  • 2009 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    (2/29/2016)

    What to do? The 01 Blanchots was not so inspiring. Oh well, why not order the 09 Valmur to bring the mojo back. Expressive nose displaying telltale signs of a GC Raveneau, perfectly ripe white and yellow fruits, saline, cold mountain stream, a hint of beeswax, spicy spices, white pepper and strong presence of mineral. With air, lemon oil and a hint of pineapple emerge. As usual, excellent concentration, generous ripe fruit driven palate impression, excellent precision, bright acidity and strong mineral presence and long energetic clean finish. Drinking Raveneau always rejuvenates and lifts my spirit. Every sip is amazingly refreshing. For my palate, Raveneau did incredibly well in 2009. Then again that is true for just about all vintages.

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Flight 11 - Dinner at La-Cagouille (1 Note)

We had a great meal with great wines in our last visit. Unfortunately not so this time. The dishes and the wine were both disappointing.

  • 2008 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Saumur Blanc Brézé 89 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur

    (2/29/2016)

    It has been only two years but this seems a lot more advanced. This really taste like a “natural” wine. The fruit is very ripe and feels almost red. The nose is mostly honey, tarte tatin and mineral. Excellent concentration, quite dense and oily and mouth puckering acidity. The acidity is overwhelming and decanting doesn't help. Perhaps it needs ten hours of decanting but I will never know. A bit disappointing. To appreciate this, you have to really like very ripe “au naturel” fruit and freakish acidity. May be the aging curve is like a Chapoutier’s white rhone. Caveat Emptor.

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Flight 12 - The last bottle at Ambassade de Bourgogne (1 Note)

The night was still young as the meal at La-Cagouille ended much earlier than originally anticipated. After getting back to the hotel, we were determine to find a wine bar for the last wine of the trip. Luckily Kelly found a quaint wine bar. As we entered, we were surprised by the selection. When we inquired if there are "other" bottles, the assistant told us that the grand crus were in the basement. The list was pretty extensive. We drank the 13 Gaudichots with Philippe, the proprietor. He is extremely knowledgeable and passionate about all things Burgundy. The place is a stone's throw away from les comptoirs. If you love Burgundy, this is a must visit. What a great way to end the trip!

  • 2013 Forey Père et Fils Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Gaudichots 96 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    (2/29/2016)

    This is all about the purity in fruit. Expressive nose displaying pure red fruits, essence of raspberry, cranberry, strong note of Vosne spice which is very surprising at this early stage, very floral and perfumed, and strong mineral presence. Excellent concentration, pure and fresh red fruit driven palate impression, nicely layered fruits, perfect amount of acidity and sweet tannins and long clean finish with a hint of raspberry jam as the end note. Despite being young the overall expression is really complex. The purity is unbelievable. Drinking so beautifully. A wonderful surprise, nice way to end the trip.

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Closing

It was a great pleasure and privilege. Another excellent adventure of Kelly and Kevin!

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