2016 Marchesi di Grésy tasting with Jeffrey Chilcott

Jeffrey Chilcott of Marchesi di Grésy is a Kiwi who has long lived in Piemonte. He's also a top bloke and great host for a tasting or a dinner.

Marchesi di Grésy has a monopole vineyard - Martinenga - on the 'Grand Cru' hill in Barbaresco, at 280 metres. Vigna Camp Gros (the "s" is pronounced) is on the right of the winery (below Rabajà) and has a southwest exposure. Vigna Gaiun is on the left, below Asili, and is direct south. The Camp Gros is aged largely in Slavonian 12.5HL oak casks, while the Gauin is aged in French barriques (around one-third new).

As always with Jeff, the evening tasting at the winery was a bit of a flurry of bottles ... Here's the highlights ...

• 2015 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Nebbiolo Martinenga

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  Marchesi di Grésy's Langhe Nebbiolos see no oak, only steel and cement. Bright colour. Fresh red fruit on the nose. Good varietal character. Generous with lots of fruit. Refreshing with good acidity ("We pick a little earlier now", said Jeff). These wines are 15 euros at the winery, good value.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2014 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Langhe Nebbiolo Martinenga

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC

  A lighter colour and a bouquet of spicy red fruit. With time in the bottle, this wine seems to have put on a little weight, compared with the '15. Good fruit, for this level. Nice texture. A little savoury and spicy. "A junior Barbaresco Camp Gros", said Jeff.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2013 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  To be released in September or October 2016. Violets and other florals on the bouquet with dark cherries and other black fruit and a little tar. Again for the level, a really good Barbaresco. Fresh 2013 acids with a good volume of mainly dark fruit, peaty soil and creosote.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2012 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Nice aromatics here too but more in the spectrum of red cherries, raspberries and other red fruit, with some spices. More red fruited on palate too, with less acidity and cut than the '13. Less concentration and a leaner, gentler version of the 2013, which I preferred.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2011 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Deep, primary, purple tinged colour. An expressive tarry nose with Asian black spices and blackberry jam. A big step up from the Martinengas. Opulent and rich in the mouth. Concentrated black cherries, blackberries and liquorice. Plenty of structure and fruit weight. The impression of lower acids. A little cassis-like alcohol present on the back palate (14.5%). Suave, smooth tannins. Hold for 5+ years for the wine to more fully integrate. "It was picked two weeks earlier than the 2010 Gaiun", said Jeff.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2010 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  A great nose. An expressive perfume of spices, florals, liquorice and balsamico. On palate, more of a classical Nebbiolo than the '11 Gaiun. Less rich and luxuriant, more vertical and linear. Still there's plenty of dark fruit here and touches of cedar and spice. Attractively austere and iron-like at its core. Medium weight only with good bones and acidity. Lower alcohol (14%). Good length. I'd give it more cellar time than the '11. Better than the '11, I thought.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2010 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  For me, the wine of the tasting (although hard to compare with the fully mature 1993). Light ruby colour. A Rabajà-like bouquet of griotte cherry, kirsch, strawberries and new leather. Distilled cherries also on palate, the impression of some fruit sweetness. Plums, strawberries, tobacco and spices. Satiny texture with softer tannins than the Gaiuns. Good architecture. Fine grained tannins. Complex and detailed with good length. I wouldn't open this wine for 3-5+ years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 2005 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  A darker colour here, with aromas of tar, menthol, bonfire, dark soil and black fruits. On palate, very dark fruited, with cacao, tar and smokey meats. There is a lot of structure and good volume and acids, with serious grip on the back. The tannins are spherical but the wine is still a little monolithic and closed. I'd hold it for a minimum of 3+ more years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue

• 1993 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di Grésy Barbaresco Martinenga Gaiun

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco

  Served blind but some age clearly apparent. A little musty, with earthy and sottobosco aromas. Also a Campari, orange skin character, I sometimes see in older Nebbioli. Almost an older Pinot Noir-like nature to the bouquet. After some initial fruit sweetness on palate, a beautifully integrated and mature Barbaresco. I guessed it as a 1998 Gaiun, as I saw some 1998-like richness and Gaiun character. Secondary notes of smoked meats, dry underbrush, cigar, figs and dried red fruits. Jeff described 1993 as "an in-between year" in Barbaresco. I thought that this wine competed in quality with the recent 1993 Sperss we drank. Drink or hold for a few more years.

  Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue