1982 Bordeaux @ Wilf's

NYC
Tasted Tuesday, March 22, 2005 by jamiekutch with 2,342 views

Introduction

As usual we had an amazing evening @ Wilfred van Gorps incredible loft apartment in Chelsea NYC. It's always a bonus when your friend is a Gastronomist and invites you to his home for dinner. His cooking was nothing less than superb and his recipes he used were from the best in the business including Butter Nut Squash soup from Jean George and Daniel Boulud's infamous braised short ribs that were as tender as the mash potatoes that accompanied them. Ohhh - The 82's were ROCKIN as well...

The Players were:

Wilfred van Gorp (head chef and our host)
Bill Lawrence(Super offline planner and great guy)
David Wainwright (Christies auction house representative and most knowlegable at the table - Future MW?)
Andrew Skroback (Rhone Lover)
Rob Klafter ("thats Dr. Klafter Kutch")
Jamie Kutch (The wild card in the group and narrator)

Flight 1 - Bubbles (1 Note)

I have read on the board numerous post's about this champagne. I really wanted to find the 96 vintage by this producer but had to settle as I had but an hour to find it. We paired the Champagne with some incredible tiny
Canapés from Payard's in NYC which were simply devine. Thank you Wilfred.

Flight 2 - Whites (2 Notes)

Wilfred had a Magnum of Corton-Charlemagne which he didn't hesitate to open as the first white. You can read my notes below. He then ushered everyone to the table where David has a white wrapped in foil and presented to the table. This was a truly wonderful white and an eye opening experience to how good a white can be from Australia. Keep an eye out for the Leeuwin.

  • 1996 Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    Served from Magnum. Rob said burnt rubber on the nose the wine had a slightly weird acidic, tart - almost sour note to it. The finish was short and brief and green notes were apparent as well. Not a great showing for a Grand Cru burg from 1996.

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  • 1999 Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Art Series

    Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River

    Served blind by David Wainwright. The group started off thinking California Chardonnay. Then someone thought maybe a white Rhone. Rhone was shot down then after talking about how sweet and forward the fruit was. The nose was soaring with fruit. We went back to California Chardonnay and you could make out some of the creamy oak flavors on the nose. David revealed the elegant Australian Leeuwin and people were in shock. It was an amazingly great bottle of Chardonnay and everyone loved it. Well worth keeping an eye out for a perfect wine to serve blind in a tasting. Great job David - a classy wine.

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Flight 3 - 1982 Bordeaux FLIGHT #1 (3 Notes)

Between the whites and the first flight of reds we consumed the butter nut squash soup. It was a wonderful match (as I know Wilfred planned) with not too much sweetness to detract from our wines. Wilfred, you should consider hanging up the day job and following your dream too. ;) The reds below were very good. As a stand out the Sociando nose and Ducru body and structure were my favorite’s attributes. Onto the notes…

  • 1982 Château Sociando-Mallet

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    The best nose of the trio to start. Very sweet fruit - I found the mid palate to lack in structure overall size. The finish was also light and quick. Definitely the most ready of the three with soft, perfectly integrated or hidden tannins. The nose kept me coming back for more.

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  • 1982 Château Talbot

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Initially I found the nose to have a twang and later upon tasting the wine - the sour cherries on the palate confirmed my earlier nose smell. Certainly the beefiest of the group its sheer size was welcome and surprising being its age.

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  • 1982 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Delicious nose of ripe fruit with firm tannins integrated but giving a glimpse that this wines best years are ahead of it. The backend is strong and pronounced with lots of structure in the mid palate. I choose this wine as my WOTN and was the only vote. Others didn't even vote it in their top 3. I was all alone but held my belief that this was the best Red wine of the night. To me - it was hitting on all 12 cylinders.

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Flight 4 - 1982 Bordeaux FLIGHT #2 (3 Notes)

Between flight one and flight two, Wilfred presented us with the braised short ribs. He nestled the short rib atop of some mashed potatoes and drizzled some KILLER dark broth as a finishing touch. The meat and broth were cooked for over 2 hours Wilfred casually mentioned in a medley of vegetables which were then strained and discarded. Amazingly the vegetable flavors were now embedded in the meat. I found it interesting that the broths base was a 1994 Pavie-Macquin which Parker awarded 88 points to. By the time Wilfred was done with it, the score was elevated to near perfection for my palate. Bravo Wilfred. The wines were a perfect match to this course. I have had the fortune of having this dish both at Daniel in NYC and 2 times at Wilfred's and can attest to the fact that older Bordeaux is a perfect match. Onto the notes..

  • 1982 Château Lynch-Bages

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    The nose had some cigar box, with leather notes. In the mouth the wine had great integration with a healthy dose of sweet tannins. It was full bodied with a fleshy big mouth feel. The wine still tastes like a puppy and Parker underscored this gem in the rough. A wonderful accompaniment with our cheese course. This was my 3rd favorite of the evening and the groups favorite - or WOTN for the majority.

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  • 1982 Château La Lagune

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Stinky cheese on the nose. I couldn't get past the stench and with so many winners on the table I passed on this wine altogether.

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  • 1982 Château Léoville Poyferré

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Absolutely stunning. This is a champion. I have been reading about how much Eric Levine has loved this wine over the last year and been itching to taste one. I managed to trade one from Ken V who bought 3 cases on release for $9 per bottle. This bottle had perfect storage and showed it tonight. It placed 2nd for the group and was my 2nd favorite as well. I usually shoot for WOTN but 2nd place will do tonight. Singing aromatics of sweet succulent fruit. Smells like the grapes were picked just yesterday. The texture and mouth feel is fleshy and full in body. Still muscular and loaded with nuances this wine is a keeper but drinking brilliantly now. For the price I would jump on it if I saw it.

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Flight 5 - Sauternes (2 Notes)

The cheese course was drop dead amazing that Wilfred brought out next. Everything was purchased at Murry's cheese in NYC and Wilfred was very particular about what cheese's he wanted. With reds still in glass, I devoured my plate. Soon after, Wilfred brought out a Raspberry Chocolate Mouse cake from Payard's. It was divine and I was packed to the gills. The Sauternes were out of this world and the Suduiraut was perhaps the best made wine of the evening. Bordering on perfection this is a must buy!!!

  • 1990 Château Filhot

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    This explosively aromatic Sauternes gives me a glimpse into what the amomatic potential is for the 01 Suduiraut. The Filhot explodes with crazy gobbs of ripe flavors and honey succle flavors. With tropical fruit, and intense focused flavors I was afraid to taste the palate and just left the wine on my nose for a good 3 minutes. The palate is a minor let down in comparison to the 01 Suduiraut whos harmony is close to perfect. Still the 1990 is drinking great and was a fantastic effort for a Sauterne.

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  • 2001 Château Suduiraut

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Absolutely amazing wine. This is one that everyone should have by the case load. Like a women in a golden satin dress who’s curves are to die for. Although the palate is slightly on the mute side (compared to a 1990 by its side) the palate is alive with so much flavor and sweetness. It was easy to pick up on Pineapple, honey, jelly, jams, pears, peaches, etc. etc. Layer after layer. This is a back the truck up wine. Thanks Drew and I hope to taste more of the 4 cases you own.

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Closing

It's always a pleasure seeing you guys and Wilfred thank you for you hospitality. Cheers - :)

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