All over France
Tasted Thursday, June 22, 2017 - Tuesday, June 27, 2017 by dcwino with 2,168 views
It may be surprising to some, but Burgundy is my passion.
Earlier this year, I asked a few guys to join me on an excellent adventure all over France, including three nights in Beaune. I naturally contacted Francois Mauss for his guidance. I also contacted Bernard Hervet who recently retired as the Managing Director of Faiveley and I quickly found out that we would be in Beaune during the Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot. Bernard kindly invited us to a couple of dinners.
We only had Monday and half of Tuesday for the Domaine visits. Since I am a big fan of Louis Michel’s wine, I corresponded with Louis Michel and was able to set up a visit. Bernard also set up an appointment at Domaine Faiveley. Miraculously, but not so surprisingly, Francois organized visits to DRC, Coche Dury, Rousseau and Mugnier.
Kelly and I organized the various accommodations, restaurants and transportation. One of the goals was to drink Coche Dury every day, and we almost accomplished the task but not quite.
This is the story of Kelly, Justin, RJ and Kevin’s excellent adventure!
One can argue that Taillevent is old and stuffy but I always love to dine here as I like the ambiance, cuisine and wine. The room is understated and classic. Slightly stuffy and boring with all wooden panels. As usual there are a lot of very well to do French businessmen and businesswomen, a few young and a few old, French couples and tourist couples, and a few tourists like us. The wine list is large and very impressive. There are a number of great finds, especially in mature Raveneaus. The dishes are classic and well executed, although a bit on the heavy side.
Taillevent - Poached egg, snails and chanterelles
Taillevent - Roumier Bonnes Mares
I met Stan, the Brand Ambassador for Moet Hennessy, at last year's Villa D’Este wine symposium. I emailed Stan earlier and he invited us to the Private Boutique to taste a nice bottle of Dom Pérignon. Since Stan was in the south of France, Mathilde kindly hosts us. The boutique is located near Taillevent, in a very unassuming building. I had no idea what to expect. Upon entering, the Boutique is a beautiful space. We are introduced to their properties. Mathilde shows us the various rooms, including the cellar. We sit down and she offers the 99 Dom Perignon P2 and explains the vision of the Boutique.
Moet Hennessy Private Boutique - Cellar
Moet Hennessy Private Boutique - P3
Moet Hennessy Private Boutique - Lounge
Michel, Kelly's wine travel wife, invites us to enjoy a bottle of Chablis at a wine club for the wine company that she works for. It is a really nice space with a cool basement wine cellar.
I have heard some nice things. The restaurant is in an alleyway amongst ethnic restaurants. I am hoping to drink a Coche Dury but the list has none. It is one of the most marked up lists in Paris, even compared to three Michelin star restaurants. The dishes are very well executed with very clean flavors.
We realize that Willi's wine bar is only .5 miles away. We order a bottle of Raveneau and call it a night.
We take the 9 am train to Lyon. We rent a car and proceed to Troigros. It is a beautiful serene property. The best meals of my life were had here. I love Michel’s cooking, bright acidity and a hint of sweetness with a lot of Japanese influence. The subtlety, freshness, creativity, purity, energy and intensity coexist in all of his dishes.
The wine list is exceptional. The price has definitely caught up but there are many great buys. Kelly picks the 06 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne as the starter. I order the 08 Coche Dury Perrieres. Then we seriously debate between a number of red Burgundies but settle with the 06 DRC VR 1er cru. After the meal is over, Justin wants a good value red for the pool and the sommelier recommends the 14 Lapierre Cuvee MMXIV. The weather has cooled down and we sit in the garden to try the wine. Justin likes it so much that he orders a second bottle. Meanwhile, I order the 12 Coche Dury Meursault which is drinking incredibly well, especially for a village wine.
Absolutely gorgeous setting, very natural, almost wild garden.
Michel's interpretation of pizza with thinly sliced fresh white mushroom.
Intensely flavored small clams, beautiful olive oil and freshest vegetables.
Small local wild mushrooms and white summer truffle, beautiful earthy dish.
Oyster omelette.
Most succulent and flavorful crayfish.
Perfectly cooked rouget.
Perfectly executed sweetbread!
Beautiful cheese cart!
Magical Egg - Before
Magical Egg - After
Papillon - Before
Papillon -After
Dinner is just about to start.
The same sommelier as our last visit almost ten years ago.
The wine list from when French and German vignerons came to Troisgros during their bike trip.
Beautiful smoked trout.
Yes, please!
The best spring roll ever!
Langoustine - Before
Langoustine - After
Duck with dry herbs.
An absolutely immaculate kitchen.
The boys and Michel.
Beautiful piece of lamb.
Very pretty, between crepe and mochi.
Beautiful and relaxing dining room.
The best wine was the Coche village which was not even in the picture as it was our nightcap.
We bid farewell to Michel and Marie-Pierre and head to Beaune. I call the restaurant and inform that we are leaving from Troisgros and may be 30 minutes late. We opt to take local roads through Charolais, the beef capital of France. We drive to the nice restaurant for a leisurely wine lunch.
The young chef/proprietor comes out and tells us that he used to be a cook at Troisgros. He seems to be very well connected. He recently cooked at Domaine de la Romanee Conti for a few dozen guests. As a thank you gift, Aubert gave him a couple bottles of the 65 Romanee Conti to drink.
We all order and enjoy the Poulet de bresse with copious amount of morels. Later he comes back and explain that in order to provide the earthy morel taste, he has to use dry morels.
Once the young sommelier figures out that we truly love wine, we are able to order the 12 Coche Dury Perrieres which is not on the list.
Amuse Bouche
Langoustine soup
Fried small fish, very clean delicious flavor
Foie Gras torchon
Poulet de Bresse - table side service
Poulet de Bresse
Desserts
Justin and Kelly being funny.
Cool, hole in the wall kinda pub, great beer, bartender and music.
Bernard Hervet invited us to a private dinner to honor Musique & Vin au Clos Vougeot artists at 1243 Bourgogne Society, an exclusive private wine club he started a couple years ago. It is a stone's throw away from the Hospice de Beaune. Bernard and his team painstakingly restored an old convent for nuns. By the time when we arrive, there are a lot of guests. It is a BYOB event and everyone is generously sharing their treasures. We walk out to the beautiful garden to enjoy the beautiful night. RJ and Kelly are smoking Cubans and Darioush of Darioush Winery joins us. It is a wonderful evening.
Unopened dinner wines
All showing nicely, except the 69 Faiveley Musigny.
Justin and Kelly came here during lunch for a reconnaissance mission. The list is solid. There are a lot of wine makers and wine personalities. A beautiful night to be in Beaune.
We finish the Ente and bring the Dujac to Le Cep to complement the pizza.
Laurent Vialette, a fellow Grand Jury Europeen member, asked us to join us at George Blanc a few days ago. Although we had lunch plans, we decided to join him instead. Kelly and I met Laurent over ten years ago. Being a typical French man, it took awhile for him to warm up to us. Once that happened, we have been great friends, sharing many memorable bottles. He drinks more great French wines than anyone I know. He has one of the best palates and has passion for great wine and great cuisine.
We misunderstood Laurent and we went to George Blanc's three star formal restaurant. We soon figured out that he is at L'Ancienne Auberge, a more casual sister restaurant. It is a nice casual atmosphere with mostly locals. It is eight of us, three from US, four including Laurent from Switzerland and one from China.
George Blanc's Cellar
Copious amount of frog's leg.
Poulet de Bresse with morel in vin jaune
Lunch wine
The weather is nice and cool. The setting at Chateau Clos Vougeot is intimate. The acoustics due to being held in the court yard is excellent. It is a beautiful moment. The concert is followed by the gala dinner. The charity auction sees some strong action.
Kelly generously brings the bottle down. We order flat bread.
We arrive at the domaine a few minutes before 9 am. We see Francois walking towards us with his signature smile. Francois introduces to us Sandro Khatiashvili, a Georgian wine lover, who now imports wine to Russia.
The Gang with Francois and Sandro. Sandro has encyclopedic knowledge of everything Burgundy. He put us to shame but we really enjoy his explanation of Vosne grand crus and premier cru vineyards.
Unlike the Brazilian sommelier, we simply admire and pay respect.
Domaine's second cellar. It is impeccably clean.
M. Noblet is hard at work. He will be retiring this year. A great man of Burgundy but incredibly humble.
2016 DRC barrels, all are resting in the second cellar.
2016 Romanee Conti
2016 Romanee Conti and La Tache
The gate to heaven
Romanee Conti anyone?
Let the blind tasting begin!
Dear Francois is hard at work!
1965 Romanee Conti - Absolutely fabulous. It is hard to believe the vintage.
The gang with M. Noblet.
Louis-Michel is making some of the best wines and his 16s are incredible.
The gang with Louis-Michel.
Louis Michel is in top form. His 16s are warm and approachable but also very pure and concentrated. He generously opens a half dozen also of his library wines. His goal is quite clear - simply make the best wine!
Anne-Ceclie guides us to taste a half dozen 15s in bottle as well as a couple library wines. Unfortunately, the cellar is under construction so we aren't able to taste the 16s from barrel.
We are greeted by Raphael. He informs us that his father will conduct the tasting. I have only met Jean Francois a few times, a stoic very introverted man that seldom smiles. Bacchus must be smiling on us as he seems to be in a great mood. He generously opens many bottles including the 10 Corton Charlemagne. After pouring the wine, he takes a glass to Raphael as it has been three years since he opened the last bottle. The wine is sheer perfection. Yet the wine that gets me teary eyed is the 96 Auxey-Duresses.
Hands of vinegron.
Coche Dury vineyard next to the domaine.
Jean Francois, Francois and Kelly.
Emotional visit for me.
Everyone is smilling, including Jean Francois!
This is a hidden treasure. I have been communicating with the sommelier/proprietor Corinne for about six months. As we enter, she recognizes us and greets with a big smile. As we admire her list, the guys whom we met at Comte Liger Belair walks in. They must have overheard my conversation with Louis Michel regarding dinner plans. There is no time to waste and we promptly order the 05 and 08 La Tache.
Corinne is just about to decant the 05 and 08 La Tache.
Real coq au vin, may be a real rooster as the meat is tough and flavorful.
Simply stunning!
Nightcap 1 - slightly off
Nightcap 2 - better
We arrive a bit early and Eric greets us. Frederic rushes in and takes us down to the cellar. He is a really interesting person to talk to. He tells us that he gave up working for a supermarket chain as it wasn’t really rewarding. He started working for Rousseau in 2006. He has serious concerns regarding the exorbitant price of the top vineyard and the French inheritance laws. For the next generation, the temptation to cash out is too great.
Francois tells us a great story. After the war, Charles was one of the few growers who was able to afford chemical fertilizers and he used it liberally. When he found out the damage it caused, he stopped, and it took much longer for the domaine's vineyards to get back to a healthy state.
Frederic gave up 9 to 5, attended oenology school in Beaune and now makes wine. Fascinating story
The gang and Frederic.
1929 Original Chambertin label.
I last visited the domaine over ten years ago. Frederic is a serious and quiet gentleman. His wines are very precise and pure. I am particularly enamored by the 16 Amoureuses. He tells us he loves the style of Rousseau. He also loves Roumier and is a good friend to Christophe Roumier.
The gang with Frederic Mugnier.
My beef cheek stew cooked with Pinot noir for 12 hours is good. Justin orders pigeon. I warn him that pigeon is very gamey. He starts with the legs and proclaims that it is not gamey. Then he proceeds with the rare breast. He regrets ordering the dish. RJ’s Bresse chicken liver is also very gamey. The meal is mediocre but at least the wine is good. Francois has a meeting and so we bid farewell. Soon after, we head to the Dijon train station.
Beautiful view
Another beautiful View
1988 Roumier Bonnes Mares - Incredible
Amuse Bouche
Langouste aka Spiny Lobster
Best Foie Gras of my life, a whole foie gras slowly roasted
Best Foie Gras of my life
"Real" baby pig - two servings ordered, but received three. A great dish!
The second dish - crispy skin with dark meat. A very good dish.
The third dish - au pied de cochon would be my guess. A great dish!
Francois made all our visits possible, and I can't thank him enough. Ever since I met Francois over ten years ago, he has been a great mentor and friend. We all agreed this is the greatest wine trip of our lives!
2009 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
(6/22/2017)
Pop and pour, coiled nose displaying ripe citrus, lemon curd, honey, white flowers, saline, strong mineral a la wet stone and a hint of honey. Excellent concentration, oily, dense and coiled. Bright acidity and a long mineral and honey driven finish. With air, it opens up, displaying generous citrus fruit and honey. The ripeness is in line with the other 09 Raveneaus; however, the wine displays a greater precision and focus. Needs minimum ten more years to reach maturity.
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2007 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares 96 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
(6/22/2017)
Expressive nose displaying decadent but pure and fresh red and a hint of black fruits, crushed raspberry and blackberry, strawberry rhubarb tart, caramel, sweet spices, strong sap and earth. Excellent concentration, nicely layered, crushed strawberry and blackberry driven palate impression, earthy mineral, good acidity, a hint of tannins and a long sweet fruit driven finish. For my palate, this is evolving like the 01. As such, I prefer the nose to the palate. Obviously youthful but incredibly enjoyable.
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