South Florida does Lafleur

Cafe Maxx, Pompano Beach, Florida
Tasted Friday, September 7, 2007 by sdr with 1,079 views

Introduction

Once again, our local collector of many years with the golden cellar makes this extraordinary tasting possible. All the wines were purchased on or near release or at reputable auctions, mostly in London. Nary a one was corked, oxidized or spoiled. The tasting was not blind and there was bread and cheese available at the beginning, followed by a full meal to sample the wines with food if there was any left in the glass. Decanting times varied from a few minutes for the older examples ato a couple of hours for the younger ones. It was very useful to have other Pomerols inserted for comparison.

Flight 1 - Clearing the palate (1 Note)

  • 2000 Château Pape Clément Blanc 81 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Offered as a "rince bouche" before the grand Lafleur tasting at Cafe Maxx. Light and delicate, certainly correct, but too inconsequential for this fine estate for white as well as red.

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Flight 2 - The decade of the nineties (5 Notes)

  • 1996 Château Lafleur 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    This vintage showed much better than the '95 that immediately preceeded it and got better as it sat in the glass, always a good sign. A bit thin in texture, yet sweet and seductive. Floral and elegant. Very, very fine.

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  • 1995 Château Lafleur 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Unusual style for Lafleur - or any wine. It smelled like sea water and green vegetables which was off-putting. Fortunately, it tasted much better than it smelled and had good energy and mouthfeel, but none of the famous Lafleur perfume or elegance. At age 12, it could be just another awkward adolescent.

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  • 1994 Château Lafleur 82 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    A pleasant enough plummy Merlot with decent intensity but monolithic and although sound, rather dull. The dry finish does not portend well for the future.

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  • 1990 Château Lafleur 88 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Very black, very young, very muscular. The only smell I could detect was camphor, which in small doses can add olfactory interest if it is buffered by fruit, but it wasn't here in this glass. Nothing remarkable on the palate either. It seems impossible that Lafleur could swing and miss in 1990, so perhaps an unrepresentative bottle.

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  • 1990 Château La Conseillante 87 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    I've had better examples of the 1990 LC which is usually spectacularly rich and fruit driven. This one was good but a lacking the energy and that delightful sweet raspberry fruit it usually demonstrates.

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Flight 3 - The decade of the eighties (4 Notes)

  • 1988 Château Lafleur 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    This to me was the surprise over-performer of the Lafleur vertical, second only to the 1982 in the '76 - '96 two decade sample. Lots of red and black licorice pour out of the glass with terrific density and weight. Even two hours later it held up brilliantly. Really delicious now and seems younger than its 19 years from a middling vintage for Pomerol.

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  • 1985 Château Lafleur 84 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Lafleur should have done better in 1985 if this perfectly stored bottle is a fair representation. The color is a terrific deep dark ruby with no sign of age. But there's a touch of reduction (rubber) on the nose which refused to blow off and only modest weight, concentration and length without enough complexity to make it particularly interesting. Nineteen eight-five arguably favored the right bank and there are other Pomerols which are better, especially L'Evangile (included in this vertical) but also L'Eglise Clinet which is positively spectacular.

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  • 1985 Château L'Evangile 90 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    A resounding success for L'Evangile and for me consistently one of the top wines of this vintage. Velvety, weighty and emphatic. Terrific grip and firm finish. Both spicy and fruity. At its best now that the tannins are finally resolved and it should hold very well.

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  • 1982 Château Lafleur 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Definitely the best in show among the eight Lafleurs on display, but not the most thrilling '82 Lafleur I have been lucky enough to taste. The color is deep ruby at the center but no longer juvenile with a hint of orange at the meniscus. The bouquet is stunning - dark, dark plum, cherry and raspberry. Big, luscious, sweet and downright fabulous for sure. The only thing lacking is that special kinky exotic kirsch flavor that some '82 Lafleurs have. Still, its hardly a disappointment and should drink well for many years.

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Flight 4 - The decade of the seventies (3 Notes)

  • 1976 Château Lafleur 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    Decent color for age with a bricky edge. Very nicely aromatic, Burgundian spice and forest floor. On the positive side, it's soft, delicate, perfectly clean and correct. But the thin, short, marginally sour finish gives away its age and modest finish.

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  • 1976 Pétrus 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    It's Petrus all right and pleasant enough but nothing very special. Since the bottle was purchased on or near release and perfectly stored, provenance can not be blamed. A bit bigger wine than the corresponding Lafleur. The nose is quiet but there's an attractive vestige of blackberry on the palate. Medium weight, short finish. Past its best but a decent drink - better if you don't see the label and expect too much.

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  • 1976 Château Trotanoy 85 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    About what you would anticipate from a well made Trotanoy from a modest vintage for the appelation. Qualitatively the same as the Petrus but sylistically different since there was a quite attractive topnote of soft summer strawberry. A bit of coarse tannin is still in the the background so the balance is slightly off kilter. Still has a pulse but it is fading.

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Flight 5 - The closer (1 Note)

  • 1997 Château d'Yquem 84 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Surprising weak. Nicely sweet and tasty, but just the barest hint of botrytis. At age ten, of course it isn't mature, but the baby fat should have worn off and the instrinsic power should be detectable. Pretty flavors of pineapple, peach and orange peel. It's okay - but this is YQUEM and the expectations are great. From limited tastings, I believe the '99 is better.

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Closing

So, what to conclude? Clearly, Lafleur is capable of greatness - but not very often. Curiously, none of these bottles showed just how distinctive Lafleur can be and how different from Petrus, Trotanoy, Certan de May, L'Evangile, L'Eglise Clinet or other top tier Pomerols. Many of the glamor vintages were on display, but only the '82 (partially) lived up to the hype. And in any given vintage or any given bottle, one or more of the others can be more enjoyable. As usual, these types of comparative tastings are highly informative and capable of destroying preconceived notions.

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