Schildknizzle in the House

SFJoe's
Tasted Friday, November 9, 2007 by Keith Levenberg with 682 views

Flight 1 (8 Notes)

  • 1964 Domaine Huet Vouvray Pétillant Sec 93 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray Pétillant

    Still has a decent mousse with fine pinpoint Badoit-like bubbles, even though it would have tasted just fine without them. Sunny yellow color with fruit like a custard cream filling.

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  • 1946 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu 97 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Like no other substance I've ever encountered. An intense nose of hickory smoke builds in intensity for hours taking on all manner of savory scents from mushrooms to crumbled bacon bits. It starts out wild, the acidity so searing it seems almost spritzy, then calms down and transmogrifies into pure umami, tasting more like chicken broth than wine.

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  • 1971 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu 96 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    The most polished, seamlessly composed wine of the night, beautifully proportioned without the slightest blemish. The integration is so complete some criticize it for a lack of complexity, which kind of misses the point. Maybe it only plays one note but it's a haunting one, dramatic and sustained.

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  • 1957 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Clos du Bourg 94 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Mealy in aroma and the driest of the demi-secs tonight, with a darker fruit profile and wheaty, grainy elements that provide a nice austerity to counter the sweetness. The attack is more of a chord, different elements in unison but each on its own plane.

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  • 1955 Ackerman Vouvray Premiére Tête Clos Le Mont 90 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Huet's Le Mont from before Huet owned it and very different in taste from the Huets in the lineup, drier with a more aged patina and stronger green elements culminating in a fresh herbal finish.

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  • 1947 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu 99 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Doesn't actually say moelleux or demi-sec or anything else on the label, just straight-up Le Haut-Lieu, but demi-sec is how it tastes, at least now. The color of this wine alone bespeaks something special -- dark Cherokee-red and Cognac color with a refraction of deep green around the edges that almost seems to cast a radioactive glow. The fruit profile is more red than white, packing in raspberries and cerise that still come across plump and fresh-picked.

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  • 1936 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu 85 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Actually drier than the younger demisecs. Deep, dark, and brooding, surely had its better days.

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  • 1969 D'Oliveiras Madeira Sercial Reserva 90 Points

    Portugal, Madeira

    Nice night when the Madeira is one of the youngest wines of the evening but a special experience nonetheless. Strong nuttiness and some dried fruit and coffee grounds in the bouquet, more of a digestif than a wine but flavored less like brandy than whiskey and rye with just enough sweetness or glycerine to reign in the austerity.

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