Chicago Smackdown: California vs. Bordeaux 1985-1990

3 Bordeaux and 3 California cabs from the '85-90 tasted single blind: '85 Caymus, '85 Dunn Howell Mt, '85 Cos d'Estournel, '87 Mondavi Reserve, '90 Rausan-Segla, '90 Bon Pasteur, more or less randomly chosen from the Olympia Fields cellar. Goal was to see how they were doing and try to determine if there was a wine of the night. Wines were poured about 20 minutes before starting, but not decanted.

• 1985 Château Cos d'Estournel 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  Good positive color. Dreamy nose of plum and tobacco. Best so far. Beautiful condition. My #1, event #3.

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• 1987 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Smackdown wine 6. Most closed of all the wines. Tight California fruit. Big and bold, dusty tannins, long finish. ID'd as California. My #4, event #3

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• 1985 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

  Smackdown #3. More high-toned fruit than #1. Seems California. Real pay off here in the finish. Mature plummy fruit. My #2, event #1.

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• 1985 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 55 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Smackdown #2. Putrid, either severely corked or just plain off. Some unappealing candied notes. Undrinkable.

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I identified 4 of the 6 by country but it was tough. You had to really pay attention to the fruit. Except for the Caymus, which was undrinkable, the others were in excellent condition and got better with time. The Dunn was the clear winner, scoring 3 first place votes and one second (mine). I picked the '85 Cos, but it and the Caymus were the only two I got right.