Four French Wines with Legendary Reputations

Washington, D.C.
Tasted Friday, May 30, 2008 by drwine2001 with 384 views

Introduction

All I can say is that I am so thankful to have friends with the passion and generosity to open bottles like these on the occasion of a brief visit. What a treat to taste these wines!

Flight 1 (4 Notes)

  • 2002 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    Pale yellow. After being open for an hour, this showed little on the nose and had a round mouth feel with a creamy, lactic quality (I would have guessed Corton Charlemagne at this point, not Chablis). No premature oxidation here. Gradually, more Chablisien characteristics of lemon oil, brine, and even mint emerged, and the wine became leaner and more focused with each pour. I've experienced the same sort of reverse evolution in young Dauvissats, and I believe this phenomenon bodes well for a wine's aging potential. From beginning to end, it had a powerful, explosive finish. Fascinating to try now, undeniable potential to be great down the road, but far too young to enjoy more than a fraction of its pleasures.

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  • 1998 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune

    France, Alsace

    Medium yellow-gold. Immediate, soaring, grappa-like petrol and dried peach on the nose. Medium weight, quite dry, perhaps a hint of botrytis, and almond on the palate. All of the soil comes at the end with great intensity, and to me, this was the best part of this bottle. Very good, perhaps even excellent Alsatian Riesling but not a great Clos St. Hune. Less concentrated, mineral, and fresh than the 1990 we drank this month (which only underscored how great that vintage really is). In fact, this is the only vintage I've tried which had any detectable oxidation--probably wise to err on the side of drinking these sooner rather than holding for the 15-20 year haul.

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  • 1998 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Medium ruby with minimal lightening at the edges. Lots of VA on the nose (Amarone-like?) along with prune, fig, and spice. I was surprised that the wine was not more syrupy and overwhelming on the palate given the superripe nose. It was "merely" very large scaled but not overtly hot or heavy. All of the Port-like fruit described above was accompanied by a deep note of dark chocolate and some shape provided by buried, round tannins, so the palate and flavors are not devoid of interest. If you crave idiosyncratic, this is the wine for you. Definitely not my favorite style, and I honestly can't see the balance improving with further cellaring since the volatile component can only become more prominent.

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  • 1995 Château Tirecul La Gravière Monbazillac Cuvée Madame

    France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Monbazillac

    Deep burnished amber with some orange. Vanilla, creme brulee, and caramel more than tropical fruit. Great concentration and viscosity, borderline acidity that avoids a sense of being cloying. Drinking well now, but I strongly prefer more fruit and acidity than this shows.

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