Wines of Cyprus

Tasted Monday, May 19, 2008 - Tuesday, June 10, 2008 by AndrewSGHall with 909 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2004 Domaine Hadjiantonas Shiraz

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (4/26/2008)

    Nice. More prominent tannins and an edge to the wine not present before. Nice weight, some aromatics. A bit of sweetness in the middle brought on by the weight overpowering the acids and body, but not a huge flaw.

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  • 2004 KEO Maratheftiko Heritage

    Cyprus

    (5/18/2008)

    This really surfed an edge between modern make-up and the old-school nature of the variety. Five drinkers from the jaded like myself to the basic really grooved on it w/ a long-smoked Berkshire pork shoulder. Lots of really dark and funky fruit and that Maratheftiko gamey nose, but really jazzed up in a way which complimented. Gorgeous.

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Flight 2 (5 Notes)

  • 2007 Aes Ambelis Xynisteri-Semillon

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (6/2/2008)

    Pleasant, light nose of grass seeds and peonies. A bit of weight on the body with a nice crispness, slight bitters and a satin texture. Extract and slight glycerol-feel, but not alcohol. Good finish with citrus oil, agave and nuts. Nice overall package, in the upper echelon of this Cyprus Xyni whites.

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  • 2007 Fikardos Winery Spourtiko

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (6/6/2008)

    Slightly soapy nose with crisp and pungent elements of grass and sour hay. Light body, lots of acids and continuation of hay/grass thing. Short finish, some mineral-esque elements. This was a ringer for some Picpouls I've had and it wouldn't suprise me if this was the same variety.

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  • 2006 Ktima Christoudia Tihikos Moschato Dry Malaga

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (6/4/2008)

    Saline nose. A bit of dried flowers and cobwebs. Slightly saline on the front palate, lime and chalk. Abrupt finish. Eh. Not much here and not much nice.

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  • 2007 Vasilikon

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/30/2008)

    Lovely nose with purity and essential Cyprus 'garrigue' backing peachy fruit. Nice precision and purity on the palate. Crisp acids, light body with some mineral and flower - very lightly. Angostura bitters on the finish. Lovely stuff and exactly on point for what it is. Easy to see why this is consistently one of the best and popular choices here.

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  • 2007 Tsiakkas Winery Chardonnay

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/25/2008)

    Almost SB-like nose with grassiness and slight musk. Moderate acids but a creaminess and softness overwhelms. Narrow structure. Light and medium length finish. Not complex or deep, but overall nice enough and pleasant. Problem is that it lacks the acidity and is too high in alcohol (creaminess and a chill hide it) for a good summer refreshing white, but really doesn't have the stuffing for something more. One is left wondering 'why?' here.

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Flight 3 (6 Notes)

  • 2003 Fikardos Winery Lefkada

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/23/2008)

    Dark and brooding colour. Good nose of meat, dried currants and slight adhesive note. Big body, broad and a bit rough. Good elements of leather, clove and more dried currants. Still some mocha/oak notes lingering. Rough edges linger with the finish. Carries itself well, but also planted more in a generic Meritage groove than its own vibe.

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  • 2005 Vineyards Argyrides Saint Timon

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/24/2008)

    Started off with a really volatile acidic nose. Did blow off quickly. Definite mataro-funkiness going on with the fruit on the nose - latex, slight balsamic, grape-y fruit. Broad shoulders on the structure. Picked up weight over time with more phenolic notes, tobacco and slightly bitter tannins which dominanted over the acid after a bit. Tried to hold on to a balance wth moderate success. Did well with grilled fatty meats though. Fine enough, but lacking any distinctive elements.

    Comparing to the '03 tasted 6 mos ago gives a fairly good picture of what this wine is about and its intentions.

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  • 2003 Tsiakkas Winery Vamvakada

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/6/2008)

    Very purple. Light nose with soft plums and slight meat. Soft fruit and tannins. Very round structure with a off-putting lack of delineation. Developed some solidity with time and a good spiciness. Very satiny. Time gave Turkish coffee notes like before and a tightening of the lines. A different expression of this variety (Maraftheftiko) than most others.

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  • 2006 KEO Maratheftiko Heritage

    Cyprus

    (6/4/2008)

    Nice full nose w/ plums, hung meat and curing spices. Broad body, grainy tannins and slightly pruney fruit. Medium weight, some of the Mara-funk, but also a lavage of oak and treatment and yeasts. Experience w/ the '04 says this could work, but who knows what kind of 'exciting' new things they've done in the last two years.

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  • 2003 Domaine Nicolaides Flawed

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/30/2008)

    Oxidized nose and palate.

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  • 2006 Vineyards Argyrides Maratheftiko

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/2/2008)

    Plums and spice nose. A bit of gamey Mara funk. Very slick - not in a bad way - fruit with a tarry underneath and some clove-y nubbins. Bright and clean. Nice finish with pleasing soft fruit, slight confection and a bit of meat. Razor-line here between the heft and rusticity of the variety and a modern styling and make-up. Time pushes it more on the modern side in a sanitizing kind of way. Still good.

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

  • 2006 ETKO Shiraz Olympus winery

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/30/2008)

    Dark colour. Dark plum conserve nose. A bit of alcohol heat. Intense fruit with a perceptible, but pleasing sweet core. Big body, medium slightly grainy texture. Nice tapering finish with cassis and tobacco. Nicely done in its style.

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  • 2002 Kolios Winery Shiraz

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (6/4/2008)

    Blank nose, maybe a little grape must. Light body, acids and slightly green fruit. Smooths out to finish with full ripeness and some tobacco/mocha. Dampens too much on the finish and doesn't deliver. Not bad, but an incomplete wine.

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Flight 5 (6 Notes)

  • 2007 Zambartas Sémillon

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/26/2008)

    Not giving much on the nose. Good snap right off on the palate and bright acids. Semillon typicity and well done w/o dustiness. Good structure, weight and cut, but really not giving a broad flavor. Time faceted out the acids and gave some citrus rind as well as some tumeric (?) like spice. Odd white bean notes on the finish. Interesting potential here.

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  • 2007 Zambartas Lefkada - Cabernet Franc

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/26/2008)

    Nice dark pink glow. Light, nice nose with bergamot and another perfume base I can't place. Straight up rose hips and chamomile with an appealing creaminess underneath and for the finish. No heat. Bloomed out with a really nice grapefruit and straw nose. Acids picked up and played well as this wine shifted its focus. Dry finish and suprising complexity. Even the following morning, this was a grooving pretty well.

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  • 2006 Zambartas Maratheftiko-Shiraz

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/26/2008)

    Musky and lanolin nose, but felt a little tired. Generic Shiraz-y character - which is not a good thing. Persistent in this through the evening which is something.

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  • 2006 Zambartas Lefkada - Shiraz

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/29/2008)

    (Bottled, but not released.) A bit of spritz from bottling CO2 which gives a slightly off-texture - dissipates and resolves to a big fruit nose with Lefkada funk, leather and spice. Plenty of power. Nice acids, if a bit narrow on the palate. Good precision on the body and very nice structure with the leathery notes holding the fruit in check. Persistent finish with some smoke and fruit dry-down. Good and has a character.

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  • 2007 Zambartas Lefkada - Shiraz

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/29/2008)

    (Barrel notes)

    Shiraz, 2nd yr of barrel : Good primary stuff with plenty of acids and body. Light kiss of oak notes. Some softness on the finish.

    Lefkada, new barrel : Leather and spice nose from the oak are dominant on the nose. Clean acids on the back with some fruit. Very fighting tannins.

    Lefkada/Shiraz pressings, old oak : Very tight and nutty with a very feisty body. Lots of weight to put in the final bottling is apparent.

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  • 2007 Zambartas Xynisteri-Semillon

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (5/26/2008)

    Nice clean and grassy nose though w/o a good chill the alcohol is readily apparent. Some dandelion flower, a little sea spray. Crisp and more grassy up front to taste. A little musk and spice underlying the usual Xynisteri. Lays a bit heavy on the palate. Short finish with a slight rasp. Good balance of flavours overall. Good and the layering of complexity over the typical Xynisteri is nice, but comes at the cost of too much alcohol which is stealthy when this is chilled.

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Flight 6 (6 Notes)

  • 2007 Domaine Vlassides Lefkos

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Nice floral and brush notes on the nose. Terse fruit. Nice body with a richness and a slight spicy burn (in a good way). Good acids which linger. Well-rounded and complete. Upper echelon for the style.

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  • 2006 Domaine Vlassides Shiraz

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Tight fruit nose, slighty malt note, alcohol just perceptible. Big fruit, some nice spicing. Coffee and dark fruit compote. Nice structure with a good tension. Overall slightly incomplete in a transitional way not a flawed way. More primary than the restaurant bottle a week before.

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  • 2004 Domaine Vlassides Maratheftiko

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    (From ~100yr old vines) I had heard about this wine and was majorly stoked to get a chance to try it. Definite Mara gamey/musky nose, but more suave, like it was blended in a cologne. A good funky vibe. Incredibly smooth from top to finish. Soft, complete tannins - perfect mesh with plummy fruit. Great push and persistence. Really vibrational in structure with all the signature perfume in between. Just sings.

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  • 2005 Domaine Vlassides Cabernet Sauvignon

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Big fruit nose with core leather and pu-erh. Good fighting tannins on the front, very brisk. More complex tea notes, dark fruits and earthy (not roast) coffee notes. Heavy finish with very good persistence. Very tight and compact with good balance. Plum fruits and a bit of leather round out as it opens. Very good.

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  • 2004 Domaine Vlassides Cabernet Sauvignon

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/31/2008)

    Slight oak off the top nose, but a natural wood vibe more than toast. Light body with a really strong grip. Curranty, coffee finesse which dries down really well to the finish. An airy texture which is suprising in a Cab. Great clarity and precision here. Opens up even stronger and has an impeccable timing between the phases. Oak gone, fruit attentuated to ripe currants and a pleasing spice. Great finish of tapering to darker fruits and leather with a good penetration. High quality here with a special vibe.

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  • 2006 Domaine Vlassides Shiraz

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/29/2008)

    ( Neon Phaliron, Limassol ) Straight black fruit and slight molasses nose. Mouth-filling fruit with a nice acid streak, a slight middle sweetness and a slightly smokey note. Medium finish with a nice heft, some coffee and a good tapering down of fruit and a little spice kick. Nice balance. Clearly establishing itself with New World stylings and well-made in its genre. Nice with grilled meat mixture.

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Flight 7 (5 Notes)

  • 2004 Ayia Mavri

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Fruit and tobacco nose. Tight and compact with some lurking power. Nice.

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  • 2007 Ayia Mavri Opthalmo Rose

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Cool perfumes and green tea on the nose. Slight sweetness integrated into rose hips and strawberry fruit. Clean finish. Good stuff.

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  • 2005 Ayia Mavri Mosxatos

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Same nose as the '04 had with orange liqueurs. Bitter backing is nice, but whole effect is more confected and alarmingly consistent with earlier experiences with the '04. I am beginning to suspect the characteristic aromas and flavors are derived from the winemaking (yeast choice?) more than the vineyard. The clarity of the nose on the dry version agrees.

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  • 2007 Ayia Mavri Muscat

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Gorgeous nose with orange flower water and a slight prickle. Cactus pears on the palate with good clarity and clean finish. Some mead-y notes in the middle round this out. Nice.

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  • 2004 Ayia Mavri Mosxatos

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/6/2008)

    Dark colour. Duller nose wth honey and little florals. Very messy with marmalade elements coming out and very little structure. Big loss of precision and a fakeness feeling. I'd think to call it an off bottle, but similar tasting of '05 and of another bottle say no.

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Flight 8 (5 Notes)

  • 2005 Gaia Inotechniki Salome

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Very harsh nose. Drying and crashing on the tongue. Some fruit and something else, which I am not liking. Tannins are raw and biting.

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  • 2005 Gaia Inotechniki Cabernet Sauvignon Kylix

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Nice green peppercorn spice on the nose and palate. Smooth, good integration of fruits, tannins and acids. Good finish. Well-balanced. Not venturing out much, but long on potential there.

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  • 2007 Gaia Inotechniki Oenanthi

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Nice and true light grenache-y funk on the nose, followed by light fruit. Nice body, tea notes on the finish. Very nice.

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  • 2007 Gaia Inotechniki Xynisteri Ambelidha

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/1/2008)

    Mineral, slightly seashore nose. Slight grassiness. Light body with a nice upfront grip . Decent acids which are followed by a striking bitter penetration which is not a bad thing. Short finish with consistent elements.

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  • 2004 Gaia Inotechniki Agravani

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/1/2008)

    Somewhat off-putting nose like broken-down latex and burnt grease. Tight acids up front with a nice uncoiling of bright red fruit. A bit of green streak in the middle. Short finish. Not as bad as the nose suggested, but not really any depth or charm either.

    Day 2: Flattens out to a bit more solid base and balance. OTOH, not particularly interesting either.

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Flight 9 (8 Notes)

  • 2007 Domaine Hadjiantonas Semi-Sparkling

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    More clarity and integration this time. Good Muscat aromatics bloom off with about 10 min air (and a curved-in glass.) Orange flowers and slight Cyprus delight. Much more enjoyable - my wife was right.

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  • 2007 Domaine Hadjiantonas Chardonnay

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Tropical fruits on the nose with a backing of Cyprus scrub and brush on the back. Very bright and crisp, well-delineated. Precise fruit with pomelo and myrrh notes in there. Tropical fruits come to the fore and the same play of sweetness, but balanced in acids and mineral. Very well-structured. Excellent quality here.

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  • 2005 Domaine Hadjiantonas Shiraz

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Blooming nose with slight eucalyptus inside dark fruits. Tight structure with even tannins and a clove-y bite. More aromatics like on the nose, but smooth on the finish. Still some smokey oak lingering and time make the vanilla/mocha more prominent. Well-balanced and a strength that slowly uncoils. This will improve and hit a nice, if New World, vibe.

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  • 2004 Domaine Hadjiantonas Cabernet & Shiraz

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Nice nose with a funk, a vibe and cigarbox. Velvet texture and very svelte. Medium acids. Fruit in a parallax kind of way. Cured, not confected. Slight brine and nice prunes. Medium finish. Nice play in the shadows of the receded fruit. Not sure this will go to make old bones, but the effect of being in transition is very nice.

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  • 2006 Domaine Hadjiantonas Merlot

    Cyprus, Paphos

    (6/3/2008)

    Tight nose with some alcohol heat, plenty of phenolics. Opens to more plums and cedar. Good mouthfeel with restrained power. Solid body leads into fruit-driven, slightly spicy finish. Definitely bottle raspy. Wildly primary with good elements in array. Solidly New World.

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  • 2007 Domaine Hadjiantonas Chardonnay

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/31/2008)

    Not much on the nose, some pale tropical fruits. Austere and mineral to start. Fruit of golden raisins and passion fruit. Slight sweetness on the finish. Good body w/o thickness. Handles a nice balance of that pinge of sweetness even with fairly demure acids. Stays rock steady for an evening picking up a little mango fruit and more mineral. Nicely done.

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  • 2007 Domaine Hadjiantonas Semi-Sparkling

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (5/30/2008)

    Light nose with sweetness, light perfume-y florals. Sticky and sweet on the palate. Neither sweetness nor bubbles integrated well with the wine base. Slightly bitter finish. Refreshing poolside, but very much like a basic Moscato d'Asti. My wife liked it more than I and found it the perfect refresher.

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  • 2007 Domaine Hadjiantonas Organic Sultana

    Cyprus, Limassol

    (6/3/2008)

    Really light and clear on the optic. Sunny nose with sweet floral, tropical dried fruit. Hi Spat-level sweetness on the top which leaves a slight tacky finish. Good body and the sweetness has a good character like agave juice. Nice and full. Required some warming to express aromatics which venture into mandarins as well. A bit low on the acids results in a lack of precision which becomes a fault. Different and its character carries it far. Will have to try some food matches to understand this better.

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    According to Theo Hadjiantonas, this was an experiment in challenge as to what to do with the sadly rubbished surfeit of Sultana table grapes. I hope he carries on further trials as there is good potential not fully realized, but on a good path.

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