UK Wine Forum 'Vintage Pairs' Offline

Le Colombier, London
Tasted Friday, June 20, 2008 by SimonG with 366 views

Introduction

An excellent evening: thanks to Neil for arranging and everyone for bring a lovely selection of wines. Reading back through my notes I wonder if I was fractionally hard on everything tasted? Maybe it's the rushing through a small sample rather than considering a glass at length, but I think everything was half a star below where it might be with more time to contemplate. Anyway, a fun evening of good wines with decent food, in a good venue, and with great company.

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Flight 3 (2 Notes)

  • 1991 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Darker of the pair - light golden yellow. Slightly smokey nose, chardonnay, creamy with reasonable length. OK, but probably seen better days. **1/2

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  • 2000 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Lighter yellow than wine A. Lactic, cammembert nose initially, then plastic bavarian smoked cheese. Quite a ful, rich, slightly oily texture. Possibly a (lower alc) Cali-Chard? After some discussion someone correctly places thisin Puligny and I guess the other wine of the pair as the 91 Sauzet Champ-Canet (knowing it's Paul's wine and that he bought a bottle of this from the same source as my oxidised one of last month). No idea about this vintage though other than it's younger. Doesn't say Puligny to me though. **1/2

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Flight 4 (2 Notes)

Flight 5 (2 Notes)

  • 2004 Château Gruaud Larose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Fresh, quite acidic, lovely nose. Slightly purplish, full deep colour. Very chewy and grippy still. Slight heat. Has potential. ***(*)

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  • 1997 Château Gruaud Larose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Slightly lighter, ruby to garnet. Slightly cheesy nose - epoisses/a touch of ammonia. Quite dry and indeed slightly grippy. Quite a mineral and slightly leafy character that puts me in St Estephe or possible the Graves. Mark P uses the slightly bretty nature to call it as Gruaud Larose. I'm surprised - lacks the cedarwood and slightly spicey blackcurrant that I usually get on St Julien, though with hindsight, the 04 isn't too far off being a youngerversion of the 96 tasted a couple of months ago. **1/2

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Flight 6 (2 Notes)

  • 1993 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Ncely meaty, slightly vegetal burgundy nose. Older of the pair. Somewhere in the Cote de Nuits I think. Good acidity. Nice weight and texture up front. Cean, fresh finish. Falls away a little, but good. **** Embarassingly when revealed it turns out I had a bottle of this last week - didn't recognise it though. This bottle was good, but not quite up to the level of last week. One of the better ones of this though.

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  • 2001 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Fuller and younger. Similar (albeit less pronounced) nose to the 98 Mortet Marsannay tasted a couple of days ago. This fades though after a few minutes. Younger and tighter than wine A. More meaty and animal. Slight rubber character coming through on the nose. ***

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Flight 7 (2 Notes)

Flight 8 (2 Notes)

  • 1955 Château Lanessan

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Clearly the older of the pair. Quite menthol on the nose. Italian acidity. Nose changing quite rapidly, creme caramel now. Early 1980s? Interesting, and I like this, but clearly fading. ***1/2

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  • 2000 Château Lanessan

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc

    Slightly minty, a little lift. A bit of acetone. Seems a bit raw and unbalanced. High acidity. Somewhere in Italy I think. Tuscan? **

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Flight 9 (2 Notes)

  • 1990 Château Magdelaine

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Both a good garnet colour and taste mature. This one sweet fruit on the atatck, then drying finish. Quite mellow and nuanced. Smooth and a sense of warmth to it - somewhere from the SW or Provence? I plump for Collioure. ***1/2

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  • 1996 Château Magdelaine

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Sweet attack, slightly minty. A little younger than A but also mature. Decent enough but lacking something. **1/2

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Flight 10 (2 Notes)

  • 2003 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    Hmm, the joys of blind tasting. after a good start with the first few wines it takes me a while to pick these as my own wines, and that's more a process of elimination as there are only two pairs left. Seem to have lost the typical Italian edge they exhibited upon opening and fleshed out and internationalised a little. Sweet, quite alcoholic with vanilla on the nose. a little hot. This gets better on further aeration, but its still a bit rich and international. Needs time. **(*)

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  • 1996 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

    Quite an oaky, modern nose. Better on palate. Reasonable acidity. The better of the pair tonight and indeed this is good albeit still a little international. ***

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Flight 11 (2 Notes)

Flight 12 (2 Notes)

Flight 13 (1 Note)

  • 1977 Graham Porto Vintage

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Quite light, fruity, slightly soapy nose. Nice sweetness on the attack, reasonable structure, no heat. Quite light, falls away a little bit but not at al bad. Very smooth. Certainly ready. ***1/2

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