Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2005 & 2006 Tasting
Hyatt, Century City
Tasted Saturday, January 24, 2009 by Badfish with 1,175 views
Introduction
As I was looking at the lineup for this tasting I assumed the Merlot heavy wines had the greatest chance to still be showing something so I tried to concentrate on the St. Émilion wines. There are quite a few wines from that appellation I purchased but was not able to taste yet so for me it was a win-win. With that said some of the 2005s seemed to be quite closed so I attempted to judge them on the balance in their structure (acidity, tannins, and concentration) and the degree of complexity I could ascertain. Evaluating the wines and taking notes at this event was obviously a daunting task so take from these what you will.
Flight 1 - St. Émilion (12 Notes)
Every wine I tried from this appellation was nothing short of spectacular. Granted I did try much more from here than any of the others but I find it hard to believe any other group of wines at the tasting could perform as good as these. The common theme I found with these wines is tremendous freshness flying in the face of deep concentration and firm tannins.
Flight 2 - Pessac-Léognan (7 Notes)
Like the St. Émilions this was a very solid group at the tasting. The whites were particularly moving as I loved seeing the vast differences between the wines, especially between vintages of the same producer.
Flight 3 - Margaux (4 Notes)
These wines all showed similar traits of elegance and complexity. I wish I had the chance to try more wines from this appellation including the 2005 Malescot St. Exupery and the 2005 Rausan Segla but sadly they ran out of wine by the time I got around to them.
Flight 4 - Pauillac (4 Notes)
This group was obviously one of the most backward of the tasting as expected. The 2005 Pauillacs are going to need a lot of time to come around but the better examples are going to be spectacular.
Flight 5 - Haut-Médoc (2 Notes)
I wish I had time to explore this and the other Medoc appellations further as I bet there are several values from both vintages.
Flight 6 - Pomerol (1 Note)
Pomerol is very underrepresented at this tasting but I wish I tasted a few more of the wines that were there including the 2006 Clinet and 2006 Gazin.
Flight 7 - St. Julien (1 Note)
I missed Léoville Poyferré and Gruaud Larose but I assume like the Branaire they were not giving up much at this stage.
Closing
This was a hectic, crowded, fast paced tasting but overall the experience was insightful and I am glad I did not miss this event. Although I missed several wines I wanted to try, the ones I did get to taste were profound across the board so I have to be pleased with that. The St. Émilions were easily the stars of the night for me and I am thrilled to own several of them. The Pessac whites were sort of an afterthought at the time but turned out to be some of the most memorable wines from the tasting. Many wines are closed or in the process of shutting down but I did not find them overly tannic. Maybe it was the wines I tried or my palate but none of them were brutal, harsh, or unforgiving. I am glad to have tasted a good chunk of the young 2005s and can't wait to revisit many of the wines in a decade or two.
2005 Château Angélus 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Explosive nose with plum, dark berry, spices, and oak. Quite perfumed with wonderful complexity. The palate is deeply concentrated with loads of dark fruit, firm but sweet tannins, and ample acidity. The finish is amazing with wonderful freshness and length. There is obviously a large amount of tannin and body but the fruit and acidity really support it well. A real wow wine that blows you away with power. 97+
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2005 Château Troplong Mondot 98 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This nose offers loads of gorgeous fruit character with notes of ripe berries, plums, cherries, herbs, mint, and floral undertones. For me the best nose of any of the reds I tasted, this had truly profound complexity. The palate yields explosive fresh dark fruit with hints of herbs combining with firm tannins and great acidity for nice balance even at this stage. The finish also shows tremendous persistence and character. This was stunning and was my wine of the tasting.
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2005 Château Pavie Macquin 96 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
There are quite lavish and seductive aromas from this wine including dark berries, currant, and brown sugar. The palate is dark and inky with flavors of blackberry and black cherry, showing gorgeous complexity and firm tannins. I feel this wine is able to do something quite unique in that it feels opulent and ripe but is able to maintain wonderful freshness and balance. 96+
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2005 Château La Gaffelière 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The nose on this wine comes across as pure earth and minerals, so powerful in fact that I was wondering if it was an off sample. With coaxing there is dark fruit underneath so I believe this is just one of the more terroir driven wines from St. Émilion. The palate opens up with tons of body and the flavors are more stone than fruit driven. The tannins are substantial but the terroir is quite obvious from the already complex flavors. With time if more of the fruit starts to present itself this will be a legend. 95+
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2005 Château Figeac 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Very attractive on the nose with fresh crushed cherry and berry fruit along with mineral tones. Restrained but seductively elegant on the palate with good fruit and firm tannins in a more traditional style. The fruit is more reserved with red berry character and mineral undertones. I think this is quite good because it is so attractive at such a young age but can obviously age.
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2005 Clos Fourtet 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This is another wine with a wonderfully complex nose; it reveals notes of earth, stones, dark berries, and licorice. The palate is loaded with perfumed fruit including flavors of licorice, berries, cherry, and cinnamon. This is also full bodied and very concentrated with an incredible lingering finish. Obviously needs time like most of these wines but it is already gorgeous with tremendous complexity.
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2005 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Quite reticent on the nose showing fresh crushed berry fruit. The palate is more expressive as it is loaded with dark berry fruit along with touches of oak and chocolate. The tannins are firm but sweet which combine with ample acidity for good structure. This wine is also very long on the finish with nice fruit character.
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2005 Château Larcis Ducasse 97 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Of the 2005s I had tasted before this event the Larcis Ducasse was near the top in terms of aromatic complexity, it did not disappoint here either. The nose on this wine is gorgeous and opulent with notes of black cherry, plum, herbs, and slate. Nearly as expressive on the palate this reveals flavors of fresh berries, currant, and herbs on the lingering finish. The tannins are firm and this is obviously quite structured but that combined with the complexity already present bode very well for the future of this wine.
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2005 Château Grand Mayne 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Very modern and forward on the nose with chocolate covered cherries, blackberry, and earth. The palate is very opulent and ripe with dark fruit flavors, lowish acidity, and sweet firm tannins. This wine was easily the most modern I tasted in my opinion as it came across like a young Napa Cabernet.
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2005 Château Canon 94 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
This, like the Figeac, is built in a more elegant traditional style but it shows slightly more character. The bouquet consists of raspberry liqueur supported by cool stones and good crispness. The palate is more forward but remains wonderfully fresh with ripe plum and berry flavors. There is also fantastic lift on the finish and great overall balance.
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2005 Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 95 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
The nose on this wine is like an explosion of crème de cassis but it also shows blackberry and crushed stones. Like most of the St. Émilions I tasted this wine seems to show uncanny freshness to support the ripe fruit flavors (currant and raspberry). The structure is very good with all the components well represented and the finish is very long with tremendous elegance.
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2006 Château Angélus 93 Points
France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Aromas of dark berries with a complex leafy tone. The palate is more restrained than the 2005 but shows good red berry and plum fruit along with hints of cinnamon, herbs, and oak. Quite seductive and elegant leading me to believe this wine will drink well young.
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