Linden's La Tache Tasting

A superbly well organised event at which I got my first experience of La Tache. The wines have a very distinctive character: a powerful marmite savoury flavour combined with brown sugar sweetness and it is the exquisite balancing of these elements that make the wines special.

I'm a bit worried that my marks look so much lower than those of other cellartrackers who've tasted these wines in the past. I would hate to give the impression that I was disappointed in these wines. They are quite different from any other burgundies I have had. The 2002 and the 1990 are probably the best burgs I've ever had, but I didn't find them a quantum leap ahead of the much less exalted red burgundies I drink fairly regularly.

• 2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Surprisingly brown even at this stage. Strong, direct, penetrating nose. At first not obviously fruity, though going back to the glass later, there had developed an extraordinarily vivid strawberry and roses scent – almost confected like a red opal fruit. Spicy, smoky oak, but in the background. Not big or flashy, but beautifully balanced with a long blueberry finish. Gorgeous.

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• 1997 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 89 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Brown red again. More volatile nose, a touch of nail varnish, less distinct. Savoury on the palate, not complex. Hot savoury finish. Not greatly impressed to start with, but after an hour or so, fruitier and sweeter.

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• 1996 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Darker, denser, very brown. Olives and undergrowth. Fresh on entry, plump, balanced. Not a pretty wine, and finished quite hot. But this too became more charming over the course of the evening.

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• 1995 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Darkest and reddest so far. Compact on the nose, but intense. Gamey, savoury, fresh, nice grip. More agile and cooler than the 1996 and I prefer it

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• 1990 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Darker and redder again. Elegant, restrained fragrance. Fresh yet rich, layer upon layer of savoury fruit, but sweet at the same time. Super balance.

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• 1986 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 87 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Pale and light bodied. Unclean on the nose, but underneath seemed OK. Cold tea, still fresh. Balanced. Not long. OK.

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• 1978 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Browning and light bodied. Intriguing, savoury, but in a subtle way. Lovely balance of caramel and brown sugar sweetness and gamey bite. Not that long.

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• 1971 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Corked. Underneath the taint, this showed the same nice balance of sweet and savoury.

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• 1976 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 88 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Brown, light bodied, healthy looking. Not much on the nose. Tangy, savoury, still some grip. Became fruitier in the glass

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• 1969 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  Pale and light. The nose took a while to develop, but when it did, was penetrating and marmitey. Once again gentle and a nice balance of savoury and sweet, elegantly lingering.

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• 1959 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, La Tâche Grand Cru

  After the previous five wines which were all brown and pale, this was a real surprise, darker, redder, remarkably youthful looking. Dusty on the nose, but obvious kinship with the ’69. Round, balanced, mellow.

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There are some superb, altogether more professional, notes on this tasting on the Squires board and wine-pages.