Various Vinous Venues, San Francisco
Tasted Saturday, March 14, 2009 by drwine2001 with 708 views
Entirely by chance, four different shops were featuring Burgundy today. That is a good thing, although the quality was not uniformly at a high level.
As always, Domaine Vocoret failed to impress, and Brocard never seems to get the best results despite excellent holdings. The Raveneau disappointed me, as it also had once previously.
An underwhelming trio from a producer who can do better
The first '07s I've tried, and an extremely unimpressive group at that. This new negociant has gotten some early good press in Burghound, but I certainly could not understand it based upon these wines, which showed little flavor and even less difference between wine of wildly varying appellations.
This was the pleasant surprise of the day-polished, fragrant Cote de Beaunes from a producer I'd never tried before. Bravo!
The good showing of the lower end '06s certainly makes me curious to try the big guns, but these are just ridiculously expensive.
2006 Domaine Vocoret et Fils Chablis
France, Burgundy, Chablis
Tropical fruit and wood. Rich, low acid wine. Not recognizable as Chablis.
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2006 Domaine Vocoret et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Mostly toasty oak on the nose. Rich and round, good texture, fairly dry but absolutely no sense of minerality and invisible acidity.
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2007 Jean-Marc Brocard Petit Chablis
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Petit Chablis
Rich entry with lemony finish. OK.
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2007 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Vieilles Vignes
France, Burgundy, Chablis
More obvious wood than the Petit Chablis, otherwise similar with lemon peel at the end.
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2007 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Greenish tint. More typical Chablis nose than the lesser wines with oyster shell. More weight with good texture and medium intensity. A clear step up but by no means is it a great Premier Cru.
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2007 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Restrained nose. Dry, powdery, grapefruit zest finish. Very good but not distinguished for this great site. More at the level of a strong Premier Cru Chablis.
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2006 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
Full yellow color. Curiously ripe, peachy nose. Full and rich, although it finishes with drier, soil notes. Maybe it was because I tasted this immediately after the bottle was opened, but this was way too rich and lacked Chablis character and structure. This time around, it brought back disturbing memories of the '03 Montee de Tonnerre; I hope it turns out better than that.
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