Chevillon Dinner, 1990-2002

This was a tremendous opportunity to taste a range of bottlings and vintages from this iconic Nuits producer. For me, the wines fell into a nice bell shaped curve, with 2 standouts at both the high and low ends (leaving aside the tragically corked bottle of Cailles), and a bunch of wines in the middle. Many thanks to everyone for contributing a wonderful mix of bottles to this event. I have noted the wines in the order in which they were poured and apologize for their somewhat sketchy nature.

• 2006 Arnaud Ente Bourgogne Blanc

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

  A bit too much sulfur and toasty wood. Good volume for a straight Bourgogne, though.

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• 2005 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  This may be the first Butteaux I've had that is not from Raveneau. Very good Chablis with an excellent combination of sweetness that is not overdone and some underpinning of salt and oyster shell. Medium weight and medium intensity.

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• 2002 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  Fresh, medium weight and restrained with a hint of nuts and spice. Seemed to lack some drive and concentration, especially in the mid-palate.

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• 1998 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  We began the red portion of the evening with this wine, which was big and bold compared to the Chevillons that followed. This showed more backward and rustic than the last time, with a strong blast of brett quickly dominating things. Drinkable but not very good.

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• 1999 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Despite its '99 firmness and no lack of size, this immediately showed off the more polished Chevillon style compared to Gouges. Intriguing blend of black fruit and real stoniness. Too young but very promising and amongst the top 3 or 4 wines of the night, no small feat since it was lined up against more highly touted vineyards.

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• 1999 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Badly and irreparably corked.

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• 2000 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Paler color, some initial sweetness to the aromas rapidly turned floral and vegetal-chaptalized? Soft, completely resolved, and unfocused on the palate. Its superficial charm does not hide the fact that this is going nowhere but downhill.

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• 1996 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Fairly deep and youthful. Full, stern, and rippling with the acidity of the vintage. Not an enjoyable drink right now, that's for sure. Potential? I don't know about the balance here.

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• 1996 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  I would describe the '96 Les St. Georges in pretty much the same terms as the Vaucrains, except that it had a little less density which made it seem less oppressively solid. Once again, the acidity is integrated into the wine but still pretty punishing.

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• 1990 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Rich and ripe. Not bad in its own right, but compared to the '93 served next to it, you realized how soupy this is.

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• 1990 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Similar color as the '90 Vaucrains. As with the pair of '96s, this was a tad less blockish than the Vaucrains, which made the texture more pleasing. Still pretty big and ripe, but seems less over the top than its vintage mate.

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• 1993 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Most mature looking wine of the bunch. Here's the nose that jumped out of the glass and seduced most of the people at the table. Irresistibly complex Burgundy aromas, silky fruit with perfect balancing acidity, and some tannins still left to fade away. Gorgeous, complete example that is positively feminine in the context of the rest of these wines. My hands down favorite.

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• 1998 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Hard and tannic with some of the same artificial sweetness that the 2000 Pruliers possessed. The best thing I can say about it was that it was not corked like so many of the '98 Chevillons. Not good, no charm whatsoever.

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• 1999 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  Very much in the '99 style-firm if not hard, large scaled, and way too young now. Although the two '99s were not tasted side by side, this is almost certainly a step up in concentration from the Perrieres, but tonight, the "lesser" vineyard was showing more complexity.

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• 2002 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  As with many other recent '99 versus '02 comparisons, this was showing sweeter, lighter, and much more open than its older compatriot. Superb acidity and some tannins. Absolutely lovely wine which should be very seductive 5 to 10 years down the road. After the extraordinary '93 Cailles, this was my second favorite wine.

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• 1983 Château Bastor-Lamontagne

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Medium amber color. Good minor Sauternes without distinguishing or memorable features. Dilute in the middle and without grip.

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A couple of thoughts:
1. I have not had Les St. Georges for quite some time so it was great to have the chance to go through 5 vintages of this wine. The 2 vintages where it was paired with the Vaucrains really showed a sleeker, finer side to this cru compared to that big boy.
2. The 1993 wines from multiple producers just keep on blossoming, continuing to go from strength to strength.
3. As with many '02s I've had recently, even this top of the line Chevillon showed surprising approachability.

Needless to say, an enlightening evening.