| | Third edition of the infamous WGW! Friday - Dinner Menu:
Home-cured duck prosciutto, Quebec charcuterie and cheeses
Shrimp and scallops in Vidal icewine/grainy mustard sauce
Braised Waygu short ribs, sauted rapini, celery root mash
Dark chocolate souffle - 1996 J. Moreau & Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (9/11/2009)
Honey gold colour. Aromas of apple, butterscotch, beeswax/lanolin. Medium-bodied with apple and lanolin replays and decent minerality. Moderate finish, ~30-35s. A little past its prime but still enjoyable. Drink now. (90 pts.)
- 1998 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Conca - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (9/11/2009)
Medium-ruby colour. Aromas of Big Chew bubble gum, tar, leather, spice, dried cherries, prunes, sandalwood, with hints of roses/potpourri, black tea and a bit of truffle after some air. Intoxicating nose. Medium-full bodied, spicy, with tar, dried cherries, porcini, sandalwood, and dried orange peel notes on the palate. Moderate-long finish, ~40s, with more tar, leather, dried orange peel, roses, and just a hint of mint at the end. With additional cellaring I think the palate will catch up to the nose a little and have a chance to notch up another point or maybe two. Really enjoyable stuff. Drink now with a short decant or through 2018. (92 pts.)
- 2003 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Château d'Ampuis - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie (9/11/2009)
Dark burguny/purple colour; opaque. Shows massive, slow legs on the glass. Huge, grapey nose with some barnyard/funk that blows off over time. Peach, blackcurrant, soy, and roasted meat aromas with vigorous swirling. Full-bodied, rich, with good acidity showing stewed fruit, peach, and blackberry notes. Moderate-length finish, ~30-35s, with more blackberry and peach notes. Quite an odd wine. I don't think I would ever pick this out as a Rhone wine if served blind; more likely to think Aussie due to its fruit-bomb nature. I was expecting significantly more, but maybe this will improve with age. Disappointing. (90 pts.)
- 1975 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único - Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero (9/11/2009)
From magnum; not decanted. Light-medium burgundy colour. Interesting, complex nose with smoke/hickory sticks, prune, tea, leather, dried cherries, and just a hint of tomato stem that was not unpleasant. Medium-bodied, nicely resolved tannins. Tomato stem, leather, earth, dried cherry and more on a layered, well-balanced, elegant palate presence. Long finish, ~40-45+s with leather, dried cherries. This was dynamite! Interesting in that it showed some characteristics of an Italian wine (bright acidity from Sangiovese) and others from Burgundy with the layers of dried fruit and earth. Very well done and was rock solid the next day also. (96 pts.)
- 2006 Aubert Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (9/11/2009)
Medium-gold colour. Huge nose of baking spices, honey, nectarine, vanilla bean, persimmon, orange peel, saltwater taffy, and honeydew melon. Full-bodied, rich, unctuous, but with fabulous acidity to balance it out. Peach, mineral, lanolin, honey, spice, white flowers, white pepper, and ginger on the palate through to the long, long 45-50s finish that showed more persimmon, orange peel, and baking spice notes. Excellent stuff! (94 pts.)
- 1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (9/11/2009)
Almost opaque ruby/black colour. Aromas of tobacco, salt, black olive tapenade, black plums, spice, tar, and a hint of alcohol. Full-bodied, very smoky (woodsmoke/liquid smoke), with tobacco, licorice, tar, and prune notes. Amazing acidity to lift the wine off your palate. Long finish, ~50-60s with woodsmoke, tar, and prune notes. Amazing stuff! Not too far off the bottle I tasted a few years ago. 98 points easily, maaaaaybe eking out to a 99. Just behind the surreal 1990 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle it was paired with. (98 pts.)
- 1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage (9/11/2009)
Opaque, purple/black colour. Brooding nose of celery root, vanilla, sweet black fruit, black olive tapenade, and hints of peach, cassis, and hot stones. Full-bodied, very refined and complex showing notes of peach, cassis, capsicum, celery root, black olive tapenade, and crushed black berry fruits. Long finish, with more celery root and cassis notes joined by just a touch of white pepper. Absolutely majestic! This wine has a long, long life ahead of it and I hope I get the chance to try it again. WOTW and probably my WOTY so far. (99 pts.)
- 1989 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (9/11/2009)
Medium-ruby colour. Classic Medoc aromas of cedar, pencil lead, cigar box, and leather joined by notes of wet leaves, potpourri, and spice. Medium-full bodied, delicious, silky in texture with notes of wet leaves, cigar, and cedar. Long finish, ~40-45s, with delicate fruit, leather, sandalwood, and cigar box. Outstanding and a real treat to enjoy. This wine can go for many, many more years but is drinking well now. (97 pts.)
- 1989 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (9/11/2009)
Almost opaque ruby/burgundy colour. Cool, pretty nose of cedar, blackberry, and a bit of ash. Medium-bodied and elegant showing nice texture. Graphite, blackcurrant, dried black cherries. Moderate-long finish, ~40s, with nice fruit. Very refined. Beautiful stuff! (96 pts.)
- 1995 Beringer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley (9/11/2009)
Dark ruby/purple colour; almost opaque. Aromas of vanilla, spice, alcohol, blackberry, and a melange of fresh herbs. Full-bodied, great acidity and balance with vanilla and blackberry/cassis replays. Great length. Consistently one of the most enjoyable California Cabs I come across. (95 pts.)
- 2002 Vérité La Joie - USA, California, Sonoma County (9/11/2009)
Opaque purple/black colour. Aromas of vanilla, chocolate, cassis, and black licorice. Full-bodied, spicy, with vanilla, blackberry, and alcohol notes. Moderate-length finish, ~30s, with cassis and vanilla. Very nice, but unfortunately a step or two behind the phenomenal wines that preceded it - including 1989 Chave Hermitage and 1990 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle. (92 pts.)
- 1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Recioto della Valpolicella - Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Recioto della Valpolicella (9/11/2009)
The third time I've been fortunate enough to try this wine. Always in the 93-94 point range, it was at the upper end of that scale tonight. Chocolate covered cherries, Glosette raisins, and fruitcake/Christmas spices from the nose through to the very long finish. Everything is in balance and the sweetness is just enough to be the perfect pairing with a 70% cacao-based chocolate souffle. Consistently phenomenal stuff. (94 pts.)
Saturday - Lunch Menu:
Vitello tonato
Roasted peppers
Baugna cauda
Home-cured and -smoked pastrami sandwiches with homemade pickles - 2005 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (9/12/2009)
Opaque purple colour. Aromas of blackberry, cocoa (odd since there is no barrique at all in the winery), black cherry and licorice. Medium-full bodied, beautiful acidity that is almost crunchy, showing peach, blackberry, and sliced black plum notes. Moderate-long finish, ~40s, with dark fruit. Awesome stuff! Amazing match with vitello tonnato and bagna cauda. Cellar more to allow for tertiary notes to develop. Drink over the next 5-8 years. (92 pts.)
- 2005 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Conca Tre Pile - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d'Alba (9/12/2009)
Red fruit - sour cherry and plums in particular on the nose and palate. Medium bodied with decent length. A good Barbera but not outstanding. It was seriously outclassed by a stunning bottle of 2005 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d'Alba Cascina Francia. I love the wines from Aldo Conterno, but the $45CAD sticker price on their Barbera is tough to stomach. (88 pts.)
Saturday - Dinner Menu:
Foie gras torchon with onion confit and toasted Jules brioche
Grilled veal chops with red wine/veal demi-glace sauce, grilled zucchini and red peppers, potatoes with thyme roasted in duck fat
Plum-almond cake - 1985 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (9/12/2009)
Medium-dark gold colour. Aromas of sherry, oatmeal cookie, and apple chips. Very fine bead with few bubbles in the stream. Good mouthfeel however. Medium-bodied, with sherry and caramel notes joined by just a hint of coffee. Moderate finish, ~30s, with lemon and apple.
Initially this was in the 92-point range. Over the course of the next four hours that the wine sat in the glass, it developed significantly more complex aromas and flavours and turned richer on the palate. With air and an increase in temperature, the wine morphed into a very classy, powerful Champagne worthy of a solid 95 point score. Wonderful stuff! (95 pts.)
- 2006 Delas Frères Condrieu Clos Boucher - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu (9/12/2009)
Light-medium gold colour. Pretty, very aromatic nose of freshly grated ginger, lanolin, Ataulfo mango, white flowers, pie crust, baked apple pie and notes of blood orange and marmalade as the wine warms. Full-bodied, rich, with good minerality and acidity. While the nose would make one expect an off-dry/sweet wine, it's completely dry on the palate showing Ataulfo mango, ginger, and baked apple pie replays joined by just a hint of lemon curd. Moderate-long finish, ~40s, with lemon curd, ginger, and mineral notes. An outstanding bottle of Condrieu and one I wish I had in my cellar! (95 pts.)
- 1994 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan (9/12/2009)
Medium-dark ruby colour. Delicate, Pessac nose of cedar, dried cherry, currant, and leather. Medium-bodied, resolved tannins, with cedar, sandalwood, worn saddle leather, and prune notes on the palate. Short-moderate finish, ~20s, with sandalwood and spice notes. Not an overly complex First Growth, but considering it was an off vintage, the wine was drinking really nicely. Drink now. (90 pts.)
- 2001 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes (9/12/2009)
From 375mL. Medium-gold colour. Aromas of vanilla custard, mango, peach, foie gras, botrytis, orange peel, and passionfruit. Full-bodied, unctuous, but quite cloying due to a lack of acidity. Spice, pineapple. botrytis, and honey notes through to a ~40s finish. I was expecting significantly more from this wine and may be a point too generous with its 90 point score. (90 pts.)
- 2001 Alois Kracher Chardonnay/Welschriesling Grande Cuvée TBA #6 Nouvelle Vague - Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee (9/12/2009)
Amber/orange colour. Aromas of baking spices, orange peel, peach, persimmon, and apricot. Full-bodied, quite spicy, with botrytis, persimmon, honey, apricot, and white flower notes on the palate. Long finish, ~50-60s, with more orange peel, persimmon, and peach notes. Excellent, and a gorgeous match with foie gras torchon. (93 pts.)
- 1997 Lisini Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino (9/12/2009)
Not decanted. Poured into shoulder and slow ox'd for four hours. On opening, huge, brooding, intense, and intoxicating aromas of sottobosco, baking spices, and aniseed burst from the bottle. With air, hints of truffle, leather, and frutto di bosco emerged. Full-bodied, the wine has a gorgeous texture and shows replays of sottobosco, truffle and baking spice replays as well as some dried cherry notes. A hint of smokiness and slight alcoholic warmth on the very long, ~50s finish. Absolutely stunning but it is clearly still a very young wine. This wine has a very long life ahead of it. I will hold my remaining bottles for at least another five years and drink before 2020. (94 pts.)
- 1986 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9/12/2009)
Dark ruby colour. Aromas of truffle, leather, aniseed, prune, balsamico, sottobosco, black licorice, tar, and roses. Medium-full bodied with excellent texture and balance. Replays from nose right through to the long, ~40-45s finish. Really lovely! (93 pts.)
- 1996 Dante Rivetti Barbaresco Bricco de Neueis Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco (9/12/2009)
Dark ruby colour; almost opaque. Decent Nebbiolo notes on the nose. On the medium-full bodied palate, it was slightly too acidic and a little out of balance showing soy, tea, and balsamico notes. Very disappointing from a qualitative perspective in comparison to numerous bottles of 1988, 1989, and 1990 from this producer. (88 pts.)
- 2004 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/12/2009)
Tons of kirsch, framboise, and alcohol. Really not enjoying the super-ripe style. Almost candied in its fruit profile. I would really like to try a Clos des Papes with age to see if this comes into check and shows more classic notes with time. Right now, the overripe fruit and alcohol is not particularly appealing or enjoyable. NR.
Follow-up: A friend took the leftovers home (just corked up, not vacu-vinned) and two days later while still hot from the alcohol, it showed more classic notes that included garrigue and grilled meat and some of the kirsch notes fell to the back. Perhaps there's hope for this wine with additional cellaring!
- 2001 Domaine Grand Veneur Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Origines - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (9/12/2009)
Showed better than the 2004 Clos des Papes on this night. Black fruit, spice, and in-check alcohol. Full-bodied with decent complexity and length. Don't really think this will improve with further cellaring but there is no rush to drink. Drink now to 2014.
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