Marine Room Leoville Las Cases Vertical Dinner
Marine Room Restaurant, La Jolla, CA
Tasted Saturday, November 7, 2009 by La Cave d'Argent with 1,492 views
Introduction
It had been several years since we assessed the wines of this great chateau in vertical format. What better place to hold such an event than the Marine Room in La Jolla, overlooking the beautiful Pacific Ocean (www.marineroom.com)? The dishes were carefully crafted by Executive Chef Bernard Guillas and Chef de Cuisine Ron Oliver. The wines were handled by sommeliers Jeff Hoover and Lisa Redwine with impeccable precision. Jeff Hoover, in collaboration with the chefs, was largely responsible for choreographing the wine and food pairings. The food and service were (in every respect) stunningly perfect.
All wines were tasted unblinded in flights as noted below.
Flight 1 - Maine Lobster Bisque Cappuccino (Agrumes Foam, Fennel Pollen Dust) (1 Note)
Served in cylindrical shooter glasses, the pairing of this dish with the Renaudin was a match made in heaven. Of note is that Chefs Guillas and Oliver substituted the agrumes foam for the yuzu foam (found on the regular menu) to better complement the rose Champagne.
Flight 2 - Virginia Bobwhite Quail Galantine (Mission Fig Compote, Watercress, Rose Fingerlings, Carob Vincotto Dressing) (2 Notes)
This was an intensely flavorful yet elegant dish which paired extremely well with the Corton-Charlemagne. The Bâtard-Montrachet required significant additional aeration time to fully strut its stuff and, for the most part, was not really consumed with this dish.
Flight 3 - Colorado Free Range Veal Tenderloin (Fleur de Sel, Apple Fritter, Truffle Corn Cake, White Asparagus, Oyster Mushrooms, Elysium Black Muscat) (6 Notes)
An absolutely beautiful dish to view (gorgeous medallions atop the fritter, with beautiful surrounding color), even more beautiful to eat! The delicate nature of the veal nicely complemented the more delicate nature of these older vintages.
Flight 4 - Black Angus Center Cut Petite Filet Mignon (Tartufo Potato Timbale, Porcini Butter, Asparagus, Malbec Talamanca Pepper Sauce) (6 Notes)
Another beautiful presentation, this generous-sized tender filet provided ample bites for pairing with the younger Leoville vintages. While flavorful on its own, the steak did not dominate the wines and the beef/Bordeaux match was "classic" in every sense of the word. It should be noted that the 1990 Leoville was not included, as the diner who was to have brought the wine fell ill and could not attend.
Flight 5 - Chocolate Study (Callebaut Chocolate Tart, Gianduja Hazelnut Crunch, Acai Cacao Nibs Gelato) (1 Note)
A three-piece work of art on a plate. Each chocolate rendition was decadently delicious and paired beautifully with the Port.
Closing
In summary, this was an evening not soon to be forgotten. I cannot say enough for the talent and professionalism of the Marine Room staff. A collection of nice wines was transformed into a wonderful wine and food "event." Kudos to all who were involved in creating the memory!
1986 Renaudin Champagne L'Espiégle Brut Rosé 93 Points
France, Champagne
Consumed from magnum. This Champagne shows a beautiful medium salmon color and sports an amazingly active tiny bead, especially considering its age. The nose is immediate and quite intense, with aromas of roses, cardamom, raspberries and a hint of coriander. Medium-bodied on the palate, with refreshing acidity and flavors in line with the nose. Long, crisp finish. Outstanding and amazingly youthful from magnum. In this format, a well-cellared bottle should drink nicely for at least another 4-5 years. Drink now-12/14.
Post a Comment / Do you find this review helpful? Yes - No / Report Issue