Cabernet Comparison

An opportunity to compare 5 outstanding wines to explore the different expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon from terroir suited to this noble grape. Ranging from 35% Cabernet Sauvignon to 100%, the wines ranged from 5 to 9 years old, including 3 Left Bank, 1 Right Bank, and 1 from the USA. All wines were decanted for at least 30 minutes, and sampled over two hours. Most were young and strong enough to last over night. Given the variations in blends, origins, vintages, and to a small extent even bottle size (3 are 375ml), the expectation is that each wine will show a unique character, typical of its appellation.

We also could not resist the option of grilling a few steaks to judge pairings with filet, strip and rib-eye. When you're both hungry and thirsty, this is a good idea!

• 2004 Château Pontet-Canet 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Bought on release. Decanted 1.5 hours, which proved not nearly enough. Inky blue, dark rim. Textbook Pauillac aromas, dark fruit, leather, lead pencil. Somewhat shut down at this time, showing a hair under-ripe with a bell pepper tang just above the dark fruit. Young. Tannic. Long. Reserved power, closed without lots of air, but better to simply wait it out. 2013+
  Update: a week later, under vaccu-vin in the fridge, this wine opens and shows more power, concentration, extraction and intensity. A slow maturity with a wide plateau, it seems as though it will drink at its best in 2014+ and roll for a couple of decades. Great value in Pauillac for classified growth wine. Upgraded from 91 to 92.

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• 2004 Château Léoville Las Cases 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

  Bought on release. Decanted 1 hour, small bottle. Dark blue, red rim. A textbook St Julien -- an elegant and rich combination of floral, leather, mineral and blackberry on the nose, confirmed on the palate with silky smooth length. A grippy finish shows it is still quite young, as expected. Try full bottles after 2014, a classic Las Cases.

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• 2004 Château Brane-Cantenac 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

  From small bottle, bought on release. Decanted about 45 minutes. On point. Aromatically exactly typical for Margaux appellation, with the added fragrant dimension that Brane invariably offers. The 2nd lightest in color, but still dark shades. Medium bodied, tangy, with a soft round finish, nice lift. Let's see whether it puts on more weight in 2 years.

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• 2000 Château Figeac 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

  Retail purchase about 1.5 years ago. Decanted 45 minutes. Dark blue, slightly watery rim. Pepper and mint, forest and earth. Young and taut. Brambly and austere. Less fruit, more concentration. Quite distinct in the line-up of other Cabernet-based wines (granted this is 35% Cab Sauv, 35% Cab Franc 30% Merlot). The over-riding pepper nose and taste is a surprise. Very long, lingers and the pepper dissipates. Second day is a little mellower, but still concentrated. 2012-2028
  
  I prefer the magnificent 2001 to this bottle at this point. Let's see again in a few years.

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• 2003 L'Ecole No. 41 Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 87 Points

  USA, Washington, Columbia Valley

  Retail bottle, held since release. Warm red nose, wood and vanilla. Red fruit, tangy and tarry. Medium bodied, and in the company of the 4 Bordeaux wines from this side-by-side, a little sweet and lacking in complexity. This is one of my favorite wineries in WA for Cabernet, but other vintages and in particular Walla Walla bottles have shown better, even in Bordeaux.

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Two summary notes:
- The Left Bank 2004's are years from peaking. Aromatically they are distinct - and true to their appellations -- if a little subdued vs previous tastings, and showed the unique aspects of their points of origin. On the palate, however, they have yet to develop even a substantial fraction of their full potential. Bordeaux wines from this vintage are slow to mature. The fruit quality is not overwhelming, nor comparable to the 2005 (or the forthcoming 2009's). But the classicism is there, as is the wine making, and so is the value. I like this vintage very much, but will not be in a hurry to re-taste.
- The steaks confirmed a generalization: the fattier the meat, the leaner the wine. The Rib-eye was best with the more austere and peppery Figeac, which cut through the grilled, salted savory eye. The leaner strip and filet both matched well with the heft and relative richness of the St Julien. The Pauillac was just not developed enough, and was generally neither good nor bad with any of the cuts. I would like to try the Margaux with lamb, and the Washington Cab with a smoked pork loin.