Arthritis Foundation Connoiseurs' Room

Pfister Hotel, Milwaukee
Tasted Friday, February 19, 2010 by nzinkgraf with 476 views

Flight 1 - Donnhoff and 'orange' wine. (6 Notes)

really a great way to start the day. all of these wine cementing thoughts in my mind about the exceptional nature of each producer. the 2000 d'yquem finally did for me what d'yquem has not previously. the donnhoff was just there to sip on while we went through and opened the wines. 50 or so. while the zind-humbrecht didn't fare best in the field, it was absolutely fantastic and a breath of life for the producer in my world. gravner and joly will be wines that i continue to search out for my cellar.

  • 2006 Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel

    Germany, Nahe

    From 375. Intensity of aromatics. Sweet diesel off the nose. Palate is so delicious floral and impressive sweetgrass in the background. Fabulous balance with the prettiest acid. Richness of fruit behind the sweet.

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  • 2002 Gravner Ribolla Gialla Anfora Venezia Giulia IGT

    Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT

    Again, something in the nose makes me think of more mineral driven merlot, while at the same time soapy florals off the nose at pop and pour. golden color hints lightly at caramel and orange. golden sunshines. palate shows toasted fennel seed. An Indian kitchen's pan of tempering spices leaving a lingering sensation on the finish.

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  • 2005 Nicolas Joly Clos de la Coulée de Serrant

    France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières-Coulée de Serrant

    at pop and pour showing a really intense note that makes me think of thee chlorinous air of a YMCA swimming pool. baking apple all over the nose and a subdued suggestion of botrytis. lightly honied in the nose, but really showing that swimming pool note. one chap noted that this wine 'tastes like bones.' that sounds utterly delicious. such a textural endeavor with almond lasting on the finish.

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  • 2000 F.X. Pichler Riesling Smaragd Loibner Berg

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau

    yellow straw color. nose shows intensity and dry botrytis. light express of wax in the nose and penetrating incense type florals. light seaside-ish note on the palate of seashell and flowers with nectarine fruit. M/M+acid. beauty.

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  • 1998 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain Sélection de Grains Nobles

    France, Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru

    speaking of orange wines...copper color. tangerine fruit in the nose and orange pith liquer. ben calls 300g/l of sugar. again a green sweetgrass in the nose. not the most complex nose in this flight. M- acid, with pleasant balance albeit a bit cloying for my taste.

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  • 2000 Château d'Yquem

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    golden with an orange glimmer of sunlight. beautiful orange citrus nose. noted that this is not a great vintage. yet this wine finally cleared the table. so pretty. orange citrus and bright fall leaves. the softest pillow. light coconut in the nose. yes, finally this is it.

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Flight 2 - clean slate (2 Notes)

take one step back, followed by two steps forward.

  • 2008 La Scolca Gavi

    Italy, Piedmont, Gavi

    from magnum. lime leaf all over the nose and for sure, some skunk, but in the end it really just becomes part of an aromatic white pepper expression. but the skunkiness is properly tucked in there. ben suggests palate tannin. i also see this wrapped in the white pepper. for that alone, my thoughts go towards some recent savoie wines of the jacquere grape. JP&JF Quenard, Le cellier du Palais Apremont. Very mineral driven in the nose. Gypsum like. Attack on the palate with such mineral and floral driven refreshment. and the gallery detects some peach fruit up in there.

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  • 1999 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons

    France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne Grand Cru

    splits the difference, waffles between the brown leesy side and that more elegant sugar cookie. seasidey all the way. salty air. palate shows crystalline sweet dough and bright violet flower with a knock out backside.

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Flight 3 - My Austrian ex-wife made me do it (3 Notes)

that is put the carnuntum in the pinot flight.

  • 2007 Folk Machine Pinot Noir Factories & Smoke

    USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County

    lightly cloudy with strawberry clarity of color. nose of wild strawberry. a dark ethereal and integrating oak component and some lead pencil. great aromatics with a green forest backdrop. hint of barn in the nose. ben calls out the medicinal side of my forest. way out on the finish there are thoughts of banana and and hints of carbonic maceration.

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  • 2006 Muhr-van der Niepoort Blaufränkisch

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Carnuntum

    tight structure out the gate. that roasty blaufrankish band-aid thing on the nose. gunflint and red to black fruit. definitely not dominated by fruit. palate really gets at the lively acid and the pronounced mineral component of this wine. as it opens up the palate starts to show and herbal and dry liquorice expression. mmm.

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  • 2006 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Knox Alexander

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley

    the nose seems a bit hollow. black cherry color and simple raspberry fruit on the nose. M+ acid, flashing some definite youth, but right now it just seems so one dimensional. I'm not sure what's going to emerge out of this.

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Flight 4 - Spain and Montalcino (6 Notes)

after the fact, the poggio antico just made itself look bad by putting itself in this flight.

  • 2002 Clos Erasmus Priorat

    Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

    it is noted that 2002 is an early drinking clos erasmus. such bright dark cherry in the nose. bright kool-aid and band-aid. very intense aromatics, not quite becoming too medicinal. M++ acid still flexing its muscle. built like barolo. M+ body. after having had laurel a few times, i would have seen this going to much deeper in its fruit profile. maybe that's just a signifier of the vintage? must explore more. very enjoyable. more my style than the laurel.
    after 3 hours open...nose is getting really inky. rich velvety fruit. hints a deeper prune fruit. really chocolate, cherry, and herb. fantastic.

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  • 1995 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Valbuena 5°

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    i was not expecting much given previous notes on this wine. in the end, i found this wine marvelous for reasons other found it horrendous.
    youthful cherry fruit all over the nose. hinting at some light corkiness perhaps, but really in the end so subtle and wrapped in others complexity. very aged forest floor. old growth forest. wide oranging to the rim that seems pretty consistent with 15 years of age. spearmint all in the nose. this is not a 'pants on the floor' wine. the nose shows an elegant expression, but then the palate is rocked with an intense acidity, that is actually very pleasing in the context of this wine. the decent of cedar over the years shows on the palate. the acid is the salt here and makes for an explosive palate without being monsterous. iron, high acid, and a bright meatiness with an herbal underbelly. long long finish. drink now to 2014.

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  • 2003 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    tight dark red fruits in the nose. light barn and some pond water. rich aromatics. ben calls out some cocoa. palate really stretches its arms. big structure and it almost goes to cola-town. too bad the 1995 valbuena came first.

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  • 2003 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino Altero

    Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

    vs the basic 03 brunello, this shows quite a bit brighter fruit on the nose. more going on here, but still just a little too boring in this field of wines.

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  • 2005 Viñas de la Vega Quinta Sardonia

    Spain, Castilla y León, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León

    nose of bright grilled meats. quite a clove driven spice box. richness slathered on richness. just a beast that's ready to go the long haul.

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  • 2004 Bodegas El Chantre Málaga Ramos-Paul

    Spain, Andalucía, Málaga

    Striking two rocks together. Nose suggests a hard minerality. Dark red fruit abyss in the distance. Soft green note. Admittedly a sulfur whiff in the nose. Ben calls out the meaty tempranillo. So pronouned on the nose.
    Palate is nice black liquorice, but tannin is high. Too high for pleasurable drinking now. Interesting drink that needs more time to flush itself out.

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Flight 5 - Napa Cab!!! (4 Notes)

  • 2005 Bryant Family Vineyard DB4

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    a little purple in the rim. very buttery in the nose, but still flashing nice gravel mineral notes. palate is not so offensive. tannin butter if there was such a thing. so youthful in structure.

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  • 2006 Oakville East Cabernet Sauvignon Exposure

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    after that 2005 DB4, this wine takes things to the next level of butter. big grillin notes in the nose. purple hue again, and not opaque. more solidly fruited right now than the 2005 DB4.

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  • 2005 Elyse Cabernet Sauvignon Tietjen Vineyard

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    Very high toned black fruit and mineral driven nose. Bright fruited palate with terrific mineral textural features across the palate. Integrating green becoming earthy on the nose. Floral pep up front on the palate. Lovely solid structure, yet drinking quite nicely now.

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  • 2003 Corison Cabernet Sauvignon

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    more of an herbal cherry reflection on the nose. chocolate mint and lighter in body than the 2005 DB4 or the 2006 Oakville East. lively acid and a very pleasant contrast.

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Flight 6 - Barolo (2 Notes)

Flight 7 - Rhone (2 Notes)

Flight 8 - Zin and Petite (5 Notes)

also tasted along side:1979 Foppiano Petite Sirah Estate Bottled, 1981 Hop Kiln Petite Sirah M. Griffin Vineyards, 1979 Sotoyome Petie Sirah, 1978 Trentadue Winery Petite Sirah.
No formal notes aside from Trentadue quite over the hill, but still engaged enough for a tasting. Foppiano next in line has passed it's prime, but a little more recently than the Trentadue. Both the Sotoyome and Hop Kiln were just over the crest, but for Petite, I'd say that was 5 or 7 years ago that they were still in their prime. For those two wines, I'd suggest 24 years from vintage date to be consumed.

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