Colonel Lawrence
Posts: 2093
Joined: 4/24/2006
From: Arabia
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You flatter me, I am afraid my expertise, such as it is, is in researching, collecting and then subsidising my drinking by selling some of my appreciating assets.
I can share my knowledge though.
You've chosen an ideal candidate for your vertical - I assume you've seen the film Mondovino?
The controversy began around the time of the 2000 vintage which recieved sound reviews, but received these comments from respected UK wine critic Michael Broadbent:
"Virtually opaque; rich, brambly fruit, distinct vanillin as it opened up""Rich, chocolatey, a touch of coarseness on the palate, plenty of new oak"
"A Michel Rolland- inspired renaissance.
Is it still Margaux though?"
He gave it 4/5 stars which is good, but the sting was in the tail (my highlighting), although it seems a fair question.
Let me jump ahead to the 2005 vintage which had these comments reported from the Chateau:
Probably the last Rolland assisted Kirwan as he 'resigns' from a number of Bordeaux consultancies.
Nathalie Schÿler, general manager of Kirwan confirmed Rolland had left and that 2005 would be his last vintage. Winemaking would continue under his protégé Athanase Fakorellis, who 'follows the same winemaking philosophy'.
She also said that any suggestion that consultant Stephane Derenoncourt would be taking over from Rolland at the third-growth Margaux chateau was entirely false. La Revue du Vin de France was 'misleading' in mentioning Derenoncourt's name in association with Kirwan, she said.
Rolland's leaving Kirwan is the subject of intense interest, not least because in 2004, in the polemic film Mondovino, veteran critic Michael Broadbent criticised the wine for tasting more like a Merlot-dominated Pomerol than a Margaux under Rolland's stewardship.
Schÿler said that she had no criticism of Rolland's style, and that he is 'a great friend who has taught us much in winemaking', but she hinted that his departure would be an opportunity to bring the wine back to a style that was more recognisably Margaux.
'We feel that we have a great Margaux terroir and that the wine needs to be identified as a high quality Margaux.'
So the stage is set - we have the "traditionalists" claiming that Rolland et.al. are destroying the essence of the wine by concocting (essentially) wines that R.Parker and others will score highly.
As if to illustrate the point this is Parker on or around the 2005 vintage:
Kudos to Sophie Schyler, the charming proprietress who gave such a graceful performance while under attack in the disingenuous movie Mondovino
The greatest Kirwan made since some of the estate’s historic offerings of the mid-1800s (how does he know this stuff!)
Inky/black/purple color
Incense, creme de cassis, licorice, and subtle wood.
Rich, full bodied, layers of concentration, high glycerin as well as tannin.
60-second finish.
93-95+pts
He'd clearly nailed his colours to the mast, along with a less locquacious, but very positive James Suckling (they do frequently agree):
Mineral, lead pencil and berry aromas
Full-bodied, silky and refined
Compact and tight, with lovely structure
Long finish
92-94 pts
You'll note the points of similarity.
But then we get the Evil Witch of the East (I don't think Parker actually said that) - Jancis Robinson:
Very exotic, sweetly floral notes - not the purest.
Strength of tannins deadens the fruit and the finish
A bit furry and over the top
For sipping not drinking.
15.5 pts
And Farr agree:
Michel Rolland advises here and the style tends to be more international than typically Margaux. In 2005 we were impressed by the modern fruit extraction but it is not overdone. Solid, with dark fruit intensity on the nose, powdery tannins. Coffee and chocolate, with a big finish.
15pts Farr Vintners April 2006
So it's the Pavie battle lines again - not quite a war of Independence (from Parker) - the US vs The Brits.
Which means you can have great fun seeing who's right (I always disagree with both) http://www.cellartracker.com/wine.asp?iWine=17747
Go back before 2000 and make sure you get 2005 (I have just those two vintages): when it's out 2006 is a must too.
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First they came for ....................
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