John Trombley
Posts: 20
Joined: 5/20/2008 Status: offline
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Dear Andrew, As Eric may tell you, I'm a font of useless knowledge about German wine, and have a fairly good idea about how it's (dis-)organized. I'm also happy to help anyone who is interested in such problems. Even CellarTracker administrators. Your summary of the problems of German nomenclature is not bad. At least as not as bad as the problem itself! (smile) I'm a sometime user of CellarTracker, but find myself going to it more and more, lately, and I'm trying to get my extensive series of tasting notes into it. Actually, they're more like Wiki articles, but not quite. By the way, one interesting thing is that the wines of Ludwig Neumayer in Austria are not in Kremstal as CellarTracker has it. Before 1995 they were part of the Donauland, but the region is now (because they are in the valley of the Traisen river) called the Traisental, and also in the village of Traisen, too. Do you need some links on this? I could supply them. Don't worry--WineBid has a bottle at auction currently and has it listed as a German Nahe wine (probably because there's a Traisen a.d. Nahe--the home, of course, of Dr. Crusius!) This means that probably you have a whole bunch of wines that have the wrong appellations in Austria, because there's been tons of changes there, too. If you want to leave it pure region Niederosterreich, that's fine, but you don't want to call this a Wachau or a Kremstal, because it really ain't, and never was, even with that confusing vom Stein. I haven't taken a gaze at the situation in Austria as a whole. By the way, as I'm sure you know, at the level of Qualitätswein/Prädikatswein in Germany, there are several levels of concentric structures. The Anbaugebeit (there used to be 13 of them, but there are a couple more now)--these are the regions, like Mosel (what you're calling Mosel-Saar-Ruwer). Then there is the Bereich, such as the Bereich Saar or the Bereich Ruwer or the Bereich Bernkastel or the Bereich Johannisberg. (You see why Mosel-Saar-Ruwer isn't a good idea anymore, but I understand that there isn't a clean fix for this one!) Each Bereich is broken up into several Großlagen (regional vineyards, too darn regional in my book, for the most part), and the Großlagen are made up of Einzellagen, which are really individual vineyard sites. (There are some small areas that are Großlagen-free and some that are Einzellagen-free, however, just to keep things interesting). However, the Einzellagen we have today are an awful amalgamation of what they were circa 35 years ago when the laws changed for the worse, and so there's a temptation to bottle individual parcellen (parcels) in the Einzellage and put that on the label, as van Volxem in the Saar and Vollenweider in the Mosel (-Saar-Ruwer) do. However, this isn't legal, exactly, unless you can get it under the radar by claiming it's a brand name. That won't work if the name was ever registered before as an Eingetragene Marke (yes, a Trademark), and that can go back a long way, and who knows if it is or not? Roman N. at v. Volxem got his hand slapped for using Pergentsknopp on a parcel-selected Scharzhofberger, and has now reverted to bottling the same stuff as a Scharzhofberger 'P'. He has no problem doing the same thing in the Braunfels with the Vols parcel, and apparently no one has gotten after Vollenweider yet. And then there's the sort of village-vineyard amalgamation called the Ortsteil. And what's a Felsentürmchen, anyway? Where was I going with this? Well, you see you need a few extra levels if you're going to accomodate all the German wines that you're going to run into. I've knocked heads several times with your current system, as you may have noticed. And you don't want to forget these stylistic nomenclatures, used more or less in an effort to clarify the situation, but of course muddied it up: classic, selection, hochgewachs. And they really haven't got done arguing yet over whether the Erste Lage wines in certain areas can be fruity-sweet. Yes, they have to be super-Spätlesen. But is this vineyard designation movement a description of quality, or a designation of geography? I haven't figured that one out yet. If it's sort of like Burgundy it's geographic, but if it's sort of like Alsace it's not quite so geographic, if you get my drift. And then there's the Fudernummer, the Fassnummer, and the Versteigerungsweine! And we're not getting into stars, bars, and the fearful Lange Goldkapsule! or the dreaded AP nummer! Then you have Tafelweine (Table Wines), and a sort of hybrid called Landwein, that can have some general designation of region and a vintage, as the Tafelweine cannot. They must just have a fantasy or maker's name that doesn't hint at a region. And, to make things fun, the regional designations are different between the Landweine and the Qualitäts/Prädikatweine. And, if you go back before 1983, you have a different concept of Eiswein--it wasn't a Prädikat in itself, so it had to be a Kabinett Eiswein or an Auslese Eiswein or something like that. And let's not go back before 1971, with its Cabinets, its Naturreine ('natural wine'), its Weinachtsweine and Dreikönigsweine and Feuerweine and Strohweine and Jungfernweine and Allerheiligensweine, and three or four or five different designations for what we now call Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslesen and who knows what else? whhoooeeee! now you see what happened to my wits! I hope no one has told you that there's actually an Alsatian wine that's made in a cellar across the Rhein in the Anbaugebeit Baden, yes, Germany, and what're you going to do with THOSE?
< Message edited by John Trombley -- 5/20/2008 9:42:04 PM >
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A votre santé, John Trombley
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