4/27/2017 - forceberry wrote: 94 points

A naturalist Chardonnay made from biodynamically grown, whole bunch-pressed grapes with a strict hands-off philosophy. Aged for 12 months in old foudres. No added sulfites. 12% alcohol.

Slightly bronze-hued honey yellow color - obviously very deep for a Chardonnay, and turning slowly deeper over the tasting. Very big, bold and expressive nose with complex and slightly funky aromas of savory apple purée, some dried lemon zest, a little bit of smoke, light wild flower tones, a hint of stone fruits and a touch of something vaguely waxy. The wine is fresh, crisp and somewhat wild on the palate with medium body and very distinctive, tangy flavors of saline minerality, tart green apples, some wild waxy funkiness, a little bit of smoke and a hint of dried lemony citrus fruits. The wine is remarkably racy with very high acidity and piercing steely minerality, making it come across as very structured, almost electric and ridiculously mouthwatering. The finish is very tangy, crisp and really long with intense and refreshing flavors of oceanic salinity, pronounced lemony citrus fruit character, a little bit of tart green apples, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of funky, waxy richness.

I guess this is a "modern" Jura, because of its non-oxidative, "ouillé" style, but this is very anti-modernist Jura as well: normally the modernist Chardonnays are just boring and show nothing that would tie them to the Jura region. This wine, however, is something very unlike any Chardonnay produced anywhere else - it shows same kind of racy, lemony character the best wines of Chablis can show, but is is also very different in that pronounced salinity and almost Alpine character. Overall the wine feels still very youthful - almost painfully so - but it starts to become quite drinkable with some breathing, as the wine settles down. However, the wine shows remarkable aging potential and I can imagine the wine is capable of getting even a higher score once it starts to show some aged complexity. This is a Chardonnay that is like Chardonnay should be. Highly recommended.